tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37898718833293664692024-02-20T22:35:28.251-08:00Home ImprovementUsable how-to information on energy efficient housingUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-41458492888748921682008-02-14T12:27:00.000-08:002008-02-14T12:32:08.508-08:00Go for the Green<b>Home Improvement Projects with Conservation Ideals</b><br /><br />Incorporating "green building" in your home improvement project is a double-edged sword well worth wielding.<br /><br />Provided you are prepared for the extra leg work and higher up-front costs than those for conventional building, the pay-off is reduced energy and maintenance costs, increased home values and environmental protection.<br /><br />"Green building" means building with sustainability, longevity and conservation in mind.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzAE0DKjA6B-gohlBnzTHTcYyNDQEZHXwLSPVXZSuax9pyEHJSu5Ca0eQom6UwAO3ASzxT1pLZTf0uI2tPzzkDRiaXNVqzUWXnwDA3vrE8F1YXY7dTp-Jg90cDmRvRBPJ9ccEhUtQtU6Y/s1600-h/plastic-deck.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzAE0DKjA6B-gohlBnzTHTcYyNDQEZHXwLSPVXZSuax9pyEHJSu5Ca0eQom6UwAO3ASzxT1pLZTf0uI2tPzzkDRiaXNVqzUWXnwDA3vrE8F1YXY7dTp-Jg90cDmRvRBPJ9ccEhUtQtU6Y/s400/plastic-deck.bmp" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5166936169169537554" border="0" /></a><br />This deck is plastic — recycled plastic — and has a longer life than wood.<br /><br />Rather than using materials that must be replaced in a relatively short period of time and techniques that gobble up energy, green building uses more durable, recycled materials, renewable products and less energy to manufacture materials. It also conserves resources during and after construction, avoids toxic materials and engages climate-and site-responsive design.<br /><br />"Definitions for building green vary somewhat. Most would include a discussion of goals aimed at efficient use of land, enhancing energy efficiency, water conservation, indoor air quality and resource conservation," says Liza Bowles, President of the Upper Marlboro, Md.-based National Association of Home Builders Research Center.<br /><br />For the past decade, the trend has focused on using alternative materials and techniques en masse in building new homes to get the most bang for the green building buck, but smaller home improvement jobs can benefit as well.<br /><br />"You have less choice when doing remodeling. You are stuck with the foundation and the framing, but with everything from replacement roofing to window replacements, there are resources," says Tracy Mumma, a program specialist at the Center for Resourceful Building in Missoula, Mont.<br /><br />NAHB's research center says green building benefits include:<br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Lower operating costs. Homes requiring less heating and cooling and using less water have lower utility bills.<br /><br /><br /></li><li>Lower maintenance. More durable materials reduce upkeep and replacement costs.<br /><br /><br /></li><li>Improved environmental quality. Attention to, say, moisture control or using low-VOC (volatile organic compounds) paints can contribute to a healthier indoor environment and ultimately a better local environment.<br /><br /><br /></li><li>Increased value. Documented lower monthly utility bills and homes that perform better and longer, enjoy increased value.<br /></li></ul><br />Experts say virtually every home improvement project lends itself to green building.<br /><br />"There are many degrees of "greenness" – from using low-VOC paints in your conventional, wood frame/sheet rock home to building with straw bale and earthen plaster," says Bill Christensen, founder of Austin, Texas-based Sustainable Sources, which helped make Austin a leader in the green building effort.<br /><br />Green home improvements can include:<br /><br /><ul><br /><li>No-VOC or low-VOC paints and finishes and less toxic adhesives.<br /><br /><br /></li><li>Ceramic tiles made from recycled windshield glass.<br /><br />"It looks like custom-made tile, so it'll have jagged corners, but when you are finished you'll have what you were looking for," says Leon A. Frechette, author of "Build Smarter With Alternative Materials" (Craftsman, $34.75), which offers green building techniques, materials and theory for more than a dozen housing components.<br /><br /><br /></li><li>Durable decking materials made from recycled plastic grocery bags, sawdust and pallet wood.<br /><br />"A lot of individuals are upset about keeping deck surfaces clean and free of flaking. This is a polymer, a maintenance-free product. You won't have to worry about staining and sealing," said Frechette.<br /><br /><br /></li><li>Carpeting and carpet padding spun from shredded plastic soda pop bottles. "You feel these things and they feels like cotton. It will blow your mind," said Frechette.<br /><br /><br /></li><li>Bamboo flooring that's harder than oak.<br /><br />"It can be harvested in four years, compared to 20 years or more for trees," says Christensen.<br /><br /><br /></li><li>A variety of shake roofing made of light-weight concrete; recycled polyvinyl chloride or steel; as well as a combination product made of wood fiber, fly ash and cement; all are designed to look like wood shake.<br /></li></ul><br />Unfortunately, the new products aren't always readily available, forcing consumers to seek out proven materials and contractors skilled in using them.<br /><br />Green product manufacturers are often reluctant to emblazon their products with the recycled symbol and face the "made-from-garbage" stigma, says Frechette.<br /><br />Home Depot, Lowes and other major retailers don't heavily stock green products because of their higher prices.<br /><br />Contractors who are schooled in building green must grapple with local building codes that often aren't green-building inclusive.<br /><br />"Get some type of education. There are books and Web sites promoting alternative materials. Contact manufacturers to get samples and check them out. Get references from contractors who have installed these products. Check the track record. Just because it's an alternative material doesn't mean it was designed for your geographical area.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-2981851620324442192008-01-14T12:12:00.000-08:002008-01-14T12:31:38.614-08:00Four Step Weatherization GuideThe (Re)Weatherization Sequence<br /><br /><b>Step 1: House Air Tightening and Systems Checkups</b><br /><ol><br /><li type="A"><b>Duct sealing and insulation.</b> If you have forced air ducts in your house, have them tested and sealed by a state certified duct-sealing contractor. Ducts should only be sealed with duct mastic, never with tape (Home Depot often carries duct mastic). While the duct sealers have their blower door set up, find out how leaky your house is, and where the leaks are. Consider installing additional return registers or pressure bypasses if you have a single return forced air duct system. After they are sealed, insulate the ducts to at least R11 (R25 is better), even if they already had an inch or two of insulation. If the system has air conditioning, put a vapor barrier on the outside of the duct insulation.<br /><br /><li type="A"><b>Air seal the house.</b> Use caulking, spray foam, plywood, sheet metal, and weather-stripping, to seal places where air moves inside from outside, and also vertically through the house. Seal around windows and doors, seal the gaps around plumbing, wiring, mechanical, and chimney from underneath the house and from the attic. Sweep attic insulation aside, clean and foam the cracks where interior and exterior walls meet the ceiling. Cover the holes where plumbing drops through the floor under the bathtub and shower. Install outlet and switch cover plate gaskets. Remember that fiberglass does not stop airflow! A dense cellulose pack will reduce infiltration. Using a blower door makes airsealing faster and more effective.<br /><br /><br />WARNING! Steps 1A and 1B. If you have any combustion appliances in your home, equipment that burns wood, pellets, gas, propane, oil, or kerosene, such as fireplace, woodstove, space heater, gas log, water heater, furnace, range or oven, etc., it is critical that you have a trained contractor perform a Worst Case Depressurization Test, or Combustion Appliance Zone Pressure Test to verify that the changes in the house have not created combustion gas backdrafting hazards. Combustion gas backdrafting can be fatal or cause long term health damage. An state certified duct sealing contractor can perform this test for you, and show you how to correct any hazards.<br /><br /><li type="A"><b>Ventilation and other systems checks.</b> A blower door test will demonstrate how tight your house actually is, and where you may have missed a leak or two while airsealing. If your house tests below .35 air changes per hour (ACH), you should install fresh air vents as well as a high quality spot ventilation bathroom fan, or, ideally, an <a href="">air-to-air heat exchanger</a> to help maintain good indoor air quality. Install quiet bath fans and make sure they are properly vented outside through the roof or wall (see the Energy Outlet handout on <a href="">bath fans</a>). Install a range hood or verify that the existing fan vents to the outside in galvanized steel parts only. Make sure the dryer vent goes completely outside, in metal duct, not plastic. Now is the time to replace knob and tube wiring, add a grounding conductor, or otherwise upgrade your electrical system. Add phone or data lines. Check for adequate attic and crawlspace ventilation. Complete any structural repairs. Make sure water pipes are freeze-protected. Check for signs of water leakage around flashing at windows, doors, and dormers. Dry out that wet crawlspace with drains or a pump, and install a 6 mil plastic ground sheet.<br /></li></ol><br /><br /><p><b>Step 2: Insulation</b><br /><br />Insulate the ceilings, floors, and walls of your house. Do uninsulated or low R-value areas first. Ultimately, you want all exterior components of the house fully insulated. Many houses are underinsulated, even if they have been “weatherized” in the past. Some contractors will attempt to persuade you that an attainable R-value is not “cost-effective”. This assertion is based on an obsolete set of assumptions.<br /><br />The Insulation Rule of Thumb: There is no such thing as too much insulation! There may be technical or financial obstacles to installing more insulation, but there is no such thing as too much.<br /><br />If you add insulation to the exterior (cool) side of a building surface, be sure unfaced insulation is used, so that the one and only vapor barrier remains next to the warm surface at the interior side of the building component. If the vapor barrier has been installed to the cold side, turn the insulation over or peel or slash the barrier. Often floor framing cavities are not completely filled, and can be added to. Additional floor insulation can be installed with wood furring or 16D nails that add depth to the framing, or with rigid foam sheets. Don’t forget to insulate cantilevered floors, or the rim joists, especially on multi-story homes. Vaulted ceilings often require rigid foam sheet insulation or added interior framing for fiberglass batts. Even insulated exterior walls can be improved by installing 1"-2" rigid foam sheets inside and re-sheetrocking. Use extruded polystyrene or polyiso foam, and foam and tape the joints for an excellent vapor barrier. Consult with the Energy Outlet for detailed insulation project assistance.<br /><br /><b>Step 3: Windows</b><br /><br /><b>Install new windows</b>. Windows are last on the building shell list because they offer the least bang for the buck of any weatherization measure, and are usually the lowest priority in terms of actual heat loss. Exceptions to this rule include jalousie windows or windows that need expensive repairs. When you buy windows, specify these options: warm-edge glazing spacer, Low E glass (set up for a heating climate), krypton or argon gas fill. These glazing options will get you a window with a U-value close to .30 (lower U is better). Optimize the characteristics of the Low E coating by using soft-coat Low E on north and west facing windows, and hardcoat Low E on south and east facing windows. The choice of frame material is purely an aesthetic and cost question, since vinyl, composite, fiberglass, and wood frames perform about the same thermally. Existing wood frame windows can often be retrofitted with double-glazed replacement sash that come with new insert jambs, available from Kolbe and Kolbe, Marvin, and Pella. Old double-hung wood windows with weights can be replaced with larger windows if you extend the new windows into the area formerly taken up by the weight pockets. Excessively large window areas, especially if they don’t face south, should be sized down when windows are replaced. You may need overhangs, awnings, or rollup shades to keep the summer sun out. Rigid foam panels can be used as very effective interior nighttime window insulation.<br /><br /><b>Step 4: Heating Appliances</b><br /><br />Install high efficiency home heating and water heating equipment, and maintain it properly.<br /><br />Install the best Energy Star equipment, and you may qualify for an state income tax credit.</p><br /><ol><br /><li type="A"><b>Sizing</b>. As you tighten and insulate your home, the amount of heat your house requires to stay comfortable will decrease. Make sure your heating contractor does an ACCA Manual J Heat Loss Calculation to establish a heating and cooling load for your house as it will be when weatherization is complete. Size all new equipment to the new reduced heating and cooling loads. <li type="A"><b>Efficiency and Safety.</b> Most pre-1990 propane, natural gas, or oil furnaces operate at less than 80% combustion efficiency, some as low as 60%! You can install a 90%+ efficient furnace or boiler and reduce your heating bill by an amount corresponding to the difference in efficiency between new and old heating units.<br /><br />WARNING! Atmospheric draft combustion appliances nearly always present the risk of backdrafting, especially if they are located indoors! Avoid using atmospheric draft appliances. Fan-forced or sealed combustion heating appliances are always safer and more efficient, and are essential for indoor installations. And, despite the fact that they are may be legal in your state, “Unvented” heating appliances should never be used indoors under any circumstances!!! (Unheated garages are not usually considered “indoors”)<br /><br /><b>Heat pumps.</b> Heat pumps allow you to improve the efficiency of an electric heating system, are available as ground source or air source models. Ground source heat pumps are amazingly efficient, but expensive to install. Ground source well systems are preferred over field systems. Energy Star air source heat pumps have an HSPF of at least 7.6, and SEER of at least 12. Air source heat pumps are available for ducted or ductless systems. Split ductless heat pump systems avoid expensive duct installation and heat loss, and are easier to retrofit. </li></ol><br /><p>Check with your local government for Energy Tax Credits and Business Energy Loans for installing high efficiency and renewable energy building systems. Your heating energy supplier will provide an energy audit of your home, and some incentives also.<br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-49421726898358772972008-01-08T13:02:00.001-08:002008-01-09T13:56:07.042-08:00Homeowners Guide to Energy Savings<p>Most of the electricity consumed in todays homes goes to operate our major appliances and heating systems, with lighting and small appliances consuming the rest. The electric energy used in our homes is often the most expensive form of energy we use. Since you pay for the amount of electricity you use, reducing your energy usage will save you money. Also the less energy we require, the less of an impact commercial electrical generation will have on our environment.</p><br /><br /><p>The tables provided in this section show the estimated average monthly energy usage, based on national averages. As consumption of electricity varies from home to home, these averages may not be accurate for everyone, but they do serve as a valuable guide. Each table shows the estimated average monthly usage in kilowatt hours (KWH) and the monthly operating costs based on a $0.05 per KWH charge. You can easily adjust the figures to reflect your costs by checking your utility bill (or contact your local utility) for your per kilowatt hour (KWH) charge and multiplying by the monthly usage figures to arrive at your costs. </p><br /><br /><h3>Understanding Kilowatt Hours</h3><br /><br /><p>Electricity is billed to customers for each kilowatt hour (KWH) used.</p><br /><br /><p>A kilowatt is 1000 watts.</p><br /><p>A kilowatt hour is 1000 watts of electricity delivered to a customer for one hour. </p><br /><br /><p>A good example is a 100 watt light bulb, left on for 10 hours: 100 watts x 10 hrs. = 1 KWH. </p><br /><br /><p>If you would like to calculate the energy usage of an appliance you can use the following formula: </p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirl_siEq7sqc2DOxcaawhWzfD0Tj3r8ZNZohNQTfYA5TtRh0-d7djhJ1Ay834LIqRXAubsgMTSB3io4l8OYwUf9wtUOX1xizlU14EZLW-BXbLouoDw8quCbcFpnO-3DqL_j1y6GwzXB3A/s1600-h/formula1.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153214252806777122" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; float: right;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirl_siEq7sqc2DOxcaawhWzfD0Tj3r8ZNZohNQTfYA5TtRh0-d7djhJ1Ay834LIqRXAubsgMTSB3io4l8OYwUf9wtUOX1xizlU14EZLW-BXbLouoDw8quCbcFpnO-3DqL_j1y6GwzXB3A/s200/formula1.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p align="center">Wattage divided by 1000 x cost per kwh = cost per hour. </p><br /><br /><strong>Air Movement and Conditioning</strong><br /><br /><table><tbody><tr><br /><td align="center"><strong>Air Movement<br />and Conditioning</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Average Wattage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Single Use<br />Costs </strong></td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly Usage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated<br />Monthly Usage<br />Costs<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Electronic air cleaner* </td><td align="center">50 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>24 hours a day </td><td align="center">$ 1.80<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Air cleaner (portable) </td><td align="center">50 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>24 hours a day </td><td align="center">1.80<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Air conditioner (Refrigeration type)<br />Room Type<br />- Bedroom*<br />- Family room****<br />Central (3-ton)<br />- Standard*<br />- High efficiency**** </td><td align="center"><br /><br /><br />900<br />1500<br /><br />5960<br />4008 </td><td align="center"><br /><br /><br />0.045<br />0.075<br /><br />0.298<br />0.200 </td><td><br /><br /><br />180 hours<br />180 hours<br /><br />450 hours/season<br />450 hours/season </td><td align="center"><br /><br /><br />8.10<br />13.50<br /><br />134.10<br />90.00<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Evaporative (swamp) cooler - 4800 cfm </td><td align="center"><br />620 </td><td align="center"><br />0.031 </td><td><br />450 hours per season </td><td align="center"><br />13.95<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Dehumidifier*** </td><td align="center">250 </td><td align="center">0.012 </td><td>126 hours a month </td><td align="center">1.57<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Fans<br />- Attic<br />- Circulating<br />- Exhaust-small<br />- Furnace (auto cycle)<br />- Furnace (cont cycle)<br />- Rollabout<br />- Window </td><td align="center"><br />375<br />88<br />200<br />500<br />500<br />171<br />200 </td><td align="center"><br />0.018<br />**<br />0.010<br />0.025<br />0.025<br />**<br />0.010 </td><td><br />150 hours<br />150 hours<br />30 hours<br />250 hours<br />720 hours<br />60 hours<br />60 hours </td><td align="center"><br />2.81<br />0.66<br />0.30<br />6.25<br />18.00<br />0.52<br />0.60<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Humidifier*** </td><td align="center">120 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>60 hours </td><td align="center">0.36<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p>* Plus cost of furnace fan. The fan should operate continuously for best results.<br /><br />** Less than a penny.<br /><br />*** Humidistatically controlled. The cost is based on the estimated appliance 'on time'.<br /><br />**** Thermostatically controlled. The cost is based on the estimated appliance 'on time'.</p><br /><br /><span style="font-size:6;"><strong>Health and Personal</strong></span><br /><br /><table><tbody><tr><br /><td align="center"><strong>Health and Personal</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Average Wattage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Single Use<br />Cost and Time<br />of Use</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly Usage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated<br />Monthly Usage<br />Costs<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Heat lamp </td><td align="center">250 </td><td align="center">$0.013 for 1 hr </td><td>Five hours </td><td align="center">$0.06<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Heating Pad* </td><td align="center">65 </td><td align="center">** for 2 hrs </td><td>Six hours </td><td align="center">0.02<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Make-up mirror </td><td align="center">25 </td><td align="center">** for 1 hr </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.01<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Electric blanket* </td><td align="center">200 </td><td align="center">** for 1 hr </td><td>240 hours </td><td align="center">2.40<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Vibrator </td><td align="center">40 </td><td align="center">** for 1 hr </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.02<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Curling iron </td><td align="center">40 </td><td align="center">** for 1 hr </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.02<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Hair clipper </td><td align="center">10 </td><td align="center">** for 1 hr </td><td>Two hours </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Hair dryer<br />- Soft bonnet<br />- Hard bonnet<br />- Hand held </td><td align="center"><br />400<br />1200<br />1000 </td><td align="center"><br />0.02 for 1 hr<br />0.06 for 1 hr<br />0.05 for 1 hr </td><td><br />Ten hours<br />Ten hours<br />Ten hours </td><td align="center"><br />0.20<br />0.60<br />0.50<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Hair rollers </td><td align="center">350 </td><td align="center">0.017 for 1 hr </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.18<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Shaving Cream Dispenser </td><td align="center">60 </td><td align="center">** for 30 sec </td><td>Two minutes per day </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Shaver </td><td align="center">14 </td><td align="center">** for 10 min </td><td>Ten minutes per day </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Toothbrush </td><td align="center">7 </td><td align="center">** for 10 min </td><td>Ten minutes per day </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Vapourizer </td><td align="center">480 </td><td align="center">0.024 for 1 hr </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.24<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Germicidal lamp </td><td align="center">20 </td><td align="center">** for 1 hr </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.01<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Massager </td><td align="center">15 </td><td align="center">** for 1 hr </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p>* Thermostatically controlled. The average cost is based on the estimated appliance 'on time'.<br /><br />** Less than a penny.</p><br /><br /><span style="font-size:6;"><strong>Home Entertainment and Workshop</strong></span><br /><br /><table><tbody><tr><br /><br /><td align="center"><strong>Home Entertainment and Workshop</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Average Wattage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Single Use<br />Costs </strong></td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly Usage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated<br />Monthly Usage<br />Cost<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Television<br />- Colour (tube type)<br /><br />- Colour (solid state)<br />- B&W (tube type)<br />- B&W (solid state) </td><td align="center"><br />350<br /><br />200<br />1.60<br />.55 </td><td align="center"><br />0.018<br /><br />0.10<br />**<br />** </td><td><br />180 hours,<br />(6 hours per day)<br />180 hours<br />180 hours<br />180 hours </td><td align="center"><br />$3.15<br /><br />1.80<br />0.50<br />1.44<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Video* </td><td align="center">27.5 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>30 hours </td><td align="center">0.04<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Hi-Fi/Stereo </td><td align="center">110 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>10 hours </td><td align="center">0.06<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Personal Computer<br />(includes monitor) </td><td align="center">150 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>60 hours<br />(2 hours per day) </td><td align="center">0.45<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Radio </td><td align="center">50 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>60 hours </td><td align="center">0.15<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Radio/Record player </td><td align="center">110 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>10 hours </td><td align="center">0.06<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Slide projector </td><td align="center">150 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>2 hours </td><td align="center">0.02<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Movie projector </td><td align="center">150 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>2 hours </td><td align="center">0.02<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Electric train </td><td align="center">15 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>10 hours </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Electric fireplace </td><td align="center">1500 </td><td align="center">0.075 </td><td>10 hours </td><td align="center">0.75<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Power tools<br />- 1/4'' Electric drill<br />- Circular saw<br />- Jig saw<br />- Table saw<br />- Chain saw<br />- Sander </td><td align="center"><br />287<br />1150<br />287<br />1380<br />1380<br />287 </td><td align="center"><br />0.014<br />0.057<br />0.014<br />0.069<br />0.069<br />0.014 </td><td><br />2 hours<br />2 hours<br />2 hours<br />2 hours<br />2 hours<br />2 hours </td><td align="center"><br />0.03<br />0.11<br />0.03<br />0.14<br />0.14<br />0.03<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p>* Plus Operation of Television.<br /><br />** Less than a penny.</p><br /><br /><span style="font-size:6;"><strong>Kitchen Appliances</strong></span><br /><br /><table><tbody><tr><br /><td align="center"><strong>Kitchen Appliances</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Average Wattage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Single Use Cost and Time of Use</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly Usage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly Usage Cost<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Dishwasher*** </td><td align="center">1200 </td><td align="center">$0.06 for 1 hr. drying unit on<br />0.028 for 1 load drying unit off </td><td>Once a day<br /><br />Once a day </td><td align="center">$ 1.80<br /><br />$ 0.84<br /><br /></td></tr><tr><td colspan="5"><strong>Range (Electric)</strong><br /></td></tr><tr><td>- Full Time Cooking* </td><td align="center">7-12kw </td><td align="center">0.05 for 1 hr. </td><td>Three times daily </td><td align="center">4.50<br /></td></tr><tr><td>- Small Surface Element* </td><td align="center">1,300 </td><td align="center">0.032 for 1 hr. medium setting </td><td>Three times daily </td><td align="center">2.93<br /></td></tr><tr><td>- Large Surface Element* </td><td align="center">2,400 </td><td align="center">0.06 for 1 hr. medium setting </td><td>Three times daily </td><td align="center">5.40<br /></td></tr><tr><td>- Oven - (non-self-cleaning)* </td><td align="center">3,200 </td><td align="center">0.05 for 1 hr. </td><td>20 hours </td><td align="center">1.00<br /></td></tr><tr><td>- Oven (self-cleaning)* </td><td align="center">3,200 </td><td align="center">.040 </td><td>20 hours </td><td align="center">0.80<br /></td></tr><tr><td>- Broiler Unit </td><td align="center">3,600 </td><td align="center">0.045 for 15 min. </td><td>One hour </td><td align="center">0.18<br /></td></tr><tr><td>- Self-Cleaning Feature* </td><td align="center">4,000 </td><td align="center">0.25 for 2 hrs. </td><td>One time </td><td align="center">0.25<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td colspan="5"><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Microwave Oven </td><td align="center">700 </td><td align="center">** for 5 min. </td><td>12 hours </td><td align="center"><br />0.42<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Roaster* </td><td align="center">1,320 </td><td align="center">0.033 for 1 hr. </td><td>Three hours </td><td align="center">0.10<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Trash Compactor </td><td align="center">400 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>30 minutes </td><td align="center">0.01<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Baby Food Warmer </td><td align="center">165 </td><td align="center">** for 5 min. </td><td>Three hours </td><td align="center">0.03<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Blender </td><td align="center">400 </td><td align="center">** for 1 min. </td><td>30 minutes </td><td align="center">0.01<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Broiler (portable)* </td><td align="center">1,500 </td><td align="center">0.02 for 30 min. </td><td>Once a week </td><td align="center">0.08<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Can Opener </td><td align="center">288 </td><td align="center">** for 15 sec. </td><td>100 times </td><td align="center">0.01<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Carving Knife </td><td align="center">100 </td><td align="center">** for 5 min. </td><td>30 minutes </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Clock </td><td align="center">2 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>24 hrs/day </td><td align="center">0.07<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Coffee Maker<br />(automatic percolator) </td><td align="center">850 </td><td align="center">0.04 for 1 hr. </td><td>Once a day </td><td align="center">1.20<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Coffee Maker<br />(automatic drip) </td><td align="center">1,500 </td><td align="center">0.07 for 1 hr. </td><td>Once a day </td><td align="center">2.10<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Egg Cooker </td><td align="center">520 </td><td align="center">** for 5 min. </td><td>Once a day </td><td align="center">0.21<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Corn Popper </td><td align="center">575 </td><td align="center">** for 15 min. </td><td>Once a week </td><td align="center">0.03<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Deep Fat Fryer </td><td align="center">1,500 </td><td align="center">0.018 for 15 min. </td><td>Once a week </td><td align="center">0.07<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Disposer </td><td align="center">500 </td><td align="center">** for 1 min. </td><td>One hour </td><td align="center">0.03<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Fondue/Chafing Dish* </td><td align="center">800 </td><td align="center">0.02 for 1 hr. </td><td>Once a week </td><td align="center">0.08<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Food Dehydrator* </td><td align="center">875 </td><td align="center">0.16 for 10 hrs. </td><td>Once a week </td><td align="center">0.64<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Fry Pan* </td><td align="center">1,100. </td><td align="center">0.028 for 1 hr. </td><td>Once a week </td><td align="center">0.12<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Grinder<br />(food or coffee) </td><td align="center">150 </td><td align="center">** for 1 min </td><td>Once a day </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Griddle* </td><td align="center">1,200 </td><td align="center">0.015 for 30 min. </td><td>Three hours </td><td align="center">0.09<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Hot Plate* </td><td align="center">1,250 </td><td align="center">0.015 for 30 min. </td><td>Three hours </td><td align="center">0.09<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Ice Crusher </td><td align="center">300 </td><td align="center">** for 5 min. </td><td>30 times </td><td align="center">0.03<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Juicer </td><td align="center">90 </td><td align="center">** for 3 min </td><td>Once a day </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Knife Sharpener </td><td align="center">100 </td><td align="center">** for 3 min </td><td>One hour </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Hand Mixer </td><td align="center">125 </td><td align="center">** for 30 min </td><td>Two hours </td><td align="center">0.01<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Standing Mixer </td><td align="center">150 </td><td align="center">** for 30 min </td><td>Three hours </td><td align="center">0.02<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Sandwich Grill </td><td align="center">1,150 </td><td align="center">0.028 for 30 min. </td><td>Three hours </td><td align="center">0.17<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Toaster </td><td align="center">1,150 </td><td align="center">** for 2 min. </td><td>Twice a day </td><td align="center">0.12<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Waffle Iron* </td><td align="center">1,100 </td><td align="center">0.014 for 30 min. </td><td>Two hours </td><td align="center">0.06<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Warming Tray </td><td align="center">140 </td><td align="center">** for 1 hr. </td><td>Three hours </td><td align="center">0.02<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Slow Cooker-Low </td><td align="center">75 </td><td align="center">0.03 for 8 hrs. </td><td>32 hours </td><td align="center">0.12<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Slow Cooker-High </td><td align="center">150 </td><td align="center">0.06 for 8 hrs. </td><td>32 hours. </td><td align="center">0.24<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Outdoor Grill </td><td align="center">1,500 </td><td align="center">0.075 for 1 hour </td><td>Four hours. </td><td align="center">0.30<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Wok Pan </td><td align="center">1,000 </td><td align="center">0.025 for 30 min. </td><td>Three hours </td><td align="center">0.15<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Meat Slicer </td><td align="center">200 </td><td align="center">** for 10 min. </td><td>30 min. </td><td align="center">0.01<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Toaster Oven* </td><td align="center">1,500 </td><td align="center">0.019 for 30 min. </td><td>8 hours </td><td align="center">0.30<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Burger Grill </td><td align="center">510 </td><td align="center">** for 3 min. </td><td>One hour </td><td align="center">0.03<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Plastic Bag Sealer </td><td align="center">58 </td><td align="center">** for 5 min </td><td>30 min. </td><td align="center">**<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Pressure Cooker </td><td align="center">1,300 </td><td align="center">0.065 for 1 hr. </td><td>Six hours. </td><td align="center">0.39<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Hot Dog Cooker </td><td align="center">1,500 </td><td align="center">** for 3 min </td><td>One hour </td><td align="center">0.08<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Crepe Maker </td><td align="center">1,000 </td><td align="center">0.025 for 30 min. </td><td>Two hours </td><td align="center">0.10<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p>*Thermostatically controlled. Costs based on estimated appliance 'on time'.<br /><br />** Less than a penny.<br /><br />*** Operating costs do not include water heating.<br /></p><br /><br /><strong>Lighting</strong><br /><table><tbody><tr><br /><br /><td align="center"><strong>Lighting</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Wattage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Light<br />Output<br />(Lumens)</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Life<br />(Hours)</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Single Use Cost and Time of Use</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly Usage<br />Cost (30 days)<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td><br />Incandescent<br /><br /></td><td align="center"><br />100<br />75<br />60<br />40 </td><td align="center"><br />1520<br />1170<br />780<br />470 </td><td align="center"><br />1,000<br />1,000<br />1,000<br />1,000 </td><td align="center"><br />0.04 for 8 hrs.<br />0.03 for 8 hrs.<br />0.024 for 8 hrs.<br />0.016 for 8 hrs. </td><td align="center"><br />1.20<br />0.90<br />0.72<br />0.48<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Compact Fluorescent<br />(including ballast) </td><td align="center"><br />18W (25)<br />13W (17)<br />9W (12)<br />7W (11) </td><td align="center"><br />1,200<br />900<br />600<br />400 </td><td align="center"><br /><br />10,000<br />10,000<br />10,000<br />10,000 </td><td align="center"><br />0.01 for 8 hrs.<br />** for 8 hrs.<br />** for 8 hrs.<br />** for 8 hrs. </td><td align="center"><br />0.30<br />0.20<br />0.14<br />0.13<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Single Fluorescent<br />(+Standard ballast)<br /><br />(+Energy-efficient ballast)<br /><br /><br />(+Electronic ballast)<br /></td><td align="center"><br />40W (54)<br />34W (49)<br /><br />40W (47)<br />34W (41)<br /><br />40W (41)<br />34W (36) </td><td align="center"><br />3,150<br />2,800<br /><br />3,150<br />2,800<br /><br />3,150<br />2,800 </td><td align="center"><br />20,000<br />20,000<br /><br />20,000<br />20,000<br /><br />20,000<br />20,000 </td><td align="center"><br />0.022 for 8 hrs.<br />0.019 for 8 hrs.<br /><br />0.016 for 8 hrs.<br />0.016 for 8 hrs.<br /><br />0.016 for 8 hrs.<br />0.014 for 8 hrs. </td><td align="center"><br />0.81<br />0.73<br /><br />0.69<br />0.60<br /><br />0.60<br />0.54<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Double Fluorescent<br />(+Standard ballast)<br /><br />(+Energy-efficient ballast)<br /><br /><br />(+Electronic ballast)<br /></td><td align="center"><br />80W (95)<br />68W (81)<br /><br />80W (86)<br />68W (74)<br /><br /><br />80W (74)<br />68W (62) </td><td align="center"><br />6,300<br />5,600<br /><br />6,300<br />5,600<br /><br />6,300<br />5,600 </td><td align="center"><br />20,000<br />20,000<br /><br />20,000<br />20,000<br /><br />20,000<br />20,000 </td><td align="center"><br />0.038 for 8 hrs.<br />0.033 for 8 hrs.<br /><br />0.034 for 8 hrs.<br />0.030 for 8 hrs.<br /><br />0.030 for 8 hrs.<br />0.025 for 8 hrs. </td><td align="center"><br />1.14<br />0.99<br /><br />1.02<br />0.90<br /><br /><br />0.90<br />0.75<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p>Figures for single and double fluorescent lighting are for standard T12 - 48 inch lamps.<br /><br />** Less than one penny</p><br /><br /><span style="font-size:6;"><strong>Outside Electrical</strong></span><br /><br /><table><tbody><tr><br /><br /><td align="center"><strong>Outside Electrical</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Average Wattage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Single Use<br />Cost and Period<br />of Use</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly Usage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated<br />Monthly Usage<br />Costs<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Post light (incandescent) </td><td align="center">100 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>300 hours </td><td align="center">$1.50<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Post light (mercury)* </td><td align="center">90 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>300 hours </td><td align="center">1.35<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Post light<br />(sodium vapour)* </td><td align="center">70 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>300 hours </td><td align="center">1.05<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Yard light (flood or spot) </td><td align="center">100 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>300 hours </td><td align="center">1.50<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Christmas lights<br />45 bulbs (3 strings)<br />15 watt </td><td align="center">675 </td><td align="center">$0.034 </td><td>42 hours </td><td align="center">1.42<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Snow melting cable<br />- 100' Gutter<br />- 4' x 70' Sidewalk<br />- 10' x 50' Driveway </td><td align="center"><br />700<br />11200<br />20000 </td><td align="center"><br />0.035<br />0.560<br />1.00 </td><td><br />Ten hours<br />Ten hours<br />Ten hours </td><td align="center"><br />0.35<br />5.60<br />10.00<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Snow blower </td><td align="center">1200 </td><td align="center">0.060 </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.60<br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Septic tank aerator </td><td align="center">300 </td><td align="center">0.015 </td><td>30 hours </td><td align="center">0.45<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Garage door opener </td><td align="center">350 </td><td align="center">0.017 </td><td>3 open and closes per day </td><td align="center">0.05<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Garden tools<br />- Edger<br />- Hedge trimmer<br />- Lawn mower </td><td align="center"><br />480<br />288<br />1200 </td><td align="center"><br />0.024<br />0.014<br />0.060 </td><td><br />Two hours<br />Two hours<br />Two hours </td><td align="center"><br />0.05<br />0.03<br />0.24<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Outdoor grill </td><td align="center">1500 </td><td align="center">0.075 </td><td>Four hours </td><td align="center">0.30<br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Illuminated house number </td><td align="center">15 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.01<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Porch or wall light </td><td align="center">75 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.04<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Bug light </td><td align="center">100 </td><td align="center">** </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.05<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Stock tank heater </td><td align="center">1000 </td><td align="center">0.050 </td><td>720 hours </td><td align="center">36.00<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Brooder </td><td align="center">750 </td><td align="center">0.037 </td><td>720 hours </td><td align="center">27.00<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p>* Includes ballast wattage.<br /><br />** Less than a penny.</p><br /><span style="font-size:6;"><strong>Refrigerators and Freezers</strong></span><br /><table><tbody><tr><br /><br /><td align="center"><br /><h3>Refrigerator/Freezer*</h3></td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated<br />KWH<br />Per Month</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly<br />Usage Cost<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td colspan="3" align="center">STANDARD INSULATION LEVELS<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Top Freezer Models - Automatic Defrost<center>14 - 16 cu. ft.<br />17 - 18 cu. ft.<br />19 - 21 cu. ft.</center></td><td align="center"><br />142<br />151<br />144<br /></td><td align="center"><br />$7.10<br />7.55<br />7.20<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">Side-By-Side Models - Automatic Defrost<br />17 - 18 cu. ft.<br />19 - 20 cu. ft.<br />21 - 22 cu. ft.<br />23 - 24 cu. ft. </td><td align="center"><br />142<br />154<br />167<br />182 </td><td align="center"><br />7.10<br />8.35<br />9.10<br />7.28<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">Top Freezer Models - Manual Defrost<br />12 cu. ft.<br />13 cu. ft.<br />14 cu. ft.<br />15 cu. ft. </td><td align="center"><br />83<br />98<br />93<br />71 </td><td align="center"><br />4.15<br />4.90<br />4.65<br />3.55<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td colspan="3" align="center">HIGH EFFICIENCY or HIGHER INSULATED MODELS<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">Top Freezer Models - Automatic Defrost<br />14 - 16 cu. ft.<br />17 - 18 cu. ft.<br />20 - 22 cu. ft.<br /><br />Top Freezer Models - Manual Defrost<br />15 - 17 cu. ft. </td><td align="center"><br />110<br />118<br />117<br /><br /><br />80 </td><td align="center"><br />5.50<br />5.90<br />5.85<br /><br /><br />4.00<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center"><br /><h3>Freezers*</h3></td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated<br />KWH<br />Per Month</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly<br />Usage Cost<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">Chest Freezers - Manual Defrost<br />15 cu. ft.<br />20 cu. ft.<br />23 cu. ft.<br />25 cu. ft.<br /></td><td align="center"><br />87<br />104<br />122<br />118 </td><td align="center"><br />4.35<br />5.20<br />6.10<br />5.90<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">Upright Freezers - Manual Defrost<br />15 - 16 cu. ft.<br />18 - 21 cu. ft. </td><td align="center"><br />97<br />100 </td><td align="center"><br />4.85<br />5.00<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">Upright Freezers - Automatic Defrost<br />15 - 16 cu. ft.<br />18 - 21 cu. ft. </td><td align="center"><br />157<br />163 </td><td align="center"><br />7.85<br />8.15<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p>* Energy usage estimated are based on the average between high and low energy use from studies, currently available. Per month energy usage may vary from the averaged figures provided depending on age, condition and the location of your fridge or freezer. Energy usage per month for some of the larger models shows a decrease because larger models are usually better insulated than smaller models. Models with accessories such as ice makers and water dispensers will have higher energy usage.</p><br /><span style="font-size:6;"><strong>Thermostatically Controlled Water Heater</strong></span><br /><br /><table><tbody><tr><br /><br /><td align="center"><strong>Usage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Gallons of Hot Water</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Single Usage<br />Operating Cost<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly<br />Usage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated<br />MonthlyUsage<br />Cost (30 days)<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Tub bath </td><td align="center">10 - 15 </td><td align="center">12¢ - 20¢ </td><td>30 baths </td><td align="center">$3.60 - 6.00<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Shower </td><td align="center">8 - 12 </td><td align="center">10¢ - 15¢ </td><td>30 showers </td><td align="center">3.00 - 4.50<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Baby bath </td><td align="center">5 </td><td align="center">6¢ </td><td>30 baby baths </td><td align="center">1.80<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Meal Preparation </td><td align="center">3 </td><td align="center">3¢ </td><td>60 meals </td><td align="center">1.80<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Dishwashing - hand </td><td align="center">5 </td><td align="center">6¢ </td><td>90 times </td><td align="center">5.40<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Dishwashing - automatic </td><td align="center">10 - 15* </td><td align="center">12¢ - 20¢ </td><td>30 loads </td><td align="center">3.60 - 6.00<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Clothes washing - automatic </td><td align="center">18 </td><td align="center">23¢ </td><td>30 loads </td><td align="center">6.90<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p>* Pre-rinsing with hot water will increase the hot water usage.</p><br /><span style="font-size:6;"><strong>Utility and Laundry Appliances</strong></span><br /><br /><table><tbody><tr><br /><br /><td align="center"><strong>Utility-Laundry</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Average Wattage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Single Use<br />Cost and Time<br />of Use</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated Monthly Usage</strong> </td><td align="center"><strong>Estimated<br />Monthly Usage<br />Costs<br />(5¢ per KWH)</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Clock </td><td align="center">2 </td><td align="center">$*** </td><td>Continuous </td><td align="center">$0.08<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Floor waxer/cleaner </td><td align="center">350 </td><td align="center">0.017 for 1 hr </td><td>Three hours </td><td align="center">0.05<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Incinerator </td><td align="center">605 </td><td align="center">0.060 for 2 hrs </td><td>240 hours </td><td align="center">7.20<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>100 watt bulb </td><td align="center">100 </td><td align="center">*** for 1 hr </td><td>Ten hours </td><td align="center">0.05<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Sewing Machine </td><td align="center">100 </td><td align="center">*** for 1 hr </td><td>Five hours </td><td align="center">0.03<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Sump pump </td><td align="center">85 </td><td align="center">*** for 1 hr </td><td>Four hours </td><td align="center">0.02<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Vacuum cleaner </td><td align="center">650 </td><td align="center">0.016 for 30 min </td><td>Two hours </td><td align="center">0.06<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Water pump </td><td align="center">1080 </td><td align="center">0.054 for 1 hr </td><td>Two hours </td><td align="center">0.11<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Electric clothes dryer*<br />- Regular fabric*<br />- Permanent press* </td><td align="center" valign="top"><br />4800 </td><td align="center"><br />0.19 for 1 load<br />0.15 for 1 load </td><td><br />15 loads<br />25 loads </td><td align="center"><br />2.85<br />1.50<br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Gas clothes dryer** </td><td align="center">210 </td><td align="center">0.01 for 1 load </td><td>25 loads </td><td align="center">0.25<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Radiant picture heater </td><td align="center">400 </td><td align="center">0.02 for 1 hr </td><td>720 hours </td><td align="center">14.40<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Space heater </td><td align="center">1300 </td><td align="center">0.065 for 1 hr </td><td>60 hours </td><td align="center">3.90<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Washer<br />- Automatic<br />- Wringer type </td><td align="center"><br />500<br />280 </td><td align="center"><br />0.012 for 1 load<br />** for 1 load </td><td><br />30 loads<br /><br />30 loads </td><td align="center"><br />0.36<br /><br />0.21<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Iron (hand)* </td><td align="center">1000 </td><td align="center">0.025 for 1 hr </td><td>Five hours </td><td align="center">0.13<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td>Iron (mangle)* </td><td align="center">1525 </td><td align="center">0.038 for 1 hr </td><td>Five hours </td><td align="center">0.19<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p>* Thermostatically controlled. The average cost is based on the estimated appliance 'on time'.<br /><br />** Electric motor only; gas cost extra.<br /><br />*** Less than a penny.</p><br /><span style="font-size:6;"><strong>Water Beds</strong></span><br /><br /><table><tbody><tr><br /><br /><td rowspan="3" align="center"><strong>Room<br />Temperature</strong> </td><td colspan="6" align="center"><strong>Water Bed Temperature</strong><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><strong>80° F</strong> </td><td colspan="2" align="center"><strong>85° F</strong> </td><td colspan="2" align="center"><strong>90° F</strong><br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">KWH/Mo. </td><td align="center">Cost/Mo.* </td><td align="center">KWH/Mo. </td><td align="center">Cost/Mo.* </td><td align="center">KWH/Mo. </td><td align="center">Cost/Mo.*<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">80° F </td><td align="center">0 </td><td align="center">$ 0.00 </td><td align="center">34 </td><td align="center">$ 1.70 </td><td align="center">68 </td><td align="center">$ 3.40<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">75° F </td><td align="center">34 </td><td align="center">1.70 </td><td align="center">68 </td><td align="center">3.40 </td><td align="center">101 </td><td align="center">5.05<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">70° F </td><td align="center">68 </td><td align="center">3.40 </td><td align="center">101 </td><td align="center">5.05 </td><td align="center">135 </td><td align="center">6.75<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">65° F </td><td align="center">101 </td><td align="center">5.05 </td><td align="center">135 </td><td align="center">6.75 </td><td align="center">169 </td><td align="center">8.45<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">60° F </td><td align="center">135 </td><td align="center">6.75 </td><td align="center">169 </td><td align="center">8.45 </td><td align="center">203 </td><td align="center">10.15<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">55° F </td><td align="center">169 </td><td align="center">8.45 </td><td align="center">203 </td><td align="center">10.15 </td><td align="center">236 </td><td align="center">11.80<br /><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><br /><td align="center">50° F </td><td align="center">203 </td><td align="center">10.15 </td><td align="center">236 </td><td align="center">11.80 </td><td align="center">271 </td><td align="center">13.55<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p>* Based on an estimated average cost of 5¢ per KWH.</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Note:</strong> Your energy consumption will be less during warm months. If your waterbed is not well covered with bedding, the energy usage (operating cost) could be up to 40% more. Extra insulation, such as foam insulation around the frame or heavy bedding, can help lower these costs.</p><br /><br /><br /><p>While it is often said that energy conservation starts at home, it can be difficult to decide where to start. The homeowners guide to energy savings is designed to help you get started with over 100 energy saving tips for the entire home. Many of the ideas are inexpensive and easy to do. Some cost nothing at all.</p><br /><br /><p>One of your first steps for conserving energy is to ensure that the correct levels of insulation have been installed in your homes walls, ceilings and basement. Check with your local building authorities for recommended levels for your area. If your insulation levels are too low you should look at upgrading them as soon as possible. Proper insulation not only saves on heating costs but makes for a more comfortable home and helps reduce summer time cooling costs.</p><br /><br /><br /><strong>APPLIANCES</strong><br /><br /><br /><p><strong>Clothes Dryers</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Keep the lint filter clean. A dirt lint filter restricts air flow.<br /></li><li>Operate the dryer with a full load whenever possible.<br /></li><li>Check the dryer vent twice yearly to make sure it isn't plugged or restricted.<br /></li><li>Match the dryer temperature settings to the type of fabric and the size of load.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Clothes Washers</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Wash full loads or use lower water level settings for smaller loads.<br /></li><li>Use hot water only when necessary. Modern detergents work well in warm and cold water.<br /></li><li>Use a cold water rinse cycle.<br /></li><li>Do not over wash clothes. Delicate clothes don't need as long a wash cycle as dirty work clothes.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Dishwashers</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>When possible wash full loads only.<br /></li><li>Use the shortest wash cycle possible.<br /></li><li>Use the 'energy saver' cycle if available. If your dishwasher doesn't have this function open the door at the end of the rinse cycle and let the dishes air dry.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Other Appliances</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Using an electric frying pan rather than a range element uses half the energy.<br /></li><li>Electric kettles are quicker and use less energy than boiling water on the stove.<br /></li><li>A slow cooker uses one third the energy to cook a stew that an oven does.<br /></li><li>A toaster is three times as efficient as the range oven in making toast.<br /></li><li>Pressure cookers cook five to ten times as fast as an oven.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Microwaves</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Using microwaves for cooking vegetables or warming foods is very energy efficient, while using it to defrost frozen foods is an energy waster.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Refrigerators</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Unplug fridge and clean the dust from the back or bottom coils twice a year.<br /></li><li>Make sure there is at least a 8 mm (3 inch) air space between the back of the fridge and the wall to allow for air circulation.<br /></li><li>Turn off your automatic ice maker. It is far more efficient to make ice in ice cube trays.<br /></li><li>Locate the fridge away from any heat producing sources, warm air flows, or sunlight.<br /></li><li>Cool foods before putting them in the fridge and cover all liquids to stop evaporation.<br /></li><li>Keep the fridge door gasket clean and check the seal yearly for tightness. If seals are worn replace.<br /></li><li>Defrost fridge and freezer regularly.<br /></li><li>Adjust the fridge temperature setting to between 2° and 4° (36° to 38°).<br /></li><li>Adjust the fridge/freezer temperature to -15° to - 18° (4° to 0°)<br /></li><li>Do not put a fridge or freezer in cold areas such as a porch or garage because they do not operate as efficiently.<br /></li><li>Thawing frozen foods in the fridge reduces spoilage and helps cool the fridge.<br /></li><li>Avoid keeping the fridge door open any longer than necessary.<br /></li><li>When buying a new fridge or freezer compare energy usage information.<br /></li><li>Turn off the butter conditioner, its actually a little heater inside your fridge.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Ranges (Stoves)</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Match pots and pans to stove element size for best heat transfer.<br /></li><li>If you use a minimum amount of water in covered pans, foods cook faster and taste fresher.<br /></li><li>Use reflector pans (foil) under electric stove elements to reflect heat and increase efficiency.<br /></li><li>Use lids on pots whenever possible.<br /></li><li>Ovens can be turned off 15 to 20 minutes before cooking time is complete and food will continue to cook without using more electricity.<br /></li><li>Preheat oven only when required. Most foods can be cooked without preheating.<br /></li><li>Defrost food beforehand, it takes 50% more cooking time if frozen.<br /></li><li>Check that the stove door gasket is tight. Adjust or replace as required.<br /></li><li>Don't peek by opening the oven door. Sneak previews are energy wasters.<br /></li><li>If possible use a pressure cooker, they greatly reduce cooking time.<br /></li><li>Small appliances like toasters, broilers, microwaves and kettles are more efficient for small jobs than a stove.<br /></li><li>Use the self-cleaning feature right after regular cooking. Less energy will be required to reach cleaning temperature as the stove is already warm.<br /></li><li>When using the oven cook several items at a time.<br /></li><li>If buying a new range consider a self-cleaning oven. Self-cleaning ovens use less energy for normal cooking because of higher insulation levels.<br /></li><li>Use your microwave for cooking whenever possible.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Block Heaters</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Put a timer on the circuit for your car block heater. To be effective it only needs to be on two to three hours before the car is started.<br /></li><li>Plug your in-car heater into the same timer as your block heater.</li></ol><br /><br /><p align="center"><strong>DOMESTIC HOT WATER HEATING</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Set the thermostat on your water heater to 49° (120°). If your dishwasher has a booster this is fine, if not set the thermostat at 60° (140°).<br /></li><li>Upgrade your hot water tanks insulation levels with an insulation kit or glass fibre insulation wrap.<br /></li><li>In cool basements or unheated areas make sure hot water lines are insulated.<br /></li><li>Drain about 4.5 litres (1 gallon) every two to three months from the drain tap to remove sediment and mineral build-up from the bottom of the tank.<br /></li><li>If a gas or oil fired unit is used have it serviced at least once a year.<br /></li><li>Repair any leaking faucets.<br /></li><li>Install low flow shower-heads and faucet aerators to reduce hot water usage.<br /></li><li>Showers normally use less hot water than baths.<br /></li><li>Let bath water stand in the tub until it has cooled and released its heat into the house.<br /></li><li>Turn your water heater off when you go on vacation.<br /></li><li>Install a heat trap loop or anti-convection valve on your hot and cold water lines at the water heater.<br /></li><li>If replacing a water heater buy an energy efficient unit or consider alternatives such as a heat-pump or integrated water/space heating units.</li></ol><br /><br /><br /><p align="center"><strong>HOME DRAFTPROOFING</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Locate and seal any air leaks in the 'building envelope' (walls, ceilings, floors and basements).<br /></li><li>Check the weatherstripping on all windows and doors. Replace if worn or damaged.<br /></li><li>Caulk the inside of all window and door frames.<br /></li><li>Remove exterior wall baseboards, caulk and replace.<br /></li><li>Caulk from the inside and outside, any penetrations (electrical, plumbing, vents, etc.) through the building envelope.<br /></li><li>Install interior or exterior storm windows.<br /></li><li>Install foam draft enders on all wall electrical outlets.<br /></li><li>Seal around ceiling fixtures and caulk where the wires enter.<br /></li><li>Check your dryer and exhaust vent hoods. If the flappers do not close properly, repair or replace.<br /></li><li>Seal around plumbing stacks and the chimney (Use a high temperature sealant for the chimney).<br /></li><li>Weatherstrip and insulate interior attic access doors.</li></ol><br /><br /><p align="center"><strong>LIGHTING</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Open the drapes and use natural daylight where possible.<br /></li><li>Turn off all lights when not in use (make one of your children the family light cop).<br /></li><li>Where possible replace incandescent lights with fluorescent lights. Fluorescent lights produce four times as much light per watt, last ten times as long and cost one third as much to operate.<br /></li><li>Use task lighting wherever possible.<br /></li><li>Keep light fixtures and bulbs clean to maintain efficiency.<br /></li><li>Use the right type and size of light bulb for each lighting job. A 150 watt bulb is more efficient and produces more light than two 75 watt bulbs.<br /></li><li>Install solid state dimmers in areas where full lighting is not always required.<br /></li><li>If decorating use light colored walls which reflect more light.<br /></li><li>Use motion sensors on outside lights.<br /></li><li>Use occupancy sensors in workrooms or laundry rooms.<br /></li><li>Reduce lighting wattage to the minimum required.<br /></li><li>Where possible consider Halogen bulbs which use half the energy of an incandescent light and last two to four times as long.<br /></li><li>Consider high pressure sodium (HPS) lamps for exterior lighting. HPS lamps use seventy per cent less energy than a standard floodlight and last up to eight times as long.<br /></li><li>Consider a timer to turn lights on and off while you are out for an evening or on vacation.<br /></li><li>Use low wattage Christmas or decorative lighting.</li></ol><br /><br /><p align="center"><strong>SPACE HEATING</strong></p><br /><br /><br /><p><strong>General</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Reduce your daytime thermostat setting to 20° (68°)<br /></li><li>Reduce your nighttime thermostat setting to 17° (63°). Use the nighttime settings if no one is home during the day.<br /></li><li>Make sure the thermostat is located away from any heat producing sources.<br /></li><li>Buy and install an automatic setback thermostat.<br /></li><li>Close off and reduce the temperature to 10° (50°) in unused rooms.<br /></li><li>Reduce nighttime heat loss by closing drapes or insulated shutters.<br /></li><li>Open drapes on south windows during the day to gain free solar heat.<br /></li><li>Keep exhaust fans in good operating condition and minimize use during the heating season.<br /></li><li>Be sure that fireplace and woodstove dampers seal properly and are tightly closed when not in use.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Forced Air - Gas</strong> *(Always turn off the power before making any adjustments)</p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Keep the furnace filter clean. A dirty filter reduces air flow and makes the fan work harder.<br /></li><li>Keep all air registers clean and free of obstructions.<br /></li><li>If required oil the motor and fan axle ports twice yearly.<br /></li><li>If the fan is belt driven adjust the belt tension so that when depressed in the middle there is only 20 to 30 mm (3/4 to 1 1/4 inches) of slack.<br /></li><li>Have your furnace serviced yearly.<br /></li><li>Check the accuracy of your thermostat annually.<br /></li><li>Insulate hot air ducts which pass through unheated spaces and seal all ductwork seams with duct tape.<br /></li><li>If practical use plastic warm air deflectors to direct warm air into the room.<br /></li><li>Open combustion air ducts should be fitted with a thermostat controlled, fail-safe electric damper.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Forced Air - Oil</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Check the flame through the peep hole while the furnace is running. If black smoke is visible on the tip of the flame call in a serviceman for adjustment.<br /></li><li>When the furnace is not operating use a flashlight to check the fire box for soot buildup. If there is a soot buildup arrange for an adjustment and servicing.<br /></li><li>Clean and oil the hinges on the barometric damper and be sure it swings freely.<br /></li><li>Change your oil filter annually.<br /></li><li>Have the unit properly serviced prior to the start of each heating season.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Hot-Water Space Heating</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Check fluid levels in the boiler regularly.<br /></li><li>Check expansion tank and insure that there is an air space to allow for expansion.<br /></li><li>Bleed the air from all radiators and check periodically.<br /></li><li>Insulate any hot water pipes running through unheated areas.<br /></li><li>Keep radiators clean and free from any obstructions.</li></ol><br /><br /><p><strong>Electric Space Heating</strong></p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>Clean heating elements regularly.<br /></li><li>Check that the deflectors are open and aiming the heat into the room.<br /></li><li>Insure that radiators are not blocked by furniture or drapes.<br /></li><li>Check each zone thermostat yearly for accuracy.</li></ol>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-30036427226878515932008-01-09T13:34:00.000-08:002008-01-09T13:45:39.894-08:00Energy Efficient Housing Construction: Ventilation and Conservation<h2>Ventilation</h2><br /><br /><h3>Air Leakage</h3><br /><br /><p>Older homes rarely suffered from a lack of fresh air. Air leaking in through cracks and holes in older homes and poorly built new homes can allow the entire house air volume to change more than once every hour. Air also leaks in to replacing air which is used by the chimneys and exhaust appliances or through upper storey windows (because hot air rises). Energy efficient homes do not have such air leakage problems. Homes today can be built so airtight that the entire volume of the home would take many days to be replaced. This would, however, lead to poor indoor air quality causing stuffiness, indoor pollution, odour buildup and high humidity problems.</p><br /><br /><h3>Natural Ventilation</h3><br /><br /><p>Although energy efficient homes stay cooler in summer because of high insulation levels, natural ventilation should be provided with opening windows or screened doors. On one and one-half or two-storey homes, windows opening on different levels will promote natural ventilation by convection on warm summer days and nights. Openings on different sides of one-level homes will permit cross-ventilation. There are times ventilation may be required in the winter as well. Sunny warm winter days (with a low sun angle) may cause short overheating problems in a well-insulated, properly oriented home - a fast and easy solution is to simply open a window or two for a short period of time.</p><br /><br /><h3>Mechanical Ventilation Systems</h3><br /><br /><p>A much more reliable and effective approach to use in today's world of well insulated and air<br />sealed homes is some type of controlled mechanical ventilation system. With a mechanical ventilation system occupants are able to control the ventilation rate, and have the ability to keep air pollutant levels as low as possible while increasing oxygen levels and avoiding the problems associated with uncontrolled air leakage. There are a variety of systems available, from exhaust only types to continuous, balanced mechanical ventilation systems.</p><br /><br /><p>Balanced ventilation systems are recommended because they exhaust stale indoor air and replace it with an equal amount of fresh outside air, thereby preventing any pressure differences from occurring. These systems should be designed to exhaust warm, stale air from major pollutant sources, such as bathrooms, kitchens, hallways and laundry rooms, while distributing fresh incoming air equally throughout the rest of the house.</p><br /><br /><h3>Balanced Mechanical Ventilation Systems</h3><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI0REmY0Hvtr3XgPZxE3tLF9HJWkC3viu7ERI0cb3P3ZUIlIHyo2FRNA1k4Vc_LKsRMmcXjEnc5b-ve_Sk15v4yyXVSdf1Z15ieEkYzGsdcWyrPbKMtJsuCkHz4dQV7_PxucUO2frlMJU/s1600-h/heatven2.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI0REmY0Hvtr3XgPZxE3tLF9HJWkC3viu7ERI0cb3P3ZUIlIHyo2FRNA1k4Vc_LKsRMmcXjEnc5b-ve_Sk15v4yyXVSdf1Z15ieEkYzGsdcWyrPbKMtJsuCkHz4dQV7_PxucUO2frlMJU/s200/heatven2.bmp" alt="Balanced Ventilation Systems" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153595383909657970" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Non-Heat Recovery Systems are one type of balanced mechanical ventilation system. These systems use separate fans to exhaust stale house air and supply an equal amount of fresh outside air. This maintains the pressure balance within the house. It should be a system which exhausts and supplies air all over the home with separate ductwork or through a forced air system. Ventilation rates should be maintained between one quarter to one third air changes per hour (ACH).</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3>Heat Recovery Ventilation Systems</h3><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRLlIDctjScIRuS_1bvLVVjrL95JuvjMA3eVVus4lT7TROGT9D3mpDki1bkg9yAYJ26RT8wCk-UgE7FvYPxfdubfaeVU3uLjg3roXaauVj_iuxEhInMAQCv3iysu_ps9VkdQ_KAiaL7rQ/s1600-h/heatexch.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRLlIDctjScIRuS_1bvLVVjrL95JuvjMA3eVVus4lT7TROGT9D3mpDki1bkg9yAYJ26RT8wCk-UgE7FvYPxfdubfaeVU3uLjg3roXaauVj_iuxEhInMAQCv3iysu_ps9VkdQ_KAiaL7rQ/s200/heatexch.bmp" alt="Heat Recovery Ventilation Systems" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153595388204625282" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Heat Recovery Systems are another example of a balanced mechanical ventilation system. They exhaust stale air and supply an equal amount of fresh air. The two streams of air are passed through the core of the heat exchanger, where heat from the exhaust air is passed to the cooler incoming air. Fresh air supplied to the rooms of the house has already been pre-heated, reducing the problems with cold drafts and the extra expense of pre-heating cold incoming air.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p>Since the stale, humid air that has to be exhausted contains heat, reclaiming some of that heat can reduce the energy loss while pre-heating cold incoming air. An air to air heat exchanger (also called a Heat Recovery Ventilator or HRV) is commonly used in energy efficient housing to extract heat from the outgoing air.</p><br /><br /><p>Currently available units are capable of extracting 70% to 80% of the heat from the exhausting air. Tying a heat exchanger into the return air duct of a forced-air heating system works well. The incoming fresh air is distributed evenly to all living spaces by the heating system duct work. An alternative for housing using non-forced air heating systems is to have the air-to-air heat exchanger separately ducted into each room. Either way the fresh air will mix well and, if a ventilation rate of one quarter to one third the total house volume is maintained each hour, humidity, odours and indoor air pollution will not be problems.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYrh9GOHZO0UU78s6vreql6FPOxitRl-940UmguHphMnP-i2AfntGUJCu1w08BPltFJodFWGOWSMzV7wSaX8KQ5pIK2APDxdrJBtAgfkZf83-CzrH8cPaQUUT3FCnlKJfPGcdMkhDq2E/s1600-h/hrv.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYrh9GOHZO0UU78s6vreql6FPOxitRl-940UmguHphMnP-i2AfntGUJCu1w08BPltFJodFWGOWSMzV7wSaX8KQ5pIK2APDxdrJBtAgfkZf83-CzrH8cPaQUUT3FCnlKJfPGcdMkhDq2E/s200/hrv.bmp" alt="Heat Recovery Ventilator" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153595388204625298" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Drawing air from bathrooms through a heat exchanger instead of exhausting it outdoors also saves heating energy in winter months. As mentioned in the construction section 'Roofs and Ceilings', exhaust ducts should be vented down interior walls to the floor joist space where they could easily be attached to a heat exchanger. Excessively humid air can cause an ice buildup in a heat exchanger but most commercially made models have a defrost cycle to control ice buildup.</p><br /><br /><p>Because of potential grease and lint problems, range hoods or clothes dryers should not be exhausted through an air-to-air heat exchanger. Recirculating range hoods with good quality filters will eliminate having to exhaust air from that source.</p><br /><br /><h2>Water Conservation</h2><br /><br /><br /><h3>Water Use</h3><br /><br /><p>The importance of conserving water relates in two ways to energy efficient housing. Energy is used to heat water so lowering hot water use saves energy. Energy is also used to gather, treat and supply water, so lowering total consumption will also save energy. Rates paid for urban water and sewage services are rapidly escalating to meet the energy costs of processing, supply and disposal. In a rural situation, lowering total water use means less wear and tear on pumping equipment, lower electrical costs, lower treatment costs and fewer sewage capacity problems.</p><br /><br /><h3>Water Volume Conservation</h3><br /><br /><p>Although a lot of energy is used to heat water, the bulk of the total water volume a home requires is used for flushing toilets. In the typical household the toilet accounts for 43% of water usage, showers and bathing use 29%, laundry and dishwashing 19%, drinking and cooking 5% and 4% for other (car washing, lawn watering, etc.) New 1.6 gallon (6 litre) toilets can reduce toilet water usage by 60 to 80% . Composting toilets are also available which use hardly any water at all. Water reduction devices such as tap aerators, flow restrictors and low volume showerheads also help reduce water usage when washing or showering. Common sense can be applied to find other ways of lowering water usage - habits changed, wastage reduced, etc. In areas where water shortages may occur through drought or an unpredictable (or expensive) supply, conservation is doubly important.</p><br /><br /><h3>Domestic Water Heating</h3><br /><br /><p>In an average home, a large percentage of the energy purchased is used for domestic hot water heating. Domestic water heaters can use electricity, natural gas, propane, wood, coal and even solar energy as a heat source/fuel. Gas burning and electric hot water tanks are available in tank (storage) types and tankless (demand) types. Standard gas-fired water heaters have seasonal efficiencies of 50% to 60%. More efficient gas units with electronic ignition, induced draft fans and improved heat exchangers offer efficiencies of 75 to 80% but cost more. Electric units are more efficient but electricity is more expensive than gas so on going operating costs are higher. Locating water heaters close to the points of use and insulating supply lines will help improve efficiency. Point-of-use electric and fuel fired units which are installed directly in the kitchen or bathrooms work well but flow rates (2 to 4 gallons per minute) are low. Some hot water heating systems (usually boilers or combined systems) can also be used to produce domestic hot water in companion hot water tanks.</p><br /><br /><p>Using hot water efficiently also relates to efficient appliance operation. The hot water tank temperature need only be set at 120° (50°). Most new dishwashers have electric heating elements to boost water temperatures. Only full loads of laundry or dishes should be washed. Water level controls in clothes washers should be utilized for smaller loads and cold or warm water can be used for many cycles. Hot water use can further be reduced by installing flow restricting devices such as tap aerators, flow restrictors and low volume showerheads.</p><br /><br /><p>Preheating the cold water supplied to the hot water heater is another way of lowering energy consumption. Preheating can be done with a dark coloured tank placed so as to be solar heated in a sunspace, greenhouse or in front of a south-facing window.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Bc0uxSovSxpdhFScHUz7GWGoWRwUcp02vxF-ghIlapIMGaRTRiOj8qn0eIdWCojf-D-haRZ22USD52HY38_KbpFoOCbE1Tg_nlM879fXX99Q_O-zD5yvTu_Kc6vI42A5ZBYVE19ZY9g/s1600-h/087.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Bc0uxSovSxpdhFScHUz7GWGoWRwUcp02vxF-ghIlapIMGaRTRiOj8qn0eIdWCojf-D-haRZ22USD52HY38_KbpFoOCbE1Tg_nlM879fXX99Q_O-zD5yvTu_Kc6vI42A5ZBYVE19ZY9g/s200/087.gif" alt="Solar Water Preheating" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153595392499592610" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Gray water heat recovery systems which can preheat incoming cool water are also available but are not approved for usage in all areas.</p><br /><br /><p>Domestic solar water heating systems are a proven technology which can make a significant contribution to the hot water requirements of the average family. A wide variety of solar domestic hot water systems are available. Modern solar water heaters will now work when the outside temperature is well below freezing and are protected from overheating on hot, sunny days. Many models also have their own built-in, back-up heater which can meet all of a consumer's hot water needs - even when there is no sunshine.</p><br /><br /><br /><h2>Electrical</h2><br /><br /><br /><h3>Electrical Energy Use</h3><br /><br /><p>Electricity can account for one-third of the energy dollars a homeowner spends. The amount of energy may only be one-tenth of the total but, because electrical energy is more expensive per unit, it can be a significant part of your energy bill. Appliance operation and lighting accounts for most of the electrical consumption in the average home.</p><br /><br /><h3>Lighting</h3><br /><br /><p>The use of electric lighting is a necessity in cold climates because natural light is in short supply in the winter. However, lighting can be designed for efficiency. Matching light output to requirements, locating light sources properly and using efficient fixtures are all points to consider in lighting design and layout.</p><br /><br /><p>When planning the layout of spaces and rooms, consider the functions and place the lighting accordingly. Work areas require more intense light levels than relaxation areas. Individual lamps may work better than a single ceiling source in bedrooms. Use highly efficient fluorescent light sources in task areas (like the kitchen, laundry or workshop). Use timers, sensors and dimmer switches to add flexibility, safety and security to your system. When available, natural light should be utilized through proper window layout.</p><br /><br /><p>Exterior lighting should be carefully planned as well. Avoid an excess - but do maintain a safe level. The lighting intensity (and positioning) should be at an adequate level to prevent accidents. Motion detectors or timers can be used to turn lights on and off as required and can substantially reduce energy usage and operating costs.</p><br /><br /><h3>Appliance Selection and Use</h3><br /><br /><p>Appliances such as refrigerators, freezers, washers, dryers and stoves consume a large portion of the electricity you buy. Buyers of new major appliances should check for energy usage labels to help choose products which use less energy. Look for labels which state in kilowatt hours per month the amount of energy an appliance will consume under normal usage. Potential buyers can save money by checking energy consumption totals when comparing similar models of appliances.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h2>Maintenance</h2><br /><br /><br /><p>Regular maintenance of the systems in an energy efficient home is the most important point in keeping that home energy efficient. All appliances and heating equipment will operate longer, have less problems, and use less energy if properly cared for. On a notepad, or in a small scribbler-type book, routine maintenance or service (as pointed out in appliance manuals) can be recorded. The date, type of service, costs involved, time taken, or any number of points can be noted. It then becomes a good reference and convenient reminder for routine maintenance. Some major maintenance points include:</p><br /><br /><ul><br /><br /><li>Heat distribution systems rely on an unimpeded movement of air. Keep duct work, fans and filters clean and make sure grilles, registers or convectors are not blocked by furniture or drapes.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li><li>The heat source should be serviced frequently during the heating season. Furnace units require filter cleaning monthly, motor lubrication twice yearly and regular visual checks on the blower drive belt condition, tightness and alignment. Hot water systems, using a boiler, rely on a circulating pump which should be lubricated twice yearly. The venting pipes and chimney connections should also be checked periodically for tightness or any signs of leakage or rust spots.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li><li>Wood space heaters or stoves should be checked periodically for tightness of connections and joints. As well, a thorough chimney cleaning is required periodically to reduce creosote deposit buildup. The frequency will depend on the type of wood burned and amount of use. You can monitor creosote deposits by occasionally looking in the chimney.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li><li>If your home utilizes solar energy, keep south-facing glass clean, absorbing surfaces dusted and mass floors uncluttered. If any ducts, fans, vents or thermostats are incorporated to move passively heated air then keeping those parts clean and air flow unimpeded is important.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li><li>Some energy efficient homes rely on window insulation to lower heat loss at night. Keep the edge seals clean on interior window insulation units. Regular lubrication of hinges, latches and operators may be required for exterior movable panels.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li><li>The domestic hot water heater should be drained every two or three months to remove sediment from the tank. Proper water treatment and filtering, if the water supply is questionable, will help prevent scale or sediment formation in the hot water tank.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li><li>Duct work used in ventilating the home should be kept clean. Dampers on exterior outlets should be adjusted so that closure is positive. Air-to-air heat exchangers should be cleaned regularly as should any auxiliary air filters installed in the system.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li><li>Major cooking, storage and cleaning appliances will operate more efficiently and last much longer if regularly maintained and operated as specified in service manuals. Clean reflective surfaces on stoves, heat exchanger coils on fridges and freezers, and replace filters on a regular basis.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li><li>Before purchasing major appliances or heating and ventilating equipment, consider some basic questions and facts that may affect your decisions. Buy from a reputable manufacturer or dealer, understand any warranties supplied, and find out about service, installation, and part availability. If possible compare each units efficiency and energy usage to insure the best overall performance. Be sure electrical, gas, and other hook-ups in your home will be adequate to handle the appliance load.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li><li>Read and make sure you understand installation, operating, and maintenance instructions. Establish whether the dealer will be installing and testing the device. Confirm a delivery date with the supplier and be on hand to supervise installation and testing. Remember to fill out any warranty forms, and to read, understand, and safely store all operating manuals.<br /><br /></li></ul>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-34053311051517700182008-01-09T13:04:00.000-08:002008-01-09T13:33:44.337-08:00Energy Efficient Housing Construction: Heating<h2>Heating Systems</h2><br /><br /><p>An energy efficient home by definition has very little heat loss because of high insulation levels and airtight construction. This leads to two problems: finding a properly-sized heat source and providing adequate ventilation to maintain indoor air quality.</p><br /><br /><p>Except for extremely cold periods, a properly designed and constructed energy efficient home can sometimes gain almost enough daily heat from 'waste' sources such as the heat given off by lights, people and appliances. During sunny, cold days solar energy gains also contribute to reducing the heating load. These heat sources are often called 'internal gains'.</p><br /><br /><p>Modern control systems such as programmable thermostats can further help to reduce heating energy consumption.</p><br /><br /><h3>Sizing the Heating System</h3><br /><br /><p>Heating equipment in a home must be capable of maintaining an interior temperature of 68 to 72° F (20 to 22°) during the heating season. Heating equipment is generally oversized for most homes, but is even worse if the home is an energy efficient home. This leads to frequent on/off operation reducing both efficiency of fuel use and service life of heating equipment.</p><br /><br /><p>A heat loss calculation is required to determine the heating system required. It should have a capacity of no more than 10% in excess of the calculated requirement. Installing the smallest capacity heating equipment to meet the loads will save both energy and money. Calculation of total home heat loss is generally done by heating contractors. Contractors inexperienced in understanding low energy house design and heat loss, however, may still result in drastic over sizing. A simple heat loss calculation method is provided in this section.</p><br /><br /><h3>Isolating The Heating System</h3><br /><br /><p>If a fuel burning furnace, boiler and/or hot water heater is required, building an airtight enclosure (mechanical room) around the appliances can help control chimney heat loss. Separate combustion and fresh air supplies feed into this room. No previously heated air is used by the fuel burning appliances and cold outside air is prevented from entering other areas of the home. This isolated room must be insulated and sealed from the rest of the home. Water pipes and heat supply ducts should also be insulated.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifIqP6s6wss3ya2sf3awPu-4iWwcDRXdMJxBrx6yIjbbmymzlKuEkqUE137DkFG8B0RgmVIrrVYylr9l5TGahDpyK3KIQssEhWruyeVXa2J3nnYapc9ikch3nkZhL-ERjK4o3FLqaiF9o/s1600-h/081-02.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifIqP6s6wss3ya2sf3awPu-4iWwcDRXdMJxBrx6yIjbbmymzlKuEkqUE137DkFG8B0RgmVIrrVYylr9l5TGahDpyK3KIQssEhWruyeVXa2J3nnYapc9ikch3nkZhL-ERjK4o3FLqaiF9o/s200/081-02.bmp" alt="Isolating The Heating System" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153588164069633218" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Calculating Heat Loss</h3><br /><br /><p>Calculating the heat loss from a home is quite simple. The heating requirement will be highest when the outside temperature is lowest and there is no solar gain. A cold winter night is when the heating load will be greatest. Heat flows out through all the building surfaces including walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw04GXLkCKd5hyPrZC-Amoo-lL_P-igUiUpOQbOJA5ehVoYIBDmWlY0-AqlGd1c9csA03rV885ySrvUvGeB__Erj0yJID7EtqKwcEy01XX0z1MiclF68MexUsXTMUwv4KC-YWqwXTymmM/s1600-h/081-01.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw04GXLkCKd5hyPrZC-Amoo-lL_P-igUiUpOQbOJA5ehVoYIBDmWlY0-AqlGd1c9csA03rV885ySrvUvGeB__Erj0yJID7EtqKwcEy01XX0z1MiclF68MexUsXTMUwv4KC-YWqwXTymmM/s200/081-01.bmp" alt="Building Heat Loss Areas" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153588164069633234" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Heat loss through each surface can be calculated using the following equation:</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsU44ii_Rz-XRN-P7dhJD4eyCFAjHFNyDrFCSYYHQbDbCCpKfxEwAcwCsls3hBcKKd7c6B4whjHumCOa49Q_kUkaPT5v7ss7m7np-bUtx2o3515ygD96IehA0aacEBoJEfksXz-8evHYo/s1600-h/form-2.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsU44ii_Rz-XRN-P7dhJD4eyCFAjHFNyDrFCSYYHQbDbCCpKfxEwAcwCsls3hBcKKd7c6B4whjHumCOa49Q_kUkaPT5v7ss7m7np-bUtx2o3515ygD96IehA0aacEBoJEfksXz-8evHYo/s200/form-2.bmp" alt="Heat Loss Formula" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153588168364600546" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Heat is also lost through infiltration and exfiltration - air leakage. This heat loss can be calculated using:</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmaJEagW1pDqlEFsRdeWhl2t0b5cuWT-pQxNooBMFKnpmS0r-1gPh_AXwMRaYY8GZ277qNbP26e8uHpEuTAtJ9SFya6kaGn0b39E35UKX6VowyD0gdMMKTkxAmRqgWcgjxg4EtroparLs/s1600-h/form-1.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmaJEagW1pDqlEFsRdeWhl2t0b5cuWT-pQxNooBMFKnpmS0r-1gPh_AXwMRaYY8GZ277qNbP26e8uHpEuTAtJ9SFya6kaGn0b39E35UKX6VowyD0gdMMKTkxAmRqgWcgjxg4EtroparLs/s200/form-1.bmp" alt="Air Leakage Formula" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153588172659567858" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Note: change the constant 0.36 to 0.018 Imperial units.</p><br /><br /><p>There are also a number of sources of heat gain in a typical house. Not only do the occupants give off heat, appliances and lights contribute significantly to home heating. Each person can provide about 75 watts of heating energy while 200 or 300 watts are available from appliances (like freezers, ranges, refrigerators, etc). The average home therefore provides 500 or more watts daily of the total energy required for space heating.</p><br /><br /><a name="back"></a><br /><br /><p>An example heat loss <a href="">calculation is shown</a> using Plan 13 from Energy Efficient House Plans post. Plan 13 is a 1,920 square foot (178 sq. metres) two level, rectangular bungalow. If this house was to be built in the Red Deer (Alberta, Canada) area, the outside heating design day temperature is - 26° F (-33° C). A common inside temperature is 68° F (20° C) - the difference between them is 94° F (53° C). Design day temperatures and heating degree days information for your locale is usually available from your local weather office. A <a href="">short list is provided</a> as an example of January design temperatures and degree days for various Canadian cities.</p><br /><br /><p>The first set of equations is used to calculate the heat loss from each of the seven surfaces (substitute the areas, R-values and the temperature difference for each surface from your plan). The air leakage heat loss is next calculated using the second equation. The building air volume is 16,775 cubic feet (475 cubic metres) and an air change rate of one-third (1/3 of the house air is replaced every hour with fresh air) can be used in the equation (a typical rate for a well-built, energy efficient home). Substitute the house volume from your plan into the equation. Using the same temperature difference, the total air leakage heat loss is calculated and added to the surface heat loss figures. Subtracting the heat gain average of 500 W results in a total space heat requirement of 8200 W for this example (8.2 kW or about 28,000 btu/hr).</p><br /><br /><p>There are a wide variety of computer software programs available which can be used to more accurately calculate building heat loss. These programs require a detailed breakdown of each building component and complete area weather data. Most of the programs available require a considerable learning curve and are often not practical unless you do a lot of heat loss calculations, are a house designer or are designing a complex solar building.</p><br /><br /><p>The efficiency of the heat source must be taken into account when selecting it. In the example, an 8.2 kW heat source would be needed (28,000 btu/hr). If one chooses a 100% efficient electric heating source, the exact figure calculated above can be used to size equipment. Gas furnaces range from 70% to 80% efficient (measured seasonally - over an entire year of operation). Divide the heat load (8.2kW) by the system efficiency (0.70) to obtain the 'bonnet' size of 11.7kW (40,000 btu/hr) necessary to provide 8.2kW. Gas-fired furnace and boiler units with efficiencies of 90% to 95% are also available but are usually produced in large output sizes and are more expensive.</p><br /><br /><br /><h2>Heating Systems - Forced Air</h2><br /><br /><h3>Forced Air Distribution Systems</h3><br /><br /><p>Homes incorporating forced-air heating systems are very efficient at distributing heat around a home, preventing stagnation of air and moving heat from different sources to the overall space. They also work well with mechanical ventilation systems. The central heat source could be a fuel-fired furnace. Unfortunately the smallest sizes usually available are in the 50 to 60,000 Btu/hr range (18 kW ) and this heating capacity is often much too large for an energy-efficient home. Using such a large heat source is inefficient in terms of fuel consumption. For example, a 50% oversized furnace will use 20% more fuel in heating the same space than a correctly sized unit.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdD_ZBltUXhr3aVvUX0lPWs-6GDiCGrFjU77op_9AFj0JGba85uC7pp6MOSPDMf_uu3JcHkTNCZ-Gby8H9kQSBPoPM35QTTldK2DEynf9oOe9HuNE7sVrtNGxyv3hmE3QF-M7AOK2DhTE/s1600-h/080-01.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdD_ZBltUXhr3aVvUX0lPWs-6GDiCGrFjU77op_9AFj0JGba85uC7pp6MOSPDMf_uu3JcHkTNCZ-Gby8H9kQSBPoPM35QTTldK2DEynf9oOe9HuNE7sVrtNGxyv3hmE3QF-M7AOK2DhTE/s200/080-01.bmp" alt="Forced-Air Heating System" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153588172659567874" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Good heat distribution, air movement, filtering capability, humidity control and low maintenance are some of the advantages with a properly designed and installed forced-air heating system.</p><br /><br /><p>A forced-air distribution system works well if a home receives abundant solar energy. Since passively heated spaces can easily overheat when the window area is too large or if there is not enough mass to absorb and store the solar energy, having continuously circulating air with the forced-air distribution fan running at a slow speed helps prevent overheating. Passively heated air is distributed to all the spaces in the home, not just those on the south side.</p><br /><br /><h3>High Efficiency Gas Furnace</h3><br /><br /><p>High efficiency (condensing) forced-air gas furnaces offer efficiencies of 90% or better. These units use electronic ignition, induced draft fans and condensing heat exchangers. Ductwork and installation is similar to a standard furnace with the exception of the chimney and condensate drain. Condensing furnaces require a drain pipe connected to a floor drain to allow condensation (water) from the heat exchanger to drain. A standard chimney is not required because the exhaust air temperature is reduced to the point that high temp plastic pipe can be used as an exhaust vent out of a side wall.</p><br /><br /><p>The diagram shows a fresh air duct from outside, ducted directly into the cold air return. Combustion air is separately ducted from the exterior to the front of the furnace. Note that both air ducts are insulated. Although not shown, an air to air heat exchanger should be installed to maintain indoor air quality.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCVSk0S2683DNR4Ec34wYenh6CtJnni8afM_zDkznAa_wdLhHlCHCG1c4kyeK_UILgLBXLjBXPOM_eUsR3YboDVtBcCjf1iIi_C9K0j4_XHHC1O4N3zP1izxDFS_Vk1IQ3-dHfnMTNN5M/s1600-h/heat01.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCVSk0S2683DNR4Ec34wYenh6CtJnni8afM_zDkznAa_wdLhHlCHCG1c4kyeK_UILgLBXLjBXPOM_eUsR3YboDVtBcCjf1iIi_C9K0j4_XHHC1O4N3zP1izxDFS_Vk1IQ3-dHfnMTNN5M/s200/heat01.bmp" alt="High Efficiency Furnace" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153590113984785682" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Radiator (Fan Coil Unit)</h3><br /><br /><p>A good heating solution for an energy-efficient house is to use the advantages of a forced air system (such as good air and heat distribution, filtering capability, low maintenance) and add a small auxiliary heat source to it. This could be an electric heating element, a hot water heated coil unit, a heat pump or simply a separate wood or electric unit providing heat that the system picks up and distributes via the forced air system.</p><br /><br /><p>This example shows how hot water heating can be combined with a forced air system. Hot water from a boiler is circulated through a radiator placed in the ducting of a forced air system. A fan forces the air through the radiator where the heat is picked up and distributed to the entire house. The duct work design is the same as any forced air system.</p><br /><br /><p>An air to air heat exchanger helps to maintain indoor air quality by suppling pre-heated fresh air to the cold air return, which is then distributed to the rest of the house by the forced air system.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH6nJVimCNF6kf0d7LzZDa6fnCDXu4gdz5BlVTkYRTWehyphenhyphenBOvhgIi-a7GJ1zBDrHzjvwulnAPdMhYDOVaa0QOiUBpntQD78cmWt_XMSbCnCWm5KYsp90x81gvmr-471vILiQzYc8wVnJI/s1600-h/heat03.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH6nJVimCNF6kf0d7LzZDa6fnCDXu4gdz5BlVTkYRTWehyphenhyphenBOvhgIi-a7GJ1zBDrHzjvwulnAPdMhYDOVaa0QOiUBpntQD78cmWt_XMSbCnCWm5KYsp90x81gvmr-471vILiQzYc8wVnJI/s200/heat03.bmp" alt="Fan Coil Unit" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153590118279752994" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><h2>Heating Systems - Hydonic Systems</h2><br /><br /><br /><h3>Hydronic Heating Systems</h3><br /><br /><p>Hot water (hydronic) heating systems usually consists of a boiler and a heat distribution system. This distribution system shows baseboard radiators. A wide variety of radiator types are available. Hot water is supplied directly to the radiators and returns to the boiler by way of a separate line. An expansion tank provides a cushion of air for heated water to expand into if pressure builds up in the system. An insulated fresh air duct provides combustion air directly to the boiler.</p><br /><br /><p>Because hydronic systems have no air movement an air to air heat exchanger is used to maintain indoor air quality and transfer heat from the exhaust air to the incoming fresh air supply. Fresh air is supplied (individual ducts) to each room while exhaust air is removed from the kitchen, bathrooms, hallways and laundry rooms. Two separate ducts (intake and exhaust) are installed through the floor header area and must be at least 12 feet (4 m) apart to prevent cross-contamination.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNJaWW9a7eCuhY3x0DLnpOsz63CtGuFk4nkS12BpD9RkbEpeSvyYW-XGBpyyENZ99fohTb2lQznXk44FBzCzYtYqrE_N08yC7bzxLV8pXOqYJlWwhDVT0RER4P7CPWrz3KCfbsGPBOufg/s1600-h/heat02.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNJaWW9a7eCuhY3x0DLnpOsz63CtGuFk4nkS12BpD9RkbEpeSvyYW-XGBpyyENZ99fohTb2lQznXk44FBzCzYtYqrE_N08yC7bzxLV8pXOqYJlWwhDVT0RER4P7CPWrz3KCfbsGPBOufg/s200/heat02.gif" alt="Hydronic Heating System" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153590122574720306" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Radiant Floor Heating Systems</h3><br /><br /><p>Radiant floor hot water heating systems work well in an energy efficient home. Hot water is distributed through water pipes installed in the floor. The layout and distribution of pipes is determined by the building heating requirements. Insulation is necessary under basement floors to help reduce heat loss to the surrounding earth. A reflective material and Insulation are recommended for all floors to maintain heat transfer in the desired direction (usually upward).</p><br /><br /><p>With this type of heating system, a balanced mechanical ventilation system which exhausts stale air and supplies fresh air separately (preferably to every room) is essential to maintain indoor air quality. Air to air heat exchangers (also called 'Heat Recovery Ventilators') are recommended for energy efficient homes.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvfZF0Ql5W0B27XC2pys1RJULLBc26-tLukA404lxHHWYWKzeUELvVU9KSIHCNDB-62YNvfRy0NpzeVFm0A4WFLkJ9HONvdslC3oCSUz5g9ZpL88Gmo0YppZKrzop_UKtxYN8UJSv9oPU/s1600-h/heat04.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvfZF0Ql5W0B27XC2pys1RJULLBc26-tLukA404lxHHWYWKzeUELvVU9KSIHCNDB-62YNvfRy0NpzeVFm0A4WFLkJ9HONvdslC3oCSUz5g9ZpL88Gmo0YppZKrzop_UKtxYN8UJSv9oPU/s200/heat04.gif" alt="Radiant Floor Heating" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153590126869687618" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><h2>Heating Systems - Other Systems</h2><br /><br /><br /><h3>Electric Systems</h3><br /><br /><p>Since chimneys are a source of air leakage, electrical heating systems have merit in that no chimney is required. Although electricity is a higher priced fuel, its increased efficiency and minimal capital cost combined with the small required output in an energy efficient home make it a potential alternative.</p><br /><br /><p>This system uses an electric heating element placed in a forced air system This combines the benefits of forced air and a small heating system to match the heating load of an energy efficient house. There are also a number of radiant electric (ceiling or floor) panel systems available for home heating.</p><br /><br /><p>Fresh air from the heat exchanger is distributed throughout the house by the forced air system.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZiSiT-fwCr44rkVDfFt19JnOYvyCgbc6ZA-aw2bt9bZ-7vFT_P3B3OqVK1bbtduTwuLiqwjtcwXepEjxL4SxT89GvlhDJC1mum1RW5L3d438_9Dy-JTmsO5ronmlbKlTZLYKCa98vq0U/s1600-h/heat05.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZiSiT-fwCr44rkVDfFt19JnOYvyCgbc6ZA-aw2bt9bZ-7vFT_P3B3OqVK1bbtduTwuLiqwjtcwXepEjxL4SxT89GvlhDJC1mum1RW5L3d438_9Dy-JTmsO5ronmlbKlTZLYKCa98vq0U/s200/heat05.bmp" alt="Electric Heating" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153590126869687634" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Heat Pumps</h3><br /><br /><p>Heat pumps transfer heat by circulating a refrigerant (gas) through an evaporation- condensation cycle, similar to a refrigerator. Winter heating and summer cooling are both handled by a single system. Heat pumps can operate using water, ground or air as the heat source. These systems use electricity to extract heat and under normal operating conditions will produce at least three times more heat energy (or cooling) than they use in electrical energy.</p><br /><br /><p>This diagram shows an air to air heat pump system with forced air delivery. During the winter cycle, heat is extracted from the outside air and released into the house. In summer, heat is extracted from air inside the house and dumped outside, thereby cooling the house. One potential problem with air base heat pump systems is that they use more energy than they produce if outside air temperatures drop below 50° (10°).</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtfPUee_UaefwYyh87QNrdcqBgX6bMhyphenhyphenvbdXQYHMIRFw1tnZ9MKziTVoNirvRf1T2YV6QCZnRAymNca17v1xM7GSdRh7mXa41gI5Eu1X6zXO8359owryYLSKjbUEVJ7qeiMMSMeGceXho/s1600-h/heat06.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtfPUee_UaefwYyh87QNrdcqBgX6bMhyphenhyphenvbdXQYHMIRFw1tnZ9MKziTVoNirvRf1T2YV6QCZnRAymNca17v1xM7GSdRh7mXa41gI5Eu1X6zXO8359owryYLSKjbUEVJ7qeiMMSMeGceXho/s200/heat06.bmp" alt="Heat Pumps" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153590500531842402" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Combined Systems</h3><br /><br /><p>Combined systems are now being offered which provide both space heating and domestic hot water. Systems are available which use fossil fuels, heat pumps or electric resistance heating sources to provide domestic hot water and space heating from one unit. Available with smaller output ranges these units should work well with an energy efficient home.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-52658160522464276622008-01-09T12:20:00.000-08:002008-01-09T12:43:42.492-08:00Energy Efficient Housing Construction: Roof and and Ceilings<h2>Roof Construction</h2><br /><br /><p>Most homes built in cold climates have a sloped roof surface while the interior ceiling can reflect the roof slope, follow a different slope, or can be flat. Because heated air does tend to rise, the recommended insulation levels for ceilings is usually higher than for walls. A complete, well-sealed air/vapour barrier is essential at the ceiling level, but because of light fixtures, plumbing vents and chimneys, can be difficult to install. The air/vapour barrier must be sealed around the potential 'holes' in a ceiling, regardless of the type of roof or ceiling construction. The obvious first step in design is to eliminate as many of these potential problems as possible before they occur in construction.</p><br /><br /><h3>Air Sealing</h3><br /><br /><p>The electrical wiring, the various junction boxes, and ceiling outlets create numerous opportunities for breaks in an otherwise continuous ceiling air/vapour barrier. Much can be done to eliminate some of these potential breaks. Using interior wall-mounted fixtures are examples of alternatives. If wiring and outlets are required in the ceiling, using special polyethylene air/vapour boxes or isolating the air/vapour barrier are methods which can be used to maintain the continuity of the air/vapour barrier.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_JkOuFckSwTgrsK0PxdjKkH7quq8-_SxLRc2odhkrGBUufRU2vK_02iBWzYX-h_uuNZQJLRmr10QJW1_5ryvpdL45ffRjdM98W4rHcDfRxDY8682Kj2VtHNccu50FJ4T7NxM9uqVtlEA/s1600-h/071-02.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_JkOuFckSwTgrsK0PxdjKkH7quq8-_SxLRc2odhkrGBUufRU2vK_02iBWzYX-h_uuNZQJLRmr10QJW1_5ryvpdL45ffRjdM98W4rHcDfRxDY8682Kj2VtHNccu50FJ4T7NxM9uqVtlEA/s200/071-02.bmp" alt="Ceiling Air/Vapour Barrier Protection" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153576065146760242" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTdodIP0z5iuwud0AOBJJPoUh25fxAiO4dCuqUJsjHi1IUxb4CUNxuTRwzCTA4XU3rJgIagJgDmIxsmUxIywMM8P3sUpHpnAa9jYH0jRk2Rtp7k2WndWEKaTyxUlFq2sXRBKW_gmNbMu8/s1600-h/072-02.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTdodIP0z5iuwud0AOBJJPoUh25fxAiO4dCuqUJsjHi1IUxb4CUNxuTRwzCTA4XU3rJgIagJgDmIxsmUxIywMM8P3sUpHpnAa9jYH0jRk2Rtp7k2WndWEKaTyxUlFq2sXRBKW_gmNbMu8/s200/072-02.bmp" alt="Exhaust Fan Venting" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153576069441727554" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Ceiling mounted exhaust fan installations also cause problems. Firstly, because of the difficulty in sealing around them and secondly because the built-in dampers do not seal well and let warm air leak out. They usually vent through the attic so leaking warm air can cause condensation problems.</p><br /><br /><p>If possible, exhaust fans should only be installed on interior walls with ducts routed down the wall and out the floor joist space. This prevents cold air from infiltrating in through the duct pipes.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p>Plumbing stacks and chimneys are necessary 'punctures' in the ceiling of a home. The ceiling air/vapour barrier can be well sealed to plumbing stacks and vents but the pipes must be securely fastened so that expansion and contraction does not break the seal. An expansion joint, placed in the warm interior, can accommodate pipe movement so that it does not affect the ceiling joint.</p><br /><br /><p align="center"><strong>Sealing Plumbing Stacks and Chimneys</strong></p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXG1r3TxJk6KM-XfLBuzCffptxBwYQ33YMxzN9s2REL50rwsmw8I9XM4AK6CAxITMvj5jl-xehBGfLmP0xkavrmSbpnd-dGcamquf3WuYELZbyJaNPFt0p_XjqHirZVejlxjpDFDXvaRs/s1600-h/072-01.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXG1r3TxJk6KM-XfLBuzCffptxBwYQ33YMxzN9s2REL50rwsmw8I9XM4AK6CAxITMvj5jl-xehBGfLmP0xkavrmSbpnd-dGcamquf3WuYELZbyJaNPFt0p_XjqHirZVejlxjpDFDXvaRs/s200/072-01.bmp" alt="Air/Vapour Barrier Around Plumbing Stack" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153576069441727570" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgnTFLN0Mv0DpDlqTopnuDn0q_md1qTI8Ztieb9rRXMXIk3k9qQMSQB2qip3Kw8xmBzmh7iEDkyq7v0_SkIgzrOTjL4xEcQUoOozlnnq7dUS87l6q1m9WEH761QcYfYwwidLBaNwXH5o/s1600-h/072-03.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGgnTFLN0Mv0DpDlqTopnuDn0q_md1qTI8Ztieb9rRXMXIk3k9qQMSQB2qip3Kw8xmBzmh7iEDkyq7v0_SkIgzrOTjL4xEcQUoOozlnnq7dUS87l6q1m9WEH761QcYfYwwidLBaNwXH5o/s200/072-03.gif" alt="Air/Vapour Barrier Around Chimneys" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153576073736694882" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Metal firestops, properly insulated and sealed are needed to control air leakage around chimneys. Again, by making the proper design decisions, the number of stacks, vents and chimneys may be reduced.</p><br /><br /><p>Many homes have an exterior door in their ceiling - an attic access hatch. It is best if the hatch is eliminated from the interior and placed on an outside gable end or through an unheated garage if possible. If not, make sure that the attic hatch door is well insulated, weatherstripped and secured to eliminate air leakage and heat loss.</p><br /><br /><h2>Roofs and Ceilings</h2><br /><br /><br /><h3>Flat Ceilings</h3><br /><br /><p>The use of flat ceilings and truss rafters is a common North American building practice. This type of construction leaves an adequate depth in the attic space for loose fill or batt insulation except at the edge over the exterior walls. Modified types of truss rafters can be used to increase the depth at this point.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH3NGlLgddM-1nNqLr9M7MCg6G6jrZLUO5kYn9jWhwNRU3Pwf8NuAS2bvK_4XWMUZ7dDn-4F64q1WdZLz_4C5ZGMdkbCzMLex9d-4OpGOHGx5UIP9WKZ1veOZZoOh3-sVKH4z1u1zxkI0/s1600-h/073-01.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH3NGlLgddM-1nNqLr9M7MCg6G6jrZLUO5kYn9jWhwNRU3Pwf8NuAS2bvK_4XWMUZ7dDn-4F64q1WdZLz_4C5ZGMdkbCzMLex9d-4OpGOHGx5UIP9WKZ1veOZZoOh3-sVKH4z1u1zxkI0/s200/073-01.gif" alt="Roof Trusses" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153576078031662194" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Maintaining adequate attic ventilation is important. For every 300 ft² of ceiling area, there must be 1 ft² of free ventilation area provided by soffit and roof or gable end vents (a 300:1 ratio - 300 m² of ceiling area vented by 1 m² of vent). This ventilation ensures any water vapour that does find its way above the insulation will be carried out of the space.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Y8ujceQ-h6Qk5tfQuj5gahOadNWazwYnR15nJmO8oIsscr9zz95ohA89Y0lG1zypOHN9iRl3XW_YoMzLwqawyH3sZF6WvKVWmTktakral0r4HU5z4msTZFp1E9-asDU6c8nFNE4slaQ/s1600-h/073-02.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Y8ujceQ-h6Qk5tfQuj5gahOadNWazwYnR15nJmO8oIsscr9zz95ohA89Y0lG1zypOHN9iRl3XW_YoMzLwqawyH3sZF6WvKVWmTktakral0r4HU5z4msTZFp1E9-asDU6c8nFNE4slaQ/s200/073-02.gif" alt="Interior Partitions" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153578427378773122" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Using truss rafters allows the ceiling air/vapour barrier to be installed in one piece. Because the trusses span from exterior wall to exterior wall, the interior partitions can be installed after the ceiling is sealed and covered. However, if partitions must be installed before the ceiling polyethylene is applied, an extra air/vapour barrier strip has to be added to maintain continuity. Any joints must be sealed and must occur over solid backing such as ceiling joists or partition wall top plates. Isolating the air/vapour barrier with strapping is an option which provides protection against tears and provides a space for electrical wiring installation.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3>Sloped Ceilings</h3><br /><br /><p>There are three methods of building well-insulated and sealed sloped ceilings. One method is to incorporate a wide joist or flat truss which will leave sufficient space for the insulation and ventilation.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNIbr2RVNnf6jK6AiNhqYdhIqY-JDPUf5UKqzgL7X2H4ym-IoZLEarABzozIDVR0mOUE22LQKVGN9R-zWVMn7MhmgaN1dUWv_OoWJ_aYBpHDjppdxqsl2Ek0X-UakLrRSvwBH9LQBcrGE/s1600-h/074-03.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNIbr2RVNnf6jK6AiNhqYdhIqY-JDPUf5UKqzgL7X2H4ym-IoZLEarABzozIDVR0mOUE22LQKVGN9R-zWVMn7MhmgaN1dUWv_OoWJ_aYBpHDjppdxqsl2Ek0X-UakLrRSvwBH9LQBcrGE/s200/074-03.gif" alt="Sloped Truss Ceiling" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153578431673740434" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Sloped Truss Ceilings</h3><br /><br /><p>Another method used for sloped ceilings is to use a scissor truss, which has a flatter bottom slope than top. This type of ceiling is then insulated and sealed in the same method as was discussed for 'Flat Ceilings'. To attain an R-40 value ( RSI-7) a minimum depth of at least 16 inches (400 mm) is required.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0eOllq_0210FaNRSCfMzyjbJ9SB8ITgNJJc4DERqXU2dYPlrQSZYvhYxxVW-uasN-fMCeRlFAJUoLm2ck4fxdQj7yrx1rOk4blwraoOcLpD_rg91u5lfKsT1VC5EdMoSixm07fZIRUkw/s1600-h/074-01.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0eOllq_0210FaNRSCfMzyjbJ9SB8ITgNJJc4DERqXU2dYPlrQSZYvhYxxVW-uasN-fMCeRlFAJUoLm2ck4fxdQj7yrx1rOk4blwraoOcLpD_rg91u5lfKsT1VC5EdMoSixm07fZIRUkw/s200/074-01.gif" alt="Scissor Truss" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153578431673740450" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Strapped Sloped Joist Ceiling</h3><br /><br /><p>Strapping the ceiling is the third way of providing a good ceiling insulation level. An isolated air/vapour barrier results. This construction method utilizes 2 x 12 inch (38 x 286 mm) roof joists. At least two thirds of the insulation value must be outside the polyethylene air/vapour barrier.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0m4g6SwdPyVdyC_yKTXlMZRymxp-NHz5PFjfM_vG7HrrK3eaZO6MhCOH5ZIclIp7JEkMFGMIQB133fp7kcWCYz2xpOiisbN0VSa-G89X97sSBkRMchRcT4wkWjDPRre8RhUm_wCypKVY/s1600-h/074-02.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0m4g6SwdPyVdyC_yKTXlMZRymxp-NHz5PFjfM_vG7HrrK3eaZO6MhCOH5ZIclIp7JEkMFGMIQB133fp7kcWCYz2xpOiisbN0VSa-G89X97sSBkRMchRcT4wkWjDPRre8RhUm_wCypKVY/s200/074-02.gif" alt="Sloped Joist Ceiling" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153578435968707762" border="0" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-42891005338533725422008-01-09T11:42:00.000-08:002008-01-09T11:52:33.167-08:00Energy Efficient Housing Construction: Windows<h3>Window Design</h3><br /><br /><p>Windows serve a variety of purposes, they are one of the most prominent architectural aspects, can provide ventilation and have a great impact on the energy efficiency and comfort levels of a home. Windows can account for 30 to 40% of the heat loss or heat gain in an energy efficient home.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjvyjF-rsBUMuSDZOKFUFG5HLlXAup6dev854JA1U_KZJrvlk3DBoriqk6xvt3vbbqpoyqdXdhy1JlI5J18hUKn9OHOLtBV4wfyCtwyXZn27_Wjt68ia56njpaZdfvTijetFd-ivouXTQ/s1600-h/winter.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjvyjF-rsBUMuSDZOKFUFG5HLlXAup6dev854JA1U_KZJrvlk3DBoriqk6xvt3vbbqpoyqdXdhy1JlI5J18hUKn9OHOLtBV4wfyCtwyXZn27_Wjt68ia56njpaZdfvTijetFd-ivouXTQ/s200/winter.bmp" alt="Window in Winter" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153565929023941602" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>The overall energy performance of a window unit in a cold climate depends on the glazing (glass or sealed unit), window style or type, frame and sash materials, air leakage, installation and the use of interior coverings or exterior shading devices. Window orientation also plays a large roll in overall window performance due to the combined effects of solar gains, seasonal winds and shading factors. Views, ventilating, natural lighting and passive solar aspects as well as architectural and aesthetic values must be considered. Window types and placement depends on which combination of functions the window must satisfy.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p>Window selection and placement are key design considerations which effect home energy usage and lighting, as well as comfort and humidity levels. Successful designs usually exhibit a minimal total window area with the majority oriented south for passive solar gain. If possible plan spaces so that most windows face south, while few windows face east or west, and very few, if any at all, face north.</p><br /><br /><p>South-facing glass area should not exceed 8 to 12% of the total living area on an energy-efficient home unless new high performance units are used and precautions are taken to avoid potential overheating problems. Opening windows can help control overheating on sunny spring or fall days. If high performance window units are used the total glass area could be increased to 10% or 15% without increasing the overheating potential. Different window sizing rules need to be applied when dealing with increased internal mass, attached sunspaces or mass walls.</p><br /><br /><p>Fading, sun rot and damage to finishing materials are problems which can be caused by large areas of south or west facing windows. Low-E window units can reduce the UV portion of sunlight that causes the damage by 60 to 90% while still admitting visible light. One should also select materials such as wood, masonry or special fabrics which will not deteriorate from exposure to direct sunlight. Using a masonry material for floors or walls is an especially good choice since it provides some heat retaining thermal mass as well as being a durable interior finishing material. Framing members may have to be increased in size or number to carry the weight of a masonry floor or wall.</p><br /><br /><p>Although living spaces on the south with large windows capture valuable solar energy, there may be times when that heat and glare is undesirable. High performance Low-E units can be used to reduce solar gains and glare from large south or west facing windows.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPZMRX5boVXC8-IqpoGfvnz1Rb4rvt6b1JFospB7p7oLXMheFj36W6wX6kURMkAq26OL6TdfVoTgRij1OIHp3-d-TR2mRmXrOh-f40O-Obmf0RXSgib6OZSial3BeTaRACgZn85zQNY6o/s1600-h/054.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPZMRX5boVXC8-IqpoGfvnz1Rb4rvt6b1JFospB7p7oLXMheFj36W6wX6kURMkAq26OL6TdfVoTgRij1OIHp3-d-TR2mRmXrOh-f40O-Obmf0RXSgib6OZSial3BeTaRACgZn85zQNY6o/s200/054.bmp" alt="Window Placement" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153565929023941618" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Vertically designed windows can create a pleasing indoor feeling in terms of natural lighting, viewing and providing ventilation. In bedrooms, furniture placement is often improved with vertical windows. Vertical windows can simply be described as units which are taller than they are wide. On the other hand, it is often difficult to place furniture (like beds or seating units) under vertically designed windows. Because the sills are 32 inches (800 mm) or more above the floor, horizontal windows can be hard for children to open, view out of, or use as an emergency escape.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p>Adding windows to a side wall or using clerestory windows are two ways illustrated for balancing the natural light. In addition, clerestory windows can bring natural light deep into a building - north side rooms with no other windows, for example. Skylights work well for natural lighting but can cause problems in cold climates. Light pipes or tubes offer a new option for providing day lighting in cold climate homes.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLk7YXM0goGil1Q_6XiltgnQRy4-VHeiOxcc4bUYxKZK7VkbiKlPtn17VnWcecbLwG7ri_2KI4NcOoYO3iqHYSsNmSjTq2xb4uOsEwz1-Sm14ZvUuHUGN_8kZQ-CMgqSeNrfxQW_55YDQ/s1600-h/055-02.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLk7YXM0goGil1Q_6XiltgnQRy4-VHeiOxcc4bUYxKZK7VkbiKlPtn17VnWcecbLwG7ri_2KI4NcOoYO3iqHYSsNmSjTq2xb4uOsEwz1-Sm14ZvUuHUGN_8kZQ-CMgqSeNrfxQW_55YDQ/s200/055-02.bmp" alt="Balancing Natural Light" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153565937613876226" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Window Coverings</h3><br /><br /><p>Interior and exterior window coverings can be used to provide control against overheating and night time heat loss. Louvred horizontal or vertical blinds, shutters or awnings are devices which can be utilized - either on the outside or inside to block the sun. Screening devices used on the outside are more efficient at blocking incoming energy but can be difficult to operate in the winter. Movable window insulation can also be used to help control heat losses. In addition to lowering heat losses, window insulation can function as the window covering (eliminating the need for drapes), control heat gain in the summer, provide privacy and protection and reduce convective drafts near windows. Swinging or rolling shutters, thermal curtains or shades and between-the-glazing insulations are some of the types commercially available.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzRZkinWu6lB3ld-diAccU3XV0MZyJncjgNCtHEdo4Um6khFjO31gdumQYOJVq45pMtb5jgSoQAWQIhUPrrzHqKBKIJ4zT9-npWkqmbag3Qi93KmOXyKDkmEJdU7DzAUoOsVyh9AFGlc/s1600-h/056-01.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzRZkinWu6lB3ld-diAccU3XV0MZyJncjgNCtHEdo4Um6khFjO31gdumQYOJVq45pMtb5jgSoQAWQIhUPrrzHqKBKIJ4zT9-npWkqmbag3Qi93KmOXyKDkmEJdU7DzAUoOsVyh9AFGlc/s200/056-01.bmp" alt="Window Shading Devices" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153565937613876242" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Window Units</h3><a name="win1"></a><br /><br /><p>When shopping for window units look for high performance windows which have high tested <a href="">unit R (RSI) values</a>. Units must offer good durability and materials, while meeting your design and budget requirements. Current window units offer a variety of new technologies and thermal improvements to reduce heat loss and condensation problems.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvXT-fbY9tDLSG-dnVvLDrnO_0LcJF53wCEh4HW2jTCJnjudmBNaZ56zcOQCSGlMc1mJs8hHA8K-bM4IV6Ml4emRBYaiLuQRnSO7joDy8xLfv6hniLe4WylFAKsSExQWqfzjeYrbqxDgE/s1600-h/win-unit.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvXT-fbY9tDLSG-dnVvLDrnO_0LcJF53wCEh4HW2jTCJnjudmBNaZ56zcOQCSGlMc1mJs8hHA8K-bM4IV6Ml4emRBYaiLuQRnSO7joDy8xLfv6hniLe4WylFAKsSExQWqfzjeYrbqxDgE/s200/win-unit.bmp" alt="High Performance Windows" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153565941908843554" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><ul><br /><br /><li><strong>Low-emissivity - Low-E</strong> coatings applied to interior (or exterior) glazing surfaces which reduce the radiant heat losses and can be used to control solar gains.<br /></li><li><strong>Insulating, inert gases</strong> (like Argon or Krypton) between the window panes reduce convection heat losses.<br /></li><li><strong>New insulating spacers</strong> and low-profile insulating frames combined with better air sealing on opening units, have improved solar gain while reducing air leakage and conduction heat losses.<br /></li><li><strong>Low-E coated films</strong> made of thin polyester or plastic between two panes of glass provide lighter weight, high performance, multiple-glazing units.<br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /><h3>Window Types</h3><br /><br /><p><strong>Fixed</strong> window units are large expanses of glazing primarily for viewing through. The frame and the sash are both fixed in place, do not open and may have multiple glazings. Fixed units are the most energy efficient.</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Horizontal Sliders</strong> come in several combinations. Choose ones with a fixed window on one side and a sliding window on the other, much like a patio door. The window segments may have double, triple or high performance glazing units incorporated into the design. Units are difficult to weatherstrip effectively, subject to air leakage and are not recommended for energy efficient homes.</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Casement</strong> windows operate much like a door. They have side mounted hinges, a hand crank which opens the window and pivot on a vertical axis. Some units have a hand crank that swings the window open and then slides the window to the centre of the opening. Two hatch-levers on the sash lock the window to the frame, pulling it tight against the weatherstripping and provide good security. These windows are the easiest to weatherstrip effectively and are consequently the most draft free of opening windows.</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Awning</strong> windows are very similar to casement windows except they open to the outside from a hinge along the top. They are very weather tight, provide good security and can be compared to a casement in overall energy efficiency.</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Tilt and turn</strong> windows have special hardware that allows the window to tilt in at the top or to open like a door, toward the inside. These windows are also very weather tight, comparable to awning or casement in energy efficiency with a locking type handle and good security.</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Pivoting</strong> windows are common in Europe. They pivot in the centre of the frame in a vertical or horizontal axis depending on the model. Moderately airtight, this window type is not a good choice in 'buggy' climates as it is difficult to screen effectively.</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Bay or Bow</strong> windows are extremely popular. They are windows that jut out on a cantilever floor section, with a series of fixed or opening units joined together in a 3 window or 5 window configuration. Care must be taken to ensure that proper insulation and vapour barrier techniques are applied to the floor area or condensation, drafts and cold floors may occur.</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Combination</strong> windows are simply an amalgamation of several different units such as fixed units and casement windows. These usually come pre-assembled from the factory ready for installation.</p><br /><br /><h3>Skylights</h3><br /><br /><p>Good quality skylights can be an asset to any home during a long indoor winter. In cold climates, choice and placement of skylights has to be done carefully in order to avoid overheating and sun damage during the summer and excessive heat loss with dripping condensation in the winter. Skylights can on the other hand provide a view of cloud scapes and sky, while allowing light deeper into the home than wall mounted windows can, especially on cloudy days. </p><br /><br /><p>Glazings for skylights are available in acrylic, polycarbonate, polystyrene and glass. The requirements for a skylight unit should be at least the same as those for a high performance window unit or better.</p><br /><br /><p>The deeper the well of the skylight, the less air circulation and the greater the potential for condensation. Flaring the well at the bottom of the shaft will increase air circulation and the amount of light being delivered by the skylight. Sealing a piece of glazing at the ceiling opening of the skylight well can also help. The light well that frames the skylight should be finished in a light colored paint or mirror to allow the well to reflect the maximum amount of light.</p><br /><br /><p>When choosing a skylight consider the slope of the roof in relation to the shape of the skylight. Flat skylights on a low slope roof tend to collect snow and dust more readily than dome or pyramidal shaped skylights. Opening skylights can vent hot air out of a house rapidly but may need regular maintenance in order to seal effectively when they are closed. Also, opening skylights should be equipped with a screen.</p><br /><br /><p>When placing a skylight on your home, southern or western exposures should use glazing which is tinted, or has a Low-E coating that blocks at least 50% of the solar gain and 90% of the ultra violet light. Consider the percentage of roof area that skylights will cover in any one room. Skylights are usually poor insulators and large areas of roof glazing can be a source of cold drafts and condensation problems on long January days and nights.</p><br /><br /><h3>Exterior Doors</h3><br /><br /><p>Energy efficient exterior doors should have an insulated core bonded to the inside and outside skins of steel alloy, aluminum, fibreglass or wood composite. For cold climates insulated doors are a good choice. With much higher insulating values (R-10, RSI 1.8) insulated doors are less prone to warping and are easier to weatherstrip effectively. A door may also have one or two 'side lites' of glass which should be high performance glazing units. Metal doors should have good quality compressible, magnetic or adjustable weatherstripping to reduce air leakage.</p><br /><br /><h3>Patio Doors</h3><br /><br /><p>Patio doors can be the largest window in your house. All the components that make a good high performance window also make a good patio door. Triple glazing is very seldom found in a patio door as it is heavy and requires a very thick unit. Some patio doors have two sliding panels while others have one panel fixed and one panel that slides. Sliding doors are very difficult to weatherstrip. Friction and foot traffic wear the weatherstripping out in short order. Rollers can also wear out, requiring replacement. A better type of sliding patio door is available that operates like an airplane door - popping in and sliding away from the weatherstrip with a latching type handle.</p><br /><br /><p>Garden, Terrace or French doors are a better choice for energy efficient homes than traditional sliding patio doors. These are similar to double entry doors, with a large glazing area, and one or both opening inwards. Units are available with insulated cores, high performance glazings and can be weatherstripped very effectively. Screens attach to the inside or are mounted on a track on the outside.</p><br /><br /><p>When designing a new home take into consideration the location of patio doors. Avoid northern exposures and prevailing winds. Good installation is also critical. Poor installation can cause poorly operating doors, drafts and increased condensation problems.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-6488094440984049552008-01-09T11:31:00.000-08:002008-01-09T11:40:37.049-08:00Energy Efficient Housing Construction: Exterior Walls<h2>Exterior Walls</h2><br /><br /><p>This section describes types of wall construction and how walls are connected to the floor, ceiling and foundation construction to maintain airtightness and high levels of insulation. The major obstacles to well-insulated and sealed walls are the necessary penetrations in the wall such as doors, windows and electrical outlets. Again eliminating as many potential problems as possible in the design stages is the first step - place wall switches on interior partitions, locate exhaust fans on interior walls, use the most energy efficient windows and doors possible.</p><br /><br /><p>Since there does need to be some electrical outlets on exterior walls, they can be installed using polyethylene air/vapour boxes for wall outlets. Some of the wall details show an isolated air/vapour barrier so that electrical wiring can be installed inside the polyethylene layer. Floor or baseboard outlet systems can also be used to eliminate the problem of outlets on exterior walls.</p><br /><br /><h3>Wall Penetrations</h3><br /><br /><a NAME="wrap"></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk2L_3WIt5cU9XhYDdDyn2XsqsU8X40yUMxWX5v7Yoy0kBIUQVBIZIvqzHfsGIFBGqgR6EDPCgIojgL8RLisU2Jtohy20j_bBOveyxUYi3y59b0eapTT2hCHLDpuWJvTxYQ72dSxo7Qlg/s1600-h/075-02.bmp"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk2L_3WIt5cU9XhYDdDyn2XsqsU8X40yUMxWX5v7Yoy0kBIUQVBIZIvqzHfsGIFBGqgR6EDPCgIojgL8RLisU2Jtohy20j_bBOveyxUYi3y59b0eapTT2hCHLDpuWJvTxYQ72dSxo7Qlg/s200/075-02.bmp" border="0" alt="Window or Door Installation" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153562871007226770" /></a><br /><br /><p>The rough opening space left around installed doors and windows creates a special sealing and insulating problem on exterior walls. Always use good quality window and door units to minimize air leakage heat losses through the unit. They must however also be installed properly to eliminate air leakage around the units. An <a HREF="">air/vapour barrier strip</a> can first be sealed (caulked) and attached (stapled) around the outside of the door or window frame. Once the unit is installed the cavity between the rough opening and the window frame is then insulated. This strip is then attached and sealed to the wall air/vapour barrier to create an airtight seal around the opening.</p><br /><br /><br CLEAR="all"><br><br /><br /><h3>Single Stud Walls</h3><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0g14tKRqqN49CViAzY3plwimCIzeZ9wm_RW6hKcPee6aE2uLgT2KdGZEEncpRAwoNerUpp3kCcjZi0YXafpUwiz1HfieQSIoUbBgrL6cJ7Qu20gmZ_Ot0-lzIvCW1Ep7fxymYMNAqR0/s1600-h/075-01.bmp"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ0g14tKRqqN49CViAzY3plwimCIzeZ9wm_RW6hKcPee6aE2uLgT2KdGZEEncpRAwoNerUpp3kCcjZi0YXafpUwiz1HfieQSIoUbBgrL6cJ7Qu20gmZ_Ot0-lzIvCW1Ep7fxymYMNAqR0/s200/075-01.bmp" border="0" alt="Single Stud Wall Detail" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153562871007226786" /></a><br /><br /><p>The use of a single stud width for exterior walls is the most common form of North American residential construction. To obtain an R 20 rating (RSI 3.5) in a single stud cavity, 2 x 6 inch (38 x 140 mm) construction must be used. This is an absolute minimum wall R-value level for energy efficient housing. To maintain air/vapour barrier continuity from lower to upper floors, the polyethylene air/vapour barrier can be carried around the floor joists during the early stages of construction. If extra exterior or interior insulation is not being added the walls should be offset 2 inches (38 mm) over the edge of the subfloor so that a piece of rigid insulation can be added to the outside of the joist space (required to keep the air/vapour barrier on the inside of the insulation). Box beam lintels can be made of plywood and are one way to increase the insulation through lintels over windows and doors. Installing rigid insulation between header plates is another method.</p><br /><br /><br CLEAR="all"><br><br /><br /><h3>Exterior Insulation</h3><br /><br /><p>In an effort to provide more insulation (as well as blocking the thermal bridges through the wall studs, plates and lintels), an insulated sheathing of rigid fibreglass or rigid foam can be applied to the outside of the wall. This provides a 'blanket' over the wall with more insulation applied over lintels, double studs, corners and the joist space. As well, the sheathing layer can extend down to join the foundation covering. Window and door jamb extensions must be used when wall thicknesses are increased.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1SsyvduagMLEkZpDBDQZHOnM9VM6v3Gaqm8Lyv8V37C6eOeVD8DPriVwxkUN9NRgraSeJ6U5DqKmLYebYoThtxOlboXezzdZzW9Bdgj39ZibnIFrXs6yd9WfbuFwjVyVXHEobpdLCAnA/s1600-h/076-01.bmp"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1SsyvduagMLEkZpDBDQZHOnM9VM6v3Gaqm8Lyv8V37C6eOeVD8DPriVwxkUN9NRgraSeJ6U5DqKmLYebYoThtxOlboXezzdZzW9Bdgj39ZibnIFrXs6yd9WfbuFwjVyVXHEobpdLCAnA/s200/076-01.bmp" border="0" alt="Exterior Insulated Sheathing" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153562875302194098" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Interior Insulation</h3><br /><br /><p>Interior strapping is another method of increasing wall insulation in single stud construction and reducing the thermal conduction through the wall studs. This method isolates the air/vapour barrier in the wall and provides a convenient cavity so that the polyethylene is not punctured for wiring or plumbing. Strapping is placed horizontally across the wall studs which works well with horizontal wallboard application. The wall air/vapour barrier must be sealed to the ceiling (or second floor), floor and foundation polyethylene layers as shown. At least two-thirds of the insulation must be outside the polyethylene air/vapour barrier.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieXBZAO_djlKhkq50M1CPSDl-n4IC2qArY7w_Z28bxfwrhD8GohYzU8fpTSj7BHL_L7tv_QWYq1iIbH8SAblNIowrtC9RKtbG24N6313eCpvV8-lMe_2lG2-Xwn7dFPOhHwMyneas9maE/s1600-h/076-02.bmp"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieXBZAO_djlKhkq50M1CPSDl-n4IC2qArY7w_Z28bxfwrhD8GohYzU8fpTSj7BHL_L7tv_QWYq1iIbH8SAblNIowrtC9RKtbG24N6313eCpvV8-lMe_2lG2-Xwn7dFPOhHwMyneas9maE/s200/076-02.bmp" border="0" alt="Interior Wall Strapping" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153562879597161410" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Staggered Stud Walls</h3><br /><br /><p>A method of increasing wall insulation levels in a single cavity is to use wider plates. Since wide studs would create more of a thermal bridge, a staggered stud wall can be used instead. A good example would be using 2 x 4 inch studs (38 x 89 mm) on 2 x 8 inch plates ( 38 x 184 mm) to create an R 28 (RSI-5) wall. Even wider plates can be used to obtain higher RSI-values. A staggered stud wall does offer benefits in terms of joist space for insulation, but the air/vapour barrier is on the inside where it can be easily damaged.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Xfv2mWKHpekxQ1hkwgmL2ZYzpw1TUxMi8hpre4cHEx6Nc9FRoMyXCVxJI8OiJXE9KAtSO6wW4dGnhk6017irnvEHMr74KIusm_3xJ37DX0djbcKBUciAVylwEWP_UlfM3RoDJIAIcKo/s1600-h/077.bmp"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Xfv2mWKHpekxQ1hkwgmL2ZYzpw1TUxMi8hpre4cHEx6Nc9FRoMyXCVxJI8OiJXE9KAtSO6wW4dGnhk6017irnvEHMr74KIusm_3xJ37DX0djbcKBUciAVylwEWP_UlfM3RoDJIAIcKo/s200/077.bmp" border="0" alt="Staggered Stud Wall Details" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153562883892128722" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Double Wall Technique</h3><br /><br /><p>This wall construction method was developed both to provide a wide wall cavity for high levels of insulation and so the air/vapour barrier could be isolated inside the assembly in a protected position. Two individual stud walls are constructed. The inside one, usually 2 x 4 inch (38 x 89 mm), is the structural wall and is complete with double plates, window lintels and outside sheathing. The air/vapour barrier is placed under the outside sheathing on the outside of this structural wall.</p><br /><br /><p>A second stud wall is placed some distance out from the structural wall - its function to provide support for the exterior finishing material. Insulation is placed in the resultant three cavities. The amount of insulation depends on the width of each cavity but there must be at least two-thirds of the total wall insulation value outside the sheathing (so that the air/vapour barrier is in the correct position).</p><br /><br /><p>Plywood spacers at the plates can be used to position the outer wall. If a 4 inch (100mm) cavity is left between two 2 x 4 inch (38 x 89mm) stud walls, then three layers of R-12 (RSI 2.1) insulation can be used to give a total value of R-36 (RSI 6.3). Leaving 6 inches (150mm) between the walls would result in R-44 value (RSI-7.7) being the wall total - with R-32 (RSI 5.6) on the outside of the polyethylene layer.</p><br /><br /><a NAME="double"></a><br /><br /><p><a HREF="">The double wall construction</a> method will result in a home that is super insulated and sealed The single biggest disadvantage for double wall construction is the associated cost increase in materials and labour.</p><br /><br /><h3>Wall Systems</h3><a NAME="pan"></a><br /><br /><p>A variety of <a HREF="">wall systems</a> are now widely available which utilize expanded-polystyrene panels combined with wood, steel or concrete structural members. Most of these wall systems derive their structural strength from integral wood or steel framing members embedded inside the insulation panels. These systems use factory built wall sections ready to be erected on site, and are available in R-20 to R-40 (RSI 3.5 to 7.0) values. Comparable roof panels are available up to R-40 (RSI 7.0). Foundation wall panels are also available which use preserved wood and sheathing or steel instead of regular wood as the structural members. A number of manufacturers offer concrete (block type) wall systems for both foundation and above grade walls with rigid insulation inserts.</p><br /><br /><a NAME="skin"></a><br /><br /><p>Engineered <a HREF="">structural sandwich panels</a> (often called stressed-skin panels) are also available from a number of manufacturers. Panels generally have a pre-finished interior and exterior membrane enclosing a urethane, polystyrene or other foam core. The skins are typically made of oriented strand board (OSB), wafer board or plywood and some are available with interior surfaces pre-drywalled. Standard wall panels are available in R-20 to R-40 ( RSI 3.5 to 7.0) with roof panels up to R-60 (RSI 10.5).</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-55701229068135369052008-01-09T11:03:00.000-08:002008-01-09T11:30:12.098-08:00Energy Efficient Housing Construction: Foundation<h3>INTRODUCTION</h3><br /><br /><p>This section is designed as a guide to understanding, energy efficient house construction. The Canadian 'House as a System' planning approach was used. This approach ensures that all of the components which make up the home function well together.</p><br /><br /><p>Energy efficient housing is not any particular housing style or type, almost any housing can be built using energy efficient construction techniques. Improvements in design and construction which lower energy use are permanent and are one-time-only costs which increase the value of your home, while lowering the ongoing operating costs.</p><br /><br /><p>Energy efficient housing in simple terms is 'housing which uses the energy put into it as efficiently as possible'. It is not difficult to plan and build energy efficient housing. Using existing techniques and materials, total home energy usage can be reduced by 60% to 80%.</p><br /><br /><p>The extra costs for upgraded materials, construction, insulation and airtightness required for energy efficient housing should only add 5% to 10% to the total building cost. With potential savings of 60% to 80% on energy costs, the simple payback period may only be 5 to 8 years at current energy costs. Simple payback is calculated by dividing the increased building cost by the yearly energy cost savings.</p><br /><br /><p>Faced with today's ever increasing cost of energy, and concern over what future energy costs will be, building energy efficient housing makes more economic sense now than ever. Energy efficient housing uses less energy and therefore produces less pollutants, this is one area where each of us can help preserve the environment for future generations.</p><br /><br /><br /><h2>Energy Efficient Construction</h2><br /><br /><br /><p>The basic shell construction assemblies of a home - foundation, walls, floors and roofs - are covered in detail in this section. Standard house building practices are illustrated with the emphasis on high insulation levels and a continuous air/vapour barrier installation. Details include how the floor, wall and ceiling assemblies join (and the sealing problems created) and how airtightness and insulation levels are maintained in spite of obstructions such as windows, doors, wiring, plumbing, pipes, or chimneys. The object is not to cover all aspects of structural building design - only how energy efficient construction can be incorporated into existing residential construction practices.For reference, <a href="http://www.blogger.com/ds01-02.htm">Table 2</a> lists metric building material sizes along with Imperial equivalents.</p><br /><br /><a name="found"></a><br /><br /><h3>Controlling Heat Loss</h3><br /><br /><p>Most important to the success of an energy efficient home is the quality of construction. Even poorly sited homes (as often occurs in urban areas), with little passive solar gain potential, can be very energy efficient homes. Adequate levels of insulation and careful sealing can combine to cut heat losses so that the energy required for space heating will only be 15% to 25% of a 'normally' constructed home.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3hILrShD71Oj2YLW5kv67dM5qdR-SQc3znmfKYaTHZV020xn-RPK5jnHhP9rPyfhOuBk87GJofmmF8sXl1pnOflnfakKNYS0ibJ1WVHFbSdu-RnInYWaKKeHo7gsK_PfUYBjlcKQJQN4/s1600-h/064.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3hILrShD71Oj2YLW5kv67dM5qdR-SQc3znmfKYaTHZV020xn-RPK5jnHhP9rPyfhOuBk87GJofmmF8sXl1pnOflnfakKNYS0ibJ1WVHFbSdu-RnInYWaKKeHo7gsK_PfUYBjlcKQJQN4/s200/064.bmp" alt="Home Heat Loss" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153555934635043538" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><p>A good way to think about a house is to consider it a 'shell' which must keep heat inside during the winter. This shell is made up of floors, ceilings and walls constructed with various building materials. Heat is lost from the inside of your home in two ways: either directly through the shell or when warm indoor air leaks out through cracks and holes (replaced by cold outside air leaking in).</p><br /><br /><p>Energy loss through the building shell can be 40% to 70% of the total and is controlled with insulation. Air leakage losses account for the remainder and is controlled by the air/vapour barrier, weatherstripping and caulking.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3>Insulation</h3><a name="insul"></a><br /><br /><p>Insulation is measured by its R-value (or RSI-value). The higher the R-value, the better the insulation stops heat flow. R-values for different building materials are given in <a href="http://www.blogger.com/ds01-01.htm">Table 1</a>. The total R-value for a wall, ceiling or floor is the sum of the values of each part or layer.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2MPXbCa5xek7S10dxEiJYbetydDAZ9XTYIn5J05nMn4QpsC2pnV2AipzabmuUOwWhxtMBB4lBY-VicREhyphenhyphenW644n4_DBfWiwYUZktxKmmz_AWdpDhYPC3LT_xFYKNFCCEV0sS7yY9Cip4/s1600-h/065-01.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2MPXbCa5xek7S10dxEiJYbetydDAZ9XTYIn5J05nMn4QpsC2pnV2AipzabmuUOwWhxtMBB4lBY-VicREhyphenhyphenW644n4_DBfWiwYUZktxKmmz_AWdpDhYPC3LT_xFYKNFCCEV0sS7yY9Cip4/s200/065-01.bmp" alt="Calculating R-Values" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153555943224978146" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><p>For an <strong>Energy Efficient House</strong> in a cold climate (5000 heating degree days or less), the recommended R-values (RSI-values) are:</p><br /><br /><ul><br /><br /><li>R-10 (RSI 1.7) under foundation floor.<br /></li><li>R-30 (RSI 5.0) for above grade floors such as overhangs, cantilevers and below projecting windows.<br /></li><li>R-20 (RSI 3.5) for all walls above and below grade.<br /></li><li>R-40 (RSI 7.0) for all ceilings whether sloped or flat.<br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p>For a <strong>Super Energy Efficient House</strong> in a cold climate or if building in a very cold climate (5700 heating degree days or more), the recommended R-values (RSI-values) are:</p><br /><br /><ul><br /><br /><li>R-30 (RSI 5.3) for all foundation walls.<br /></li><li>R--36 (RSI 6.3) for all walls above grade.<br /></li><li>R-40 (RSI 7.0) for above grade floors such as overhangs, cantilevers and below projecting windows.<br /></li><li>R-60 (RSI 10.5) for all ceilings whether sloped or flat.<br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p>Most insulation products can be placed in one of three types - blanket, loose fill or rigid.</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Blanket Insulation</strong> (often called 'batt') is the easiest to handle and being premanufactured, has a consistent quality. It is most suitable for application to vertical cavities (as in walls). There are two common kinds, glass fibre and mineral fibre, both with an R-value of about R-3.5 per inch (RSI-value 0.024 per millimetre)</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Loose Fill Insulations</strong> are made from a variety of products and all work well for horizontal surfaces such as ceilings where the depth is not a problem. They can also be used in regular or irregular joist and wall cavities. It is essential that loose fill materials made of wood or paper products be treated for fire resistance. R-values range from R 2.5 to 3.5 per inch (RSI-values 0.016 to 0.024 per millimetre of thickness).</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Rigid Insulations</strong> are made of a number of products such as polystyrene, fibreglass, urethane or isocyanurate. They are the most expensive types but do offer the highest R-values up to R-7.5 per inch (RSI-values to 0.051 per millimetre). Rigid insulations are a fire hazard when exposed to the interior but are considered safe when installed properly. In particular, they can be used on the interior of a home if covered by at least 1/2 inch (12 mm) of drywall or plaster which is mechanically fastened to the structure. Rigid insulations can be used on the outside of concrete, masonry or wood walls and under siding or stucco finishes. Some high density types are suitable for use under concrete floor slabs.</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Spray-Foamed Insulations</strong> are mixed on the job site by the contractor/ installer. A liquid type foam is sprayed directly into wall cavities. The foam expands in place and sets in a short time span. Installation should only be handled by qualified installers. R-values range from R-3.5 to 6.0 per inch (RSI-values 0.024 to 0.042 per millimeter of thickness).</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Sprayed-in-Place Insulations</strong> are loose fill products which are blown in to wall cavities. A mesh or plastic film is attached to the walls, the insulation is then mixed with an adhesive, usually water-based and then blown into the wall cavities. The three most common types of insulation installed in this way are cellulose, glass fibre blowing wool and mineral or rockwool. R-values range from R-3 to R 3.5 per inch (RSI-values 0.024 to 0.032 per millimetre of thickness).</p><br /><br /><p>The proper choice of insulation type depends on its use. In addition to high thermal resistance, a good insulation should have low absorption of water, resistance to fire, bacteria and vermin, reasonable cost, and be easily applied.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><h2>Air Leakage</h2><br /><br /><br /><p>The air/vapour barrier plays the most important role in controlling air leakage heat losses and, in conjunction with caulking and weatherstripping, creates the seal between inside and outside. Exterior air barriers (taped) are recommended under any exterior siding or finish materials which are subject to air penetration</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Caulking</strong> is used to seal any gaps where two surfaces meet but have limited or no movement. Most types of caulking will 'skin over' so they can be painted or are not sticky to touch when hardened.</p><br /><br /><ul><br /><br /><li>Oil or resin based caulks are inexpensive, but are not very durable (less than 5 years).<br /></li><li>Latex based materials are reasonably priced and durable, as well as being applicable to a number of different situations.<br /></li><li>Butyl rubber compounds are expensive but work the best for sealing wood to concrete surfaces (should only be applied in well ventilated areas).<br /></li><li>Elastomeric caulks (silicone and polysulphide) are very expensive but also very durable.<br /></li><li>Acoustical sealant, does not harden or form a skin and is used for sealing joins in the air/vapour barrier.<br /></li><li>Polyurethane foam is a special type of material useful for sealing large gaps around rough openings or along sill plates.<br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p>Weatherstripping is used to control air leakage at joints where two surfaces meet and move such as opening windows and doors. Weatherstripping is available in compression types, wedging types and magnet types. Good quality windows and door units are supplied with quality weatherstripping materials and are tested for air leakage rates. One should select units which have been tested and shown to have air leakage rates of less than 1/2 cfm per foot of sash length (0.80 litres per second per metre).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxYpum5WDf9Kb5eRdP2vi4fnYBmDW8rzaIWKMZt7fIVTm1xNcp3sZ2YcFScnOe3uXROGsqAag629Gfmh2uId0HsYNiU-kWkg-svkZ7580unWm4ouvVgiWBXXPf3shPf9JH_SdIa2Y02X8/s1600-h/066.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxYpum5WDf9Kb5eRdP2vi4fnYBmDW8rzaIWKMZt7fIVTm1xNcp3sZ2YcFScnOe3uXROGsqAag629Gfmh2uId0HsYNiU-kWkg-svkZ7580unWm4ouvVgiWBXXPf3shPf9JH_SdIa2Y02X8/s200/066.bmp" alt="Joining Air-Vapour Barrier Layers" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153555951814912754" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></p><p>Polyethylene sheets are used for the air/vapour barrier. It is essential, in an energy efficient house, that the air/vapour barrier be continuous and all joints between sheets be sealed over solid backing. A non-skinning caulking such as acoustical sealant is used to seal between joints in the polyethylene. Because polyethylene is often handled roughly when being installed, 6 mil thick (0.150mm) sheets should be used. In addition to being more fragile, thinner polyethylene is much more permeable to air/vapour transmission than the thicker 0.150mm (6 mil) sheets.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p>The air/vapour barrier has another role to play in house construction. In addition to controlling air leakage, it prevents water vapour movement into the walls, ceilings or floors.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtiy9X3QUiUAjs4wKIKr8TZkJUiOayTNrBQKL46JqvuP6q3NaEHjBn-6XnqvQz7AwlIzlECGguTCHBxm9qMblLhq9yGsPU14yPgAx5FdyX5KaTjlZHGSef-U4j_6zqCPzEeG1oXObFJg/s1600-h/067.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtiy9X3QUiUAjs4wKIKr8TZkJUiOayTNrBQKL46JqvuP6q3NaEHjBn-6XnqvQz7AwlIzlECGguTCHBxm9qMblLhq9yGsPU14yPgAx5FdyX5KaTjlZHGSef-U4j_6zqCPzEeG1oXObFJg/s200/067.bmp" alt="Air/Vapour Barrier Position" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153555956109880066" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><p>If vapour from the interior is allowed to enter an insulated assembly during cold weather, it could condense and form ice at some point in the wall. When the ice melts, deterioration of the insulation and structural components will occur over time. There is also a potential for supporting mold growth within the wall assembly which can cause indoor air quality problems. For this reason, the air/vapour layer must be located near the warm (or interior) side of ceilings, walls and floors.</p><br /><br /><p>Research has shown that as long as the air/vapour barrier is placed within the first one-third of the total assembly R-value (measured from the warm side), then no condensation problems will occur.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h2>Foundations</h2><br /><br /><br /><p>Every building must have an adequate foundation to support it. In cold climates, foundations usually form an enclosure under a building - a crawl space or basement - although some (slab-on-grade) are built right on the ground. Controlling the heat loss through the foundation is very important. Contrary to popular belief, earth is not a good insulator and one-third of the total heat loss in a home can occur through an uninsulated basement.</p><br /><br /><h3>Masonry or Concrete Foundation Walls</h3><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSHrf-S2vZbNjHf3FYWcpiuMiJazRUCKYFC5KvDN51KwywWar2NOO39BolF8Rana2efE3dRlZC4J4ycJ5-9gdbOs1-t0Q0GMNYpw41qcmk6pfupLtKi1nNrNU92pIwJ2i9-3qWWNPpdOs/s1600-h/068-02.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSHrf-S2vZbNjHf3FYWcpiuMiJazRUCKYFC5KvDN51KwywWar2NOO39BolF8Rana2efE3dRlZC4J4ycJ5-9gdbOs1-t0Q0GMNYpw41qcmk6pfupLtKi1nNrNU92pIwJ2i9-3qWWNPpdOs/s200/068-02.bmp" alt="Exterior Foundation Wall Insulation" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153555960404847378" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Cast-in-place concrete or block-type walls are the most commonly used in Canada. Insulating this type of foundation is best done on the outside if possible. The large amount of thermal mass in a masonry or concrete foundation is included in the interior volume of the house if it is insulated on the outside. As well, the foundation is less susceptible to frost damage and leaking. Rigid insulation or glass fibre sheets can be used. The above grade portion must be protected with stucco, treated plywood or similar rigid exterior finishes. Since masonry or concrete walls are quite porous, a polyethylene air/vapour barrier is added on the interior to eliminate any potential condensation problems with the completed interior walls. The exterior foundation insulation details shows the application of rigid insulation.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk9ZYzk_CAJtwkDCdgGUa6E0w9lkC6KgxaKjrxH2Al1vuYN8ivOaXlu7cdAPe40aUQ134uAUDqSfc1j0WQWXduSYeB3JV2jL1VLheUjIuKrWEIFU3ik5aow6erRJBxHo4k3xGcglYQv5A/s1600-h/068-01.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk9ZYzk_CAJtwkDCdgGUa6E0w9lkC6KgxaKjrxH2Al1vuYN8ivOaXlu7cdAPe40aUQ134uAUDqSfc1j0WQWXduSYeB3JV2jL1VLheUjIuKrWEIFU3ik5aow6erRJBxHo4k3xGcglYQv5A/s200/068-01.bmp" alt="Interior Foundation Insulation" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153558876687641378" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Most masonry foundations however, have been, and will continue to be insulated on the inside. A most important step is placing a moisture barrier of polyethylene on the inside of the wall from the exterior grade level to the floor. The wall interior is then insulated and sealed similar to frame wall construction. It is also possible to use rigid insulation, attach an air/vapour barrier, then finish the wall directly over it. The interior finish is difficult to attach through the rigid insulation - which must be 4 to 6 inches thick (100mm to 150mm) in order to have an R-20 value (RSI 3.5). If plastic rigid insulation is used, drywall which is mechanically fastened to the foundation wall must cover it. A 2 x 4 inch (38 x 89 mm) stud wall frame work spaced 1.5 inches (36mm) out from the foundation wall, as illustrated, can be insulated with R-20 (RSI 3.5) batt-type insulation products.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p>This provides the easiest and most economical route if a foundation wall must be insulated on the inside. The interior foundation insulation detail shows how this is best done to provide a well-sealed and insulated wall.</p><br /><br /><p>There are currently a number of products available from manufacturers which offer rigid interior foundation insulation systems. These systems each have their own methods for attaching both the insulation and the interior finish and offer an effective alternative to wood framing and batt insulation.<br /><br /></p><h3>Pressure Treated Wood Foundation Walls</h3><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji7fTrD-Fs50SfzOErdvGVk5ZGnmw8IJZYsxh_V-OD4e8hW80LToC1165kwFkStn4DCNjh333vvmPiu4Oh7v4PvP3jGm9VGwz2BZixNPqxnFlA3QZdP5eLkM6yclV2ERjAzF1gQH5pGwc/s1600-h/069-01.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji7fTrD-Fs50SfzOErdvGVk5ZGnmw8IJZYsxh_V-OD4e8hW80LToC1165kwFkStn4DCNjh333vvmPiu4Oh7v4PvP3jGm9VGwz2BZixNPqxnFlA3QZdP5eLkM6yclV2ERjAzF1gQH5pGwc/s200/069-01.bmp" alt="Wood Foundation Wall" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153558885277575986" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Wood foundations can easily be made very energy efficient. Often called a 'PWF' foundation they can be constructed in almost any type of weather. A wood foundation must, however, be designed by a qualified engineer and constructed by competent builders who understand the importance of proper base preparation, handling techniques for pressure treated materials, the use of correct fasteners, drainage installation, backfilling techniques and sealing requirements. Because the foundation walls are an extension of typical wood frame construction, installing batt insulation and applying the air/vapour barrier is quite straight forward.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3>PWF Foundation Floors</h3><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ9uD2a5zsPL0d42fpwrYYVCgt1gQ0O4U-WN67RUx3ZVqzNiyPxiPV2GtpXryVjNY3SwMTo6XYoHLOb5ovFZ8JO4wIFaLeoc2dUg2q2xEAcMDk9EH0MTpihj_TqNt8s9PKktpnd45VOpg/s1600-h/069-02a.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ9uD2a5zsPL0d42fpwrYYVCgt1gQ0O4U-WN67RUx3ZVqzNiyPxiPV2GtpXryVjNY3SwMTo6XYoHLOb5ovFZ8JO4wIFaLeoc2dUg2q2xEAcMDk9EH0MTpihj_TqNt8s9PKktpnd45VOpg/s200/069-02a.bmp" alt="Concrete Foundation Floors" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153558889572543298" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>The floor in a pressure treated wood foundation can be a concrete floor slab. Rigid Insulation should be placed under the foundation floor to a minimum insulation level of R-10 (RSI 1.7). A moisture barrier of at least 6 mil polyethylene (overlap seams) is required. A 3 to 4 inch (75 to 100 mm) layer of sand placed on top of the rigid insulation and the air/vapour barrier protects both during the floor pour and aids in proper concrete curing. Extra insulation to protect footings may be required for shallow footing depths as is often the case in bilevel or crawlspace foundations.</p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The floor in a pressure treated wood foundation can also be constructed of pressure treated wood. Pressure treated wood foundation floors are constructed using standard floor framing techniques on a gravel drainage bed. The installation of an effective moisture barrier on top of the gravel drainage layer is very important (minimum 6 mil polyethylene sheeting with overlapped and sealed seams).The floor joist cavities can then be filled with standard batt, blown or loose fill insulations. An air/vapour barrier is then installed on top of the floor joists. The attachment of the floor and wall polyethylene sheets is another important step in creating continuity of the air/vapour barrier. Standard floor sheathing and finishes can then be applied.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuO6xv35l0ha1LtRsF3p2uDiOr-pGE0qSe7aMqNGPBYG1Lnio_DwTAGV1NUsFfFkAz9M3p8jlX7mpi3XEFfWl96ihUgZdULxPYWK1gmEyGR2uz2wwJ4Fe9ZopuoigiesvJMFasDNxTMlg/s1600-h/069-02b.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuO6xv35l0ha1LtRsF3p2uDiOr-pGE0qSe7aMqNGPBYG1Lnio_DwTAGV1NUsFfFkAz9M3p8jlX7mpi3XEFfWl96ihUgZdULxPYWK1gmEyGR2uz2wwJ4Fe9ZopuoigiesvJMFasDNxTMlg/s200/069-02b.bmp" alt="Wood Foundation Floors" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153558893867510610" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Polystyrene Foundation Walls</h3><br /><br /><p>There are two basic techniques used to construct foundation walls using rigid polystyrene insulation. Some systems offer either polystyrene blocks or panels which use concrete and steel reinforcing placed into the cavities for structural support.</p><br /><br /><p>Other systems offer solid polystyrene panels using metal or wood studs for structural requirements. In either case, an interior polyethylene air/vapour barrier is applied and covered with a fireproof layer of drywall or plaster which must be mechanically fastened to the structural part of the wall. The outside must also be covered with a rigid material or parging to protect the polystyrene from mechanical damage and degradation from sunlight and soils.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLEzEOzwxT51rT4gtXQt29qqGPLTS138Ox0cl9UBBe5o89m6K4Ors3KUy6qbhSXhkgRmCDkwcwZtXM9vFu_tToMn6TQWHKdbLPan05MJm8-BniGqmJw7RUYVHoJDrC1fZURqouAVMVtY/s1600-h/070-02.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMLEzEOzwxT51rT4gtXQt29qqGPLTS138Ox0cl9UBBe5o89m6K4Ors3KUy6qbhSXhkgRmCDkwcwZtXM9vFu_tToMn6TQWHKdbLPan05MJm8-BniGqmJw7RUYVHoJDrC1fZURqouAVMVtY/s200/070-02.bmp" alt="Polystyrene Foundation Wall" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153558898162477922" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Crawl Space Construction</h3><br /><br /><p>Many homes have been built with partial depth foundations which are often called crawl spaces. Because the crawl space area under a home usually contains some mechanical services, insulating the foundation walls and floor is recommended to keep the temperature above freezing. A crawl space floor should be treated the same as an exterior wall, insulated and sealed from the house interior space. The crawl space walls can be insulated from the interior or exterior using standard foundation insulation methods. Perimeter insulation is then added as well to ensure that the crawl space retains more heat and is able to resist frost penetration. A moisture barrier, placed over the ground surface, is necessary to keep the space dry.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NzUqjbr6_opdwecrPp0scUq3hgp5I71NsINvqqt7IWOGuZmhgLY3WlAzCV36VINoKR3uu6S3SMdRkzG_ziLBMehzdAgEYII8Mj34shd9Xrii1ho8O3nIvg0V5j6KVgGukSl_OM4Abxc/s1600-h/070-01.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NzUqjbr6_opdwecrPp0scUq3hgp5I71NsINvqqt7IWOGuZmhgLY3WlAzCV36VINoKR3uu6S3SMdRkzG_ziLBMehzdAgEYII8Mj34shd9Xrii1ho8O3nIvg0V5j6KVgGukSl_OM4Abxc/s200/070-01.bmp" alt="Crawl Space Construction" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153559336249142146" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><p>As well, summer ventilation should be provided by having outside air vents into the crawl space which can be opened in spring and closed in the fall. Any accumulated moisture can then be vented out during the summer months.</p><br /><br /><h3>Slab-On-Grade Construction</h3><br /><br /><p>With this type of foundation the concrete slab is the combined foundation and finished floor surface. Rigid polystyrene insulation is used below the slab to lower floor heat loss. Perimeter insulation is also applied to control heat loss from the edge of the floor slab. An insulated skirt of rigid insulation extending down and away from the foundation wall around the entire perimeter will eliminate any potential frost problems, improve drainage and help further reduce heat loss.</p><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBqqy9UP6hD_nr56IQKl_Qqqs1tICBBZdQAvKSbQhfyUcZfM9C3DhY-hJiiCaYZnSBkotNEz46BU2z0f_hb_gAZHORhd2nnt88YqFBv6atDOSbi7h5NcWJb5jOqWBxhAdNf7YZqHkPl14/s1600-h/071-01.bmp"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBqqy9UP6hD_nr56IQKl_Qqqs1tICBBZdQAvKSbQhfyUcZfM9C3DhY-hJiiCaYZnSBkotNEz46BU2z0f_hb_gAZHORhd2nnt88YqFBv6atDOSbi7h5NcWJb5jOqWBxhAdNf7YZqHkPl14/s200/071-01.bmp" alt="Slab-On-Grade Construction" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153559331954174834" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><p>The polyethylene air/vapour barrier can be applied on top of the insulation, directly below the slab. A 3 to 4 inch (75 to 100 mm) layer of sand on top of the rigid insulation and the air/vapour barrier will protect both during the floor pour and aid in proper concrete curing. In order to provide continuity with the wall air/vapour barrier, the floor polyethylene layer must be placed so it can conveniently join to the wall layer at some point during construction.</p><br /><br /><br /><p>To better anchor a slab-on-grade foundation, it can be attached to concrete piles. Large diameter holes of 8 to 12 inches (200mm to 300mm) are drilled 10 to 12 feet deep (3m to 4m) at intervals around the edge of the foundation. Reinforcing bars tie the thickened slab edge to the piles. In soils where drainage and frost is a problem, additional piles in the centre of the foundation may be required to prevent movement.</p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-71725985334430041292008-01-08T14:43:00.000-08:002008-01-08T15:04:05.799-08:00Site, Solar & House Planning (Part 2)<h2>Room Layout and Traffic Flow</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Traffic flow and stair location are integral parts of successful home layouts. The previous section on interior planning showed that stairs should be located centrally to the plans so that circulation to all spaces is direct and convenient. <a href="http://www.blogger.com/ds03-01.htm">Traffic flow</a> through the home should be as easy and simple as possible. Centrally located entries, as well as stairs, help in simplifying traffic flow in the home.</p><br /><br /><a name="flow"></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvMY3XG5UrHkGHh-H_AnzqOFbvn3bDR5IFrbG5l_CMKVRsL81wZslHFLSt-juPRwh-MTG1B77_gUnezPpuFEew1YCcKeVTiCElbGWoppygm27PEpkBCwgF5Ca6LAfBH_nkNmDWSPuaOkY/s1600-h/052-01.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242071309953538" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Room Layout" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvMY3XG5UrHkGHh-H_AnzqOFbvn3bDR5IFrbG5l_CMKVRsL81wZslHFLSt-juPRwh-MTG1B77_gUnezPpuFEew1YCcKeVTiCElbGWoppygm27PEpkBCwgF5Ca6LAfBH_nkNmDWSPuaOkY/s200/052-01.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Traffic flow in individual rooms should also reflect this simplicity. Locate frequently used items convenient to the user - for example, closets and dressers in bedrooms should be close to the door, not on the other side of obstacles like beds.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUiOQqNfUAcAIIDLC813YHnNJoBYQ5S6KVXt1D8ARycjhQ9pLeHyzgOtsi7O1aTbvnj-0HDvPqmcYVMQh6i9NRUkSMJkQb3uy_5Z2IgOoaWdwXHLUH8yB7XipIhyZGLSCKb5qINbfGkyA/s1600-h/052-03.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242071309953554" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Kitchen Triangle" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUiOQqNfUAcAIIDLC813YHnNJoBYQ5S6KVXt1D8ARycjhQ9pLeHyzgOtsi7O1aTbvnj-0HDvPqmcYVMQh6i9NRUkSMJkQb3uy_5Z2IgOoaWdwXHLUH8yB7XipIhyZGLSCKb5qINbfGkyA/s200/052-03.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Consider how each room can be designed for ease of use, especially those work areas like kitchens and utility rooms. In the kitchen, the sink, range and refrigerator form the corners of the kitchen triangle and the total perimeter length should fall between 15ft and 22ft (4.5m and 6.7m). Millimetres and metres are the common SI system dimensions used for length measurements on plans.</p><br /><br /><br clear="all"><br /><br /><br /><p>Scale drawings and furniture should be used to analyze how each room works in your home. Make sure that the plan and rooms relate well throughout. In the enthusiasm of creating an energy-efficient home, don't overlook the functionality of the plan in terms of a family living space. A wide variety of good software programs are available which can help you develop your floor plans.</p><br /><br /><p>Many energy efficient home plans have horizontal and vertical openings between living spaces so that passively heated air is free to move about the space. In these types of plans, individual room design may be overshadowed by the impact of the entire space. This is important when considering traffic patterns and furniture placement and how the space appears visually from one area to another. Closed plans on the other hand, are subdivided into individual spaces. In these layouts, the rooms are separate. Less importance is given to the overall interior and visual impact.</p><br /><br /><p>Most homes are a combination of closed and open plans. Living, working and activity spaces usually have a degree of openness between them. The kitchen and eating may be combined, hobby and family areas joined, sun spaces and living areas can be linked, or dining and recreation spaces may occur together. Private spaces, such as bedrooms and bathrooms, constitute a closed part to every plan.</p><br /><br /><h3>Designing for a Handicapped Occupant</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiovWoysMIZ43h5ciTtRYiMN3UYX9aG8jKZfZabXTM97M5og-6eTFe2lVS0UUuWr0KWryYspAlMAeLfLvYL3vO47KSQ6-V4WMwi2HGcW5nSUGDpJQHbTCfeA7KwIv-8WqZr6yjajS6P3z4/s1600-h/056-02.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242071309953570" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Clearances For Wheelchairs" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiovWoysMIZ43h5ciTtRYiMN3UYX9aG8jKZfZabXTM97M5og-6eTFe2lVS0UUuWr0KWryYspAlMAeLfLvYL3vO47KSQ6-V4WMwi2HGcW5nSUGDpJQHbTCfeA7KwIv-8WqZr6yjajS6P3z4/s200/056-02.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Special consideration should be given to handicapped occupants of your home during the planning stages. The degree of handicap will of course govern how a plan and construction must be modified. Special hardware and doors, heights of countertops, levels of illumination and the elimination of stairs may be factors requiring consideration.</p><br /><br /><p>The most significant changes in planning occur when accommodating occupants requiring wheelchairs. The graphic illustrates some of the design criteria involved in making sure adequate manouvering room is left in the home.</p><br /><br /><br clear="all"><br /><br /><br /><p>On-grade entries can eliminate the need for exterior ramps and will provide much safer winter access. Hallways should be at least 36 inches (900mm) wide with clear access provided to doorways - small jogs or angles should be avoided. Any house plan can be easily changed in order to accommodate a person confined to a wheelchair.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h2>Initial Planning Steps - A Summary</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>The key to a successful home design lies in the accommodation of the occupant's needs, wishes, tastes and lifestyles. In a home planning exercise, the following steps have to be considered.</p><br /><br /><ul><br /><br /><li>Develop a list of spaces and their approximate required sizes.<br /><br /><br /><br /><li>Check that all group and individual needs are met (remembering that small children, elderly or handicapped occupants may have special needs).<br /><br /><br /><br /><li>Combine spaces and functions into 'multi-purpose' rooms or areas to conserve excess building area. Scale furniture should be utilized to determine if areas have enough room for circulation and your furniture pieces.<br /><br /><br /><br /><li>Establish the building shape you require - bungalow, bilevel, One and a half Storey, Two Storey, etc. A rectangular volume, oriented along an east-west axis, is most practical in a cold climate.<br /><br /><br /><br /><li>Using the selected building shape, arrange the interior spaces for ease of circulation, access to stairs and entries, proper zoning of working, living and sleeping areas, and interior/exterior relationships (to views, outdoor recreation areas, entries, etc).<br /><br /><br /><br /><li>Make sure openings (such as doors and windows) are properly located with respect to views, circulation (both interior and exterior), natural light and ventilation, and for passive solar access.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p>Quite often, little thought is given to areas like entries, bathrooms and hobby areas or concepts in window design with regard to function, interior-exterior relationships, or the potential for passive solar heat. Time spent during the initial planning stages can result in an energy efficient home truly tailored to your own family which will provide lasting economy, comfort and satisfaction.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h2>Exterior Design</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Exterior Styles</h3><br /><br /><p>Exterior design should express the inner plan and lifestyle of the inhabitants. Unpretentious, informal and contemporary design frequently illustrates this concept better than earlier architectural styles. Many traditional styles were designed with massive stone or timber walls for structural reasons and to protect the family from the outdoors. Contemporary design tends to emphasize a lighter scale and interior-exterior relationship of spaces. Window and door openings unify interior and exterior activities, views and finishing materials.</p><br /><br /><p>Selecting a house design that fits your style of living and budget, meets your taste and is energy efficient, is difficult. But an energy efficient home operates because of proper design, orientation, construction and operation - the exterior 'cosmetics' applied afterward will not greatly affect energy use. It is personally satisfying, however, to live in a home that is pleasing in appearance.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeB_F7cbwzyR4CKAMPXivb7rpYD3uA6HyfVEneqjdnHXnfSUzpG2HPF6FaYzKVEoq6uXQRbl-QNfEIQGCeOayXPR_6EUqnmoZ7goHDxH9D2Ar8_e8QMhki-3YUlp90RgdSB1IEuUoa1K8/s1600-h/058-02.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242444972108370" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Line In Exterior Design" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeB_F7cbwzyR4CKAMPXivb7rpYD3uA6HyfVEneqjdnHXnfSUzpG2HPF6FaYzKVEoq6uXQRbl-QNfEIQGCeOayXPR_6EUqnmoZ7goHDxH9D2Ar8_e8QMhki-3YUlp90RgdSB1IEuUoa1K8/s200/058-02.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkScVI28W6JYxTZ8zZ7sYwbZNI3ha9jTnE5N_bwM6xLlZPlfVqGGY2AoFHbRevG51gDQdKn7GBYTY204JWBJAanAp69IWompo4O4UXuK8c4E8kWrguvdhSdfoHcWYFMFaroIyqqh-omeQ/s1600-h/057.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242075604920882" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="One Plan - Different Styles" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkScVI28W6JYxTZ8zZ7sYwbZNI3ha9jTnE5N_bwM6xLlZPlfVqGGY2AoFHbRevG51gDQdKn7GBYTY204JWBJAanAp69IWompo4O4UXuK8c4E8kWrguvdhSdfoHcWYFMFaroIyqqh-omeQ/s200/057.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaTl_iXLFh5RWASP84U5luf-R0E_XQKmP8hlRTk1TX3AXoJKRMkn8QdNLoAleoFdN7xF4-bjkw7eat4jN8E_Q3TKiqstcRz0wkb2VkUZie4HvPOGBKZzeotyU0L0wz1nzOv9OHsnOpsfw/s1600-h/058-01.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242444972108354" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Another Plan - Different Styles" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaTl_iXLFh5RWASP84U5luf-R0E_XQKmP8hlRTk1TX3AXoJKRMkn8QdNLoAleoFdN7xF4-bjkw7eat4jN8E_Q3TKiqstcRz0wkb2VkUZie4HvPOGBKZzeotyU0L0wz1nzOv9OHsnOpsfw/s200/058-01.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>As illustrated, convential homes can be transformed to different styles by using exterior finishing materials. Among popular North American houses seen today:</p><br /><br /><ul><br /><br /><li><strong>Colonial</strong> styles are characterized by formal, balanced design, a narrow siding or brick, shutters, small window panes, a columned entry and dormer windows.<br /><br /><li><strong>Tudor</strong> styles show sharp gables, stucco and half-timber construction, bay windows, diagonal mullions and recessed doorways.<br /><br /><li><strong>Spanish</strong> homes show low pitched roofs, white stucco walls, wide overhangs, curved archways, wrought iron details and darkly stained woodwork.<br /><br /><li><strong>Modern</strong> style homes have developed out of an informal lifestyle. General characteristics include careful structure-site integration, open floor plan, shed roofs, larger glass areas, geometric forms and an honest display of finishing materials.<br /><br /><li><strong>Contemporary</strong> housing has developed recently and is most often characterized by the ranch styles used with bungalow homes. The long, low roof with wide overhangs is a dominant feature - but the rambling development is not in keeping with the compact, energy-saving styles required in a low energy home.<br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p>The openings (doors and windows) and exterior finishing materials used on a home can be varied in style and applications to create different home characters. Notice in the illustration how combinations and variations of horizontal, vertical, angular and curvilinear lines can be used to emphasize height, width, depth, volume or mass. Windows especially contribute to pleasing exterior appearances. Uniformity in selection and placement are important in design although unique shapes or sizes, used discreetly, can lend an individualistic appearance to a home.</p><br /><br /><h3>Roof Design</h3><br /><br /><p>The roof is one of the strongest architectural elements of a home. A badly proportioned roof is very distracting. The shape of the roof does more to establish the character of the house than any other single feature. Trying alternate roof lines on a home can be an interesting exercise.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH3WZ3J9VRCSrFDM1NnemwzhSK4nn23VYxdepunDLNtAz8cwhK8jZYK2mVqQoeej1VQWftZecwqGc9RkvhsyzlLFtnFC8YjwvMdveLYAjtg-5YUjcN5qnqJdcSwHYnVtXovhB5eTcdq8c/s1600-h/059.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242449267075682" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Roof Shapes" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH3WZ3J9VRCSrFDM1NnemwzhSK4nn23VYxdepunDLNtAz8cwhK8jZYK2mVqQoeej1VQWftZecwqGc9RkvhsyzlLFtnFC8YjwvMdveLYAjtg-5YUjcN5qnqJdcSwHYnVtXovhB5eTcdq8c/s200/059.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h2>Adapting a Plan to Your Family</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Existing Plan</h3><br /><br /><p>It is difficult to find a home plan that is exactly what you have been looking for. That is because most houses have not been designed specifically for you, your family or your site. On the other hand, many people seem to be able to find a plan that is close to what they want, and any plan can easily be altered. One that you see in a newspaper, a building brochure or at a show home site may appeal to you in general. With a room change here or there, it may be the answer to your housing dreams.</p><br /><br /><p>For convenience in planning, you may want to draw your floor plan on paper at a scale of 1:50 - which means that every millimetre on paper equals 50mm in actual size or a scale of 1/4 inch equals one foot. If you use this scale when drawing, it will be easy to use scale furniture for planning and a draftsperson will readily be able to follow your ideas. It also saves time to have 'onionskin-type' tracing paper on hand so that you can trace proposed changes or alterations on it in pencil right over top of your original floor plans.</p><br /><br /><p>Making one or two changes to an existing plan is an easy modification. Simple internal changes could include removing or altering closets and storage areas, changing bathroom layouts, revising kitchen/eating arrangements, or altering entry locations. If this plan were used on a farm or acreage, the family may want to revise it as shown so that a better 'mud room' and air lock is provided at the most frequently used entry (through the garage).</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBQBJLYksg8K_pYqCBkaoniaqaMXiewV0-TqRGKudGWYcWOCCcOteWveqa47YQM0A8YMADTinRe4lvDAsn1gOmCxtciHn3PoHMxt_tzSqzWGjdaDHZlDKKCDRivITFnKWNpzCtkinO3aM/s1600-h/060.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242449267075698" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Simple Plan Revision" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBQBJLYksg8K_pYqCBkaoniaqaMXiewV0-TqRGKudGWYcWOCCcOteWveqa47YQM0A8YMADTinRe4lvDAsn1gOmCxtciHn3PoHMxt_tzSqzWGjdaDHZlDKKCDRivITFnKWNpzCtkinO3aM/s200/060.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><h3>Changing an Existing Plan</h3><br /><br /><p>A more major interior modification could be made to change the entire character of a plan. Major internal modifications might include changing one or two bedrooms into work and hobby areas or increasing storage space. This floor plan shows a revised kitchen/livingroom area to make it a more open-type plan. Instead of isolating the living area from the kitchen/eating space, all three functions can occur together - just the 'closed-to open' plan alteration that may suit an active family. </p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGUggYfhvhA9q75_VwqXIEDn-LtdbjMpPJ_0URDbgSR8xSc6CCARgIZQ-O4ohpBMw_1FbxOJ8Zk8I7_oGLDhIooUKMqjYho4UQ-_bBCLJmZMhHaIwgKITtQEwY77Wudhp-X0FJ982be2c/s1600-h/061-01.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242453562043010" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Opening Out A Plan" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGUggYfhvhA9q75_VwqXIEDn-LtdbjMpPJ_0URDbgSR8xSc6CCARgIZQ-O4ohpBMw_1FbxOJ8Zk8I7_oGLDhIooUKMqjYho4UQ-_bBCLJmZMhHaIwgKITtQEwY77Wudhp-X0FJ982be2c/s200/061-01.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Altering the exterior appearance also falls under this category. If you have a floor plan you like, coupled with an exterior design you don't, just remember that appearance is usually only skin deep. Relocating windows or doors, differing exterior finishes or differing roof lines can drastically change the exterior look. The exterior design section showed how the same basic plan could be used to create a number of 'different looks'.</p><br /><br /><h3>Expanding an Existing Plan</h3><br /><br /><p>Few new home plans are conceived with the idea that one day the home might easily be expanded to meet additional needs. However, an expandable house may be the answer for a young couple with no children and limited finances. By initially planning for a home that can easily be added to at a later date, you can have a home in the end which meets the basic requirements for function, economy and individuality. Illustrated is a simple, expandable house plan. Two bedrooms are added as the family and their financial capabilities grow.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXxNO5ZTeWV-0lg1pFPEU3Bi-Zc7zm9hiQKDDKraTBVpUCVuh4Zzk51cB-N41PPGIEqLwzb8G_wtpP8sfKLpbuMdE_3oadqHK6Ep_3gxHyVGImLJY94BQO2IVSpjIXBLkQA9AFLsiwcLc/s1600-h/19.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242067014986226" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Expanding a Plan" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXxNO5ZTeWV-0lg1pFPEU3Bi-Zc7zm9hiQKDDKraTBVpUCVuh4Zzk51cB-N41PPGIEqLwzb8G_wtpP8sfKLpbuMdE_3oadqHK6Ep_3gxHyVGImLJY94BQO2IVSpjIXBLkQA9AFLsiwcLc/s200/19.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Another approach to planning for expansion shows how the desired plan is only partially built initially. The rooms adopt their final use when the plan is completed - in this case, when the garage and entry section is added.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjgYk2A-eD7YFEjHOvylBLvhYfShlsrR6oiVPxkl44j7XCsDoexcZxl5N1AyZhP8o67brCq8bfQnIJx-aArOY67xqqf46fhc7Bip0NsHIoi31-srSTDfyLOSKzCZyqJ63BORf8L7-mpXk/s1600-h/061-02.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242814339295890" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Planning For Expansion" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjgYk2A-eD7YFEjHOvylBLvhYfShlsrR6oiVPxkl44j7XCsDoexcZxl5N1AyZhP8o67brCq8bfQnIJx-aArOY67xqqf46fhc7Bip0NsHIoi31-srSTDfyLOSKzCZyqJ63BORf8L7-mpXk/s200/061-02.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>It is difficult to build in the capability of adding to a basement- type foundation. Because of this limitation, additions are often constructed on crawlspace or slab type foundations. However, when completing your initial planning be sure to allow for future planned development. This includes water, sewer, electrical and heating needs so that the services are properly sized for any additions and can easily be connected in the future.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h2>Adapting a Plan to Fit Your Site</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Most energy efficient home designs show ideal elevations and site slopes. However, your site may be flat or have a north facing slope as opposed to the ideal south-facing situation. The basic rules of minimizing east, west and north windows still apply but the amount of south-facing glazing may have to be reduced for a home built on a north-facing slope. Site protection and unobstructed winter sun requirements still apply.</p><br /><br /><p>Different slope situations can also affect entries. A bilevel entry change shown is a possible solution to building this home on a flat site.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Kx1sb7NOsENMwmyAEzDR0Sst6iv2zCkL4M99wcyYNTJOTQinZu9sGkcpD2cr1zcEP8JOlEEcQpeF10Kp4JCok8nn5AcIowtSFp-Af1NamyNB-UgBU4HDFRbW5TRNiIsyf8OdzRp4VUk/s1600-h/062.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242818634263202" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Altering An Entry" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Kx1sb7NOsENMwmyAEzDR0Sst6iv2zCkL4M99wcyYNTJOTQinZu9sGkcpD2cr1zcEP8JOlEEcQpeF10Kp4JCok8nn5AcIowtSFp-Af1NamyNB-UgBU4HDFRbW5TRNiIsyf8OdzRp4VUk/s200/062.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Proper orientation for views and solar gain may be another concern in siting. This plan is shown drawn again in a mirror image. Note how the space orientation changes. If you have selected a floor plan and suspect a reverse image would improve the layout on your site, hold the plan up to a mirror and evaluate the effect.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3C4af2DzxUNmlGM6AHIQtp9YbRcVgMqjdG39sylEc0uLNxrhSoMfjxs4JmiRnHDc2KmOhMUXHLBIgzhtmoWiJgeHniEMgLGjMYd86VLPtaY7Jt-J6Znu3mvoJq24psUJHoJL19w64438/s1600-h/063-01.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242818634263218" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Reversing A Plan" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3C4af2DzxUNmlGM6AHIQtp9YbRcVgMqjdG39sylEc0uLNxrhSoMfjxs4JmiRnHDc2KmOhMUXHLBIgzhtmoWiJgeHniEMgLGjMYd86VLPtaY7Jt-J6Znu3mvoJq24psUJHoJL19w64438/s200/063-01.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p align="center">The reversed image of this plan shows how each room orientation is changed.</p><br /><br /><p>Adapting a plan for your site will most probably involve a combination of changes. This plan shows an example of adapting a plan for family considering this home for a rural site, with access from the south-west, and wanting an attached garage with mudroom. The revised plan could be as shown. A larger laundry/mudroom entry provides the link to the garage, with an airlock foyer and more coat storage space provided in the house itself (the plan was reversed to allow a view from the kitchen to the yard). In this case, the garage provides a good buffer against winter winds and the bedroom windows are oriented east of south for excellent morning light and passive gain.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQht9SCjA3Cv94sYj9SdDj5ZKnZfNPenKOUNeK0wjnKbtnQuYHt8BC6hquW4uskWuSDui7UVqepjvYN3YY-2IkdGB8axcX6pGeYwE5aK0rXIe6UDB7s-0wFFjN74lyzlR1lsLOHTayw3Q/s1600-h/063-02.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153242822929230530" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Major Plan Revisions" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQht9SCjA3Cv94sYj9SdDj5ZKnZfNPenKOUNeK0wjnKbtnQuYHt8BC6hquW4uskWuSDui7UVqepjvYN3YY-2IkdGB8axcX6pGeYwE5aK0rXIe6UDB7s-0wFFjN74lyzlR1lsLOHTayw3Q/s200/063-02.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Adapting a plan to your particular needs and site can vary from a simple position change to complex interior alterations and additions. Any plan you see on paper is just that - and changes are easy at that point. Even plans for premanufactured alternatives such as modular, sectional or package homes can be altered to a large degree. Partitions can be moved, doors and windows altered or finishes changed. If you visit a show home that appeals to you, find out where drawings are available. For a small fee, they too can readily be altered so that the resulting home will fit you and your family both now and in the future.</p><br /><br /></blockquote>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-2423503304578885522008-01-08T14:26:00.000-08:002008-01-08T14:41:22.237-08:00Site, Solar & House Planning (Part 1)<h2>Introduction</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>There are three design considerations which need to be given extra attention during the planning stage of building an energy efficient home or if planning a major energy efficient renovation of an existing home.</p><br /><br /><p>The housing site and prevailing winds or lack of, need to be considered. Natural ventilation, harsh winter winds or natural protection (trees, berms, buildings) can all effect long term comfort and home energy performance. Solar access combined with the house shape and placement on the building site also has a great effect on overall performance and comfort. The floor plan and interior layout in relation to your particular current and future family's wants and needs, is an equally important design consideration.</p><br /><br /><p>This section details these important design considerations as a part of the 'house as a system' planning approach. Although energy efficient housing can be built with any style or type of housing, on any site or compass direction - winds, natural protection and solar energy are free and produce no pollutants. Changes made at the planning stage regarding these design considerations have very little cost but can produce significant lifetime improvements in home energy usage, comfort and usability.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h2>Initial Planning</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Site Planning</h3><br /><br /><p>An ideal site for designing and building an energy efficient home, would have full solar access and protection from the harsh elements of nature. These type of building sites however, are often found only in acreage or rural settings. Unfortunately most urban building sites and housing developments are laid out for ease of development and access, looks and location, or convenience to main service roads.</p><br /><br /><p>Fortunately, energy efficient housing works on any site or lot, with any style or type of housing, on any compass orientation. Although your lot may not have any solar access you can still build an energy efficient home.</p><br /><br /><p>When planning your building site you must know the prevailing winds in your area to take advantage of them. Shelter from the winter winds and cross ventilation from the summer winds can be incorporated into the planning stage. Housing on urban lots must consider the effects on wind flows and daylight, that the adjoining lot development and house placement will have. Information regarding wind direction and speed is available from most local weather offices.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq4_4YdCXOqV5L84RWolk7-9AxZ218vJUnjFyQ4K2UZ64JIHKYeWvZdognLnLEbS5_D96vYcyV11rulkz9DyglKVisQr-9H5Dsef1yoRp3GPgcPqciKLLTtD1gcRtBmTXPWZBupxuYJYs/s1600-h/048.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236294578940210" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Wind and the Site" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq4_4YdCXOqV5L84RWolk7-9AxZ218vJUnjFyQ4K2UZ64JIHKYeWvZdognLnLEbS5_D96vYcyV11rulkz9DyglKVisQr-9H5Dsef1yoRp3GPgcPqciKLLTtD1gcRtBmTXPWZBupxuYJYs/s200/048.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><p>If the immediate environment around the home is well protected, entries will be more comfortable to use, outdoor play spaces will be usable on sunny winter days and outdoor eating areas will remain pleasant from spring until fall. As the illustrations show, vegetation and soil berms can be used to control winds around a site.</p><br /><br /><h3>Site Planning</h3><br /><br /><p>An energy efficient home is not necessarily a solar home, but solar energy can, and often is used, to further lower energy consumption. This applies only if the site conditions allow good solar access (a southern exposure). In a cold climate, solar energy has the potential to supply 20 to 60 per cent or more of the heating requirement of a home.</p><br /><br /><p>To maximize solar potential the home must be the proper shape and have unobstructed solar access. The optimum building shape is one which gains the maximum solar energy in the winter yet has the least exposed exterior surface area. The sphere has the least surface area in terms of volume enclosed and is the most efficient, but is not a very practical building shape. A square offers a more practical building shape, but southern surface area can be limited. The rectangular shape offers the best compromise for solar gain since it exposes a larger area to the sun while keeping the total surface area to a practical minimum.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdkiTaDstaQpwV3dZHMouV6IbJDuem3PQRS0bmOqOAmvgnFlBtsJAe1Y4WCDywiC3sAZx5HPaFcBwtzZzXgCJIDK7cKtNqTy1-rW5OafINDFRH1T_AExchCKckT1XrujNanwP5GeYzlsQ/s1600-h/049-03.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236298873907538" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Optimum Building Shape" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdkiTaDstaQpwV3dZHMouV6IbJDuem3PQRS0bmOqOAmvgnFlBtsJAe1Y4WCDywiC3sAZx5HPaFcBwtzZzXgCJIDK7cKtNqTy1-rW5OafINDFRH1T_AExchCKckT1XrujNanwP5GeYzlsQ/s200/049-03.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>An elongated rectangular shape along an east-west axis exposes the longer south side to maximum heat gain in the winter.</p><br /><br /><p>Research has shown that a long side to short side ration of 1.5 to 1.0 is optimum in a cold climate. The low winter sun shines almost directly on the vertical south side. Windows will then intercept the maximum amount of solar radiation available during the winter months.</p><br /><br /><br clear="all"><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h2>Solar Planning</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Solar Access</h3><br /><br /><p>No obstacles should be in the way of the low angle rays of winter sun. This solar access must be clear from about 9.00 a.m to 3.00 p.m when over 90% of the winter solar radiation occurs. If the sun is blocked for even one hour, up to 20% of this energy will not be available. <em><strong>Remember, some deciduous trees, even without their leaves, can block up to 50% of the sun.</strong></em></p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTNnwrGpNfwlTYngYL2VEc-0rxXRBBjipgimLdPbpw8gq7Xx42IFioHqxpHl5FtQ_zyV5QBH8Xe9AmZ-bmbQtoF6AMOyK12y7QYkUdAE40ZHKg3nqX3oT2G37X-JvqVxnmueZTnoXRUr8/s1600-h/049-02.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236294578940226" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Shading" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTNnwrGpNfwlTYngYL2VEc-0rxXRBBjipgimLdPbpw8gq7Xx42IFioHqxpHl5FtQ_zyV5QBH8Xe9AmZ-bmbQtoF6AMOyK12y7QYkUdAE40ZHKg3nqX3oT2G37X-JvqVxnmueZTnoXRUr8/s200/049-02.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>The Long side can face as much as 30 degrees east or west of true south and still receive over 90% of the available solar energy. This means quite a degree of flexibility when siting the home. Orienting most south-facing windows to the east of true south means early warming of rooms in the winter. Orienting the windows more to the west of true south allows more afternoon warming although this will require additional shading during the summer months to avoid possible overheating.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1qkz1vFH8PYcsn5qpaXULWl6KaiCjw9sOY2fMNbJ21ZKRf4sEeAEfzR2eY8zwSpGRI7YfmUP-C3PCwzdk4BRyEEVkzZqnXByGpB64wYbqQ06S6tvh2ja77m5XEU_K3v2ttSdtSbfIa1E/s1600-h/050-01.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236298873907570" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Energy Efficient Building Orientation" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1qkz1vFH8PYcsn5qpaXULWl6KaiCjw9sOY2fMNbJ21ZKRf4sEeAEfzR2eY8zwSpGRI7YfmUP-C3PCwzdk4BRyEEVkzZqnXByGpB64wYbqQ06S6tvh2ja77m5XEU_K3v2ttSdtSbfIa1E/s200/050-01.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Summer Shading</h3><br /><br /><p>During the summer, the south side receives less solar radiation than the roof because the sun is higher above the horizon. Overhangs can be designed to block the sun and control overheating by shading windows in the summer.</p><br /><br /><p>The length of overhang required is calculated by dividing the distance from the underside of the overhang to the sill of the window by 1.7. This length of overhang would then shade the window from late May to early August for most central Canadian climate latitudes. When the sun is lower in the sky the window becomes less shaded so all available solar energy enters during the heaviest heating season - November to March. West facing windows are subject to overheating all year long because the setting sun is low no matter what the season and will require extra shading or Low-E window units.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRoIAX8Ka2ZLZuKRmIaYoKdr_NBOTp8IFd8sr1A92lJXjvYFCmbMivX1QgL7rODBYHrL635nFwl-3WhQMLIr6m3nB-DaYsR0pdw38UvLT0_m7Phn5NF5I6n3_kpWervYt3YiqjRhWWBOs/s1600-h/050-02.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236655356193154" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Overhang Length" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRoIAX8Ka2ZLZuKRmIaYoKdr_NBOTp8IFd8sr1A92lJXjvYFCmbMivX1QgL7rODBYHrL635nFwl-3WhQMLIr6m3nB-DaYsR0pdw38UvLT0_m7Phn5NF5I6n3_kpWervYt3YiqjRhWWBOs/s200/050-02.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><p align="center">Check with your local weather office or service for winter sun angles for your area.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h2>Passive Solar</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Passive solar energy systems require no energy to operate and are an intrinsic part of the home design. Passive systems add little additional cost, operate with almost no supervision and require little or no maintenance. The basic elements of all passive systems are south-facing windows and internal thermal mass. Solar heating is simply sunlight entering the house that is absorbed and converted into heat energy which is later released inside the house as it cools. Any house with south facing windows can be a solar home.</p><br /><br /><p>An energy efficient passive solar home works through proper design which makes good use of the sun's energy for heating and lighting. while providing the opportunity for sunny rooms, attached sunrooms and solariums. With reasonable solar access, almost any plan or style of house can incorporate passive solar features. An energy efficient home is not necessarily a solar home, but solar energy is very effective at lowering energy consumption and associated costs.</p><br /><br /><p>Attached sunspaces and solariums have become more popular as a way to lengthen our growing season and enjoy a little more time in the sun. With a great variety of styles available, sunspaces fall into two broad categories of freestanding and lean-to types. Solariums are usually incorporated into the internal dimensions of a home.</p><br /><br /><p>Sunspaces and solariums work by admitting solar heat (sunlight) which is absorbed by the materials inside it - concrete or tile floors, masonry walls in sunspaces attached to homes, storage containers of water, wooden plant benches full of dirt - the greater the mass, the more heat the space will be able to absorb.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9FQsuc99FUo7NKnxATtbxBGqyTnwv8VaOkjwOCoxgztJnSwPrpBV6rCEaMrFnbYNAkXCBEvYj5tal0dx16UF1VRZA30rth0t649122e1fwWiHX_ydmz_iFtB0rd46_LGv5yolgA1NijE/s1600-h/049-04.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236298873907554" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Winter Solar Energy Access" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9FQsuc99FUo7NKnxATtbxBGqyTnwv8VaOkjwOCoxgztJnSwPrpBV6rCEaMrFnbYNAkXCBEvYj5tal0dx16UF1VRZA30rth0t649122e1fwWiHX_ydmz_iFtB0rd46_LGv5yolgA1NijE/s200/049-04.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><h3>Direct Gain</h3><br /><br /><p>The simplest passive solar heating design is the 'Direct Gain' approach. This means that the space within the house or sunroom is heated by direct sunlight. If the space is used as a solar collector, then it must also contain a method of absorbing and storing enough daytime heat to be useful at night. The house itself becomes a sort of live-in solar collector with heat storage and distribution built right in. Direct gain systems work continually collecting solar energy from either direct sunlight or diffused light through clouds or haze.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMkHTp93_7kgjdR80vp94HMRwuEaterv7kRumZh5kod72Es0jwjCYvlRbgZJGenEaPA-RZxS1Fz2W96Q_j-nsDPV21dgViVR178upFKevC7NU2vXXAf9TXOeTxiK8XOzRPlfdiLt0i_t4/s1600-h/085-01.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236659651160498" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Direct Gain Passive System" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMkHTp93_7kgjdR80vp94HMRwuEaterv7kRumZh5kod72Es0jwjCYvlRbgZJGenEaPA-RZxS1Fz2W96Q_j-nsDPV21dgViVR178upFKevC7NU2vXXAf9TXOeTxiK8XOzRPlfdiLt0i_t4/s200/085-01.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><p>With the direct gain approach, south facing glass is exposed to the maximum amount of solar energy in winter and the minimum amount of solar gain in summer. Since a portion of this heat can be captured and stored for use at night, the walls and/or floors need to be constructed of materials capable of storing additional heat.</p><br /><br /><p>This interior heat storage helps prevent large fluctuations of indoor temperatures during the day while storing the extra heat for later use. The most common mass used is composed of masonry materials such as brick, floor tile, masonry, stone or concrete, although water storage can be used as well. Phase change materials which can store tremendous amounts of heat energy are being developed but are currently not widely available and are costly.</p><br /><br /><p>Most homes contain enough thermal mass in walls, floors and furniture to absorb the energy coming in through south-glazing sized at a maximum of 8 to 10% of the total floor area.</p><br /><br /><p>In northern latitudes, less glass area is often used to reduce excessive winter heat loss. Energy efficient homes which have very low heat losses will also require less south glass area, unless the internal thermal mass is increased to avoid overheating. Problems with direct gain passive solar homes can include glare and sunlight-faded fabrics.</p><br /><br /><p>If the window area increases (10 to 15% or more) relative to floor area, then special glazings and additional thermal mass will be required. This mass can be in the form of a concrete floor, heavy floor tiles, masonry planters, masonry or brick feature walls, a stone or concrete fireplace, or some type of water storage container. As a general rule, for each one square foot (1m2) of south-facing glass in a space over the 10% maximum, one needs five square feet (5m²) of masonry four inches thick (100mm) or the equivalent in increased thermal mass (a ratio of 1:5). Because mass absorbs and releases heat slowly, expect wide temperature swings in the order of 10°F (5°C) in direct gain spaces with larger window areas.</p><br /><br /><p>Where large window areas are involved, there are two methods for reducing nighttime heat loss, which in cold climates can be very high. The first is the use of current window technology which combines Low-E coated glazings, insulating spacers and insulating gases between panes to provide R values above 5 (RSI-0.87). Specialty Low-E coated glazings and window films can also be used to help control excessive heat gain and ultraviolet. The other is the use of window insulation at night to help reduce heat loss.</p><br /><br /><p>Studies in Canada and the northern U.S. have shown that a conservative passive solar approach is more economical in both capital cost and performance. This approach starts by super-insulating and air sealing the building to reduce the heat load as much as possible. A small amount of well insulated, south facing glass allows direct solar heat gain without incurring radical temperature swings within the building. Instead of adding extra tons of rock in or under the structure, existing mass in the form of flooring (tiles) and additional gypsum wallboard and (perhaps some strategically placed masonry), is utilized. This approach adds very little cost as only the windows need to be upgraded. The collection, storage and distribution of heat within a purely passive home is done without mechanical devices using convection and radiation.</p><br /><br /><h3>Indirect Gain</h3><br /><br /><p>Indirect Gain is when sunlight strikes a thermal mass which is located between the sun and the space to be heated. The sunlight absorbed by the mass is converted to thermal energy and then transferred into the living space. The most common type of indirect gain system is the thermal storage wall.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2WGZAELnlq2zFDyybmpK066Mg2cvjIz5K-In3a514xan26s6gbwBLWgKDc0PqPDuzVfaj-uRQiEGcFPrZGD2bVzqeT8wCgzGcpR_iuulXXsMEOKduavTxzujNjyyqvlI9lets3lrZJF4/s1600-h/085-02.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236663946127810" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Indirect Gain System" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2WGZAELnlq2zFDyybmpK066Mg2cvjIz5K-In3a514xan26s6gbwBLWgKDc0PqPDuzVfaj-uRQiEGcFPrZGD2bVzqeT8wCgzGcpR_iuulXXsMEOKduavTxzujNjyyqvlI9lets3lrZJF4/s200/085-02.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Trombe Walls are the most commonly known form of indirect gain. The thermal mass wall should be located 4 inches or more directly behind the glass. These walls are usually made of masonry. Alternatives include water walls, roof ponds or attached greenhouses.</p><br /><br /><p>Indirect gain systems can work well with energy efficient homes because of the ability it provides for better control of passive solar heating. In this type of system, the sunlight strikes a thermal mass inside of or in between it and the interior space to be heated. With this system, large areas of glass can be used. The design rule of thumb here is one square foot or metre of south-facing window is required for each square foot or metre of floor area you wish to heat. Insulation of the glass at night is a must to prevent heat loss from the mass to the outside. The mass must be 12 to 18 inches thick (300 to 450 mm ) if masonry or 8 inch thick (200 mm) if water. This type of passive solar collection system works well if there is good solar access and a view you don't mind blocking with mass walls. Thermosiphoning slots at the top and bottom will slightly increase the energy absorbed into the space - but the slots must be blocked at night to prevent the reverse effect (heat being removed from the space).</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h2>Solar Spaces</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Sunspaces and Solariums</h3><br /><br /><p>Attached sunspaces or solariums are often combined direct and indirect gain spaces. They are directly heated but can provide an indirect means of heating the house. These types of spaces usually have lots of glass area and can be subject to severe overheating or heat loss, especially when both the roof and walls are glazed. It is important that the spaces are well designed with provisions for spring, summer and fall ventilation to control heat build-up. One drawback with passive solar sunspaces and greenhouses is that summer overheating can be severe when no one is home to operate manual shading or ventilating devices.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZxQ00GKCQ-CKbcBjTZNXedBsIbrw1uUl1GMwk3Bt29z6-gYDep2NGRas7dALScWHDCNaMvuDUfURvP5Amm8LmpmO2Cz-2pm5KWlOZCez6x3xxGhRKKo_mvK2m03NRnrBA3fqS4N_pjo/s1600-h/086-01.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236818564950482" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Sunspace Ventilation" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZxQ00GKCQ-CKbcBjTZNXedBsIbrw1uUl1GMwk3Bt29z6-gYDep2NGRas7dALScWHDCNaMvuDUfURvP5Amm8LmpmO2Cz-2pm5KWlOZCez6x3xxGhRKKo_mvK2m03NRnrBA3fqS4N_pjo/s200/086-01.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>A simple attached lean-to style sunspace can be a useful heat gathering space - it can stand large temperature swings and can be closed off and not heated in the middle of winter. If designed properly, a sunspace can be an enjoyable, convenient outdoor insect-free space (with large screened openings in summer). It can be used for bedding plants, and to extend the fall tomato harvest but, unless lots of energy is pumped in over the winter months, It can be more economical to leave the sunspace dormant from November to February.</p><br /><br /><p>Most sunspaces however are used year round and often do double duty as small family plant rooms and greenhouses. Sunspaces are most often integrated with the house and heated with the main heating system. A passive solar sunspace can help to reduce the increased heating cost associated with a year round sunspace located in a cold climate.</p><br /><br /><p align="center"><strong><em>Passive solar heating is free and produces no pollutants.</em></strong></p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCcUW-op_FInWpbqADY8tvTzu2njeBpYOU67kgYPpFhgwPwCSC40EVEWg25XPeqwCPVtxUqCnvmcMJPx2iyAYMa3BlsFohtPfeILDBO42aspPiLpSLPaU4Qu6U-PQUk_yLL-ctooiCkoQ/s1600-h/086-02.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236818564950498" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Passive Heat Storage" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCcUW-op_FInWpbqADY8tvTzu2njeBpYOU67kgYPpFhgwPwCSC40EVEWg25XPeqwCPVtxUqCnvmcMJPx2iyAYMa3BlsFohtPfeILDBO42aspPiLpSLPaU4Qu6U-PQUk_yLL-ctooiCkoQ/s200/086-02.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>To help heat the home, mass storage and some method of transferring the heat to the living space is required. This can be a mass wall between the two areas, water storage containers, forced-air distribution system or a rock storage/air distribution system. Some storage bed systems can lead to complicated damper, fan and thermostatic control functions which is not in keeping with the concept of passive collection.</p><br /><br /><h3>Greenhouses</h3><br /><br /><p>A greenhouse is totally different. Plants cannot tolerate large temperature swings, thrive best in high humidity, and require heat in winter and ventilation in summer to survive. The large glass areas need winter insulation and summer shading to create a reasonable atmosphere for growing things. Condensation is often a problem created by the high level of humidity associated with plants. A working, active, attached greenhouse will actually increase the heating costs of your home because it is another room to heat with a high heat loss rate in the winter. Insects can be a problem as well and pesticides should not be used in an airtight structure. A working greenhouse would have to remain isolated to keep pesticide residues out of any attached living space. This would severely limit the greenhouse as an effective passive heat source for the home.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h2>Interior Planning</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Plan Layout and Zoning</h3><br /><br /><p>As pointed out, a rectangular house shape is most efficient in terms of solar energy gain and minimum surface area heat loss. The challenge then becomes one of arranging all the spaces your family needs into that rectangular volume.</p><br /><br /><p>First list all the areas you require. These are the basic requirements such as a kitchen, bedrooms and bathrooms. Just as important are the living spaces, special work areas, storage, mechanical rooms, entries, etc. Beside each space you list, note the area required. Totalling the areas and adding 25 to 30% for circulation, storage space and wall thickness will give you approximate total home area. It may be hard to visualize the size of the spaces you need. Measure the rooms you live in now for ideas on size. Utilize scale furniture in planning each room so that nothing is left out of your plan - you should involve planning for future furniture purchases also. To eliminate future space problems, it is important that sound decisions are made with regard to space. The planning stage is the best time to make them.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheELU3E8UEqFV-CJ5WAscO_swSfOPwYVgc1HBgtgSy2y3tYopOb4Gth-bKuEhO-nh5Oo9JXKMmyzKFtlVqiZCUJcTDdxf647KRbbOCKiYe5Lz0ByMma7A62k19cQpSEtpe9C2n41FC-f0/s1600-h/051-01.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236659651160466" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Energy Efficient House Shapes" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheELU3E8UEqFV-CJ5WAscO_swSfOPwYVgc1HBgtgSy2y3tYopOb4Gth-bKuEhO-nh5Oo9JXKMmyzKFtlVqiZCUJcTDdxf647KRbbOCKiYe5Lz0ByMma7A62k19cQpSEtpe9C2n41FC-f0/s200/051-01.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>As noted in initial planning a rectangular shape offers the best compromise of house volume versus exposed exterior surface area. There are many configurations for a solar-oriented home. A bungalow or bi-level with a fully developed lower level, a two-storey home, or a one and one-half storey house will, as illustrated, result in the basic rectangular shape.</p><br clear="all"><br /><br /><br /><p>The next task is to arrange the spaces required into the desired house shape. Draw each space to approximate scale size as a bubble, rough square or rectangle on a piece of paper. Cut them out and arrange them in different ways to help you visualize a final layout. At this point consider the views from each space, the natural light and ventilation requirements, and the room-to-room relationships.</p><br /><br /><p>Analyze each room individually with regard to windows and doors, then how it will relate to other rooms in the plan. Certain rooms, such as living or family rooms, require lots of natural light, can be good passively heated spaces and will be used by all family members - these rooms are termed the living zone. Other rooms, such as the kitchen, utility and bathroom areas, require plumbing, more artificial light, lots of storage facilities and are referred to as the working zone. Quiet, private bedroom areas are called the sleeping zone. An important aspect of successful planning is maintaining separate zones - keeping noisy and quiet areas apart.</p><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7PyCaDOoQlpeDOocgmuSZUj29EU9Y6y52eIZOvLupP9KzQiQ9OJTxSQLueELlfjJVHbP7Uurpi-GejQVEOAyEuJc2Zxngup7fXIBUXXR22waP1rFfReUlpA5DmS0T9zqBMY99UDqWVlE/s1600-h/051-03.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153236659651160482" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Single Level Sketch Layout" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7PyCaDOoQlpeDOocgmuSZUj29EU9Y6y52eIZOvLupP9KzQiQ9OJTxSQLueELlfjJVHbP7Uurpi-GejQVEOAyEuJc2Zxngup7fXIBUXXR22waP1rFfReUlpA5DmS0T9zqBMY99UDqWVlE/s200/051-03.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Consider solar energy when laying out the rooms for an energy-efficient home. The graphic illustrates a potential bungalow layout which places the working zone (requiring few windows) on the north side, the sleeping zone on the east side (where early morning sun is appreciated) and the living zone on the south side (where the sun can warm the spaces during the day).</p><br /><br /><a name="bi"></a><br /><br /><p>If the lower level is to be developed, 'vertical' zoning is also important. The potential <a href="http://www.blogger.com/ds02-01.htm">bilevel layout plan</a> shows how the three individual zones are kept separate vertically (one above the other) as well as horizontally. Isolating bedroom and living areas above one another keeps quiet areas well separated from the lived-in zones.</p><br /><br /><p>In any home plan compromises usually have to be made. Some areas requiring windows may be on the north, bedrooms may face west because there isn't room for all of them on the east, or vertical zoning rules may be broken - as often is the case in a two-storey home.</p><br /><br /><a name="tri"></a><br /><br /><p>The three levels shown in the <a href="http://www.blogger.com/ds02-02.htm">illustration</a>, have been arranged for solar access to all living and sleeping areas. The utility room, bathrooms, entries, and the garage have been placed as a buffer on the north side.</p><br /><br /></blockquote>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-3261135539118845922008-01-08T11:54:00.000-08:002008-01-08T12:24:23.624-08:00Attic Insulation<h3>ATTIC - INTRODUCTION</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>In heating climates, anywhere between 10% and 15% of a buildings total heat loss can be through the ceiling into the attic. Half (50%) of this heat loss is by conduction, which is heat flowing right through the attic insulation and framing. Air leakage through tiny holes, openings and cracks accounts for the remaining 50% of the heat loss, as well as being the cause of attic condensation and moisture build-up problems. The importance of effective air sealing cannot be overstated.</p><br /><br /><p>High insulation levels (R-values) in ceilings or attics (*) are recommended in almost all cold climate housing guidelines. As these areas are usually easily accessible, with few obstructions, it is here that extra insulation is usually added. Walls and other areas of the house tend to be over-looked, due to the high cost of upgrading the insulation in sealed and finished assemblies. The truth is, that other areas such as unfinished basements and uninsulated walls will typically lose more heat than the attic. The reason is that even though warm air rises; <em><strong>heat</strong></em> always travels toward the coldest area regardless of direction. </p><br /><br /><p>In houses with attics, the cost to increase insulation levels is only the additional material and installation costs. Houses with cathedral ceilings are more complex to insulate and have an increased cost compared to standard attics, but are still far less expensive to upgrade than wall insulation levels. Higher insulation levels accomplish two things, first, it reduces winter heat loss through the ceiling to a minimum level and secondly, it greatly reduces summer heat penetration from the attic into the home interior, thereby reducing overheating and summer cooling loads. </p><br /><br /><p>There are four main factors to be considered when insulating attics or roofs; </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Framing structures must allow space for adequate insulation plus room for ventilation above the insulation.<br /><li>Framing should allow for the full thickness of insulation to be applied over the exterior wall top plates.<br /><li>The insulated ceiling needs a properly installed air/vapour barrier under the insulation which must be sealed airtight.<br /><li>Proper attic ventilation is required to remove any moisture buildup and help to reduce summer heat buildup.<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p>(*) Recommended levels for ceiling R-values with standard construction (R-12 to R-20 [RSI 2.11 to RSI 3.5] wall insulation) are R-34 to R-40 (RSI 6 to RSI 7.05). Recommended ceiling insulation levels for super insulated homes (higher than R20 [RSI 3.5] wall insulation) are R 60 (RSI 10.5). </p><br /><br /><p align="center"><strong><em>Check local building codes for insulation and ventilation requirements for your area.</em></strong></p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>ATTIC - INSULATION MATERIALS</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Batt Insulation</h3><br /><br /><h4>Glass Fibre</h4><br /><br /><p>Glass Fibre Batts are manufactured from glass which is spun into long fibres, then woven and coated with a binding agent. Batts are light weight, fit standard joist and stud spaces and if installed carefully will not slump or settle. They do not, however, readily fit into irregular spaces and can leave 'insulation voids' around obstructions (nails, electrical wires, trusses, etc.). During installation glass fibre can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation and manufacturer's safety<br />recommendations should be followed. Average R-value is 3.2 per inch (RSI .022/mm). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Manufactured for standard joist and stud spacings<br /><li>Relatively easy to install<br /><li>Fire and mold resistant<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation<br /><li>Does not readily fit into irregular spaces<br /><li>Can leave 'insulation voids' around obstructions if care is not taken during installation<br /><li>Air movement around the insulation can significantly degrade R-value<br /><li>Should not be covered with heavier insulation or other materials which may compress it<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Mineral Wool (Slag and Rock Wool)</h4><br /><br /><p>Mineral Wool is manufactured from melted industrial slag, which is fiberized and treated with oil and binders to suppress dust and maintain shape. It is similar to glass fibre in texture and appearance. Rock Wool is manufactured in a similar manner except that natural rock is used instead of slag. These materials have a high fire resistance but can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation. </p><br /><br /><p>The average R-value for both slag and rock wool batts is 3.3 per inch (RSI 0.023). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Manufactured for standard joist and stud spacings<br /><li>Relatively easy to install<br /><li>Good material for insulating around chimneys, since it doesn't support combustion<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation<br /><li>Should not be covered with heavier insulation or other materials which may compress it<br /><li>Does not readily fit into irregular spaces<br /><li>Can leave 'insulation voids' around obstructions if care is not taken during installation<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h3>Loose Fill Insulation</h3><br /><br /><h4>Cellulose Fibre</h4><br /><br /><p>Cellulose fibre insulation is made from finely shredded newsprint which is chemically treated to resist fire and fungal growth. Due to the small size of the particles, cellulose can 'flow' around obstructions (nails, electrical wires, trusses, etc.) to give a uniform fill. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Blown Cellulose</strong> has an average R-value of 3.6 per inch (RSI<br />0.025/mm) which is dependant on the chemical, paper type and it's blown density. If the insulation is not blown to manufacturer's recommended density it can settle over time, and the intended R-value will not be obtained. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Poured Cellulose</strong> has an average R-value of 3.4 per inch (RSI 0.024/mm) and must be applied to the manufacturer's recommendations to achieve desired density and R-value. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Fills irregular horizontal spaces<br /><li>Blown-In Cellulose can be installed with rented equipment or hand poured<br /><li>Chemical additives provide fire, corrosion, vermin and fungal growth resistance<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on the materials R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Should not be covered with heavier insulation or other materials which may compress it<br /><li>Will settle over time, manufacturer's recommendations should be followed to achieve desired<br />R-value<br /><li>Will compress and harden if subject to high moisture levels<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Glass Fibre</h4><br /><br /><p>Blown Glass Fibre is a similar material to glass fibre batts, except that the material is 'chopped up'. It has an R-value of 2.9 per inch (RSI 0.02/mm), which is reduced if it is not blown to the proper density. The particles in glass fibre tend to be larger than those in cellulose, therefore it doesn't always flow as freely around obstructions and can leave insulation voids. As with the batts, during<br />installation glass fibre can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation and manufacturer's safety recommendations should be followed. </p><br /><br /><p>Poured Glass Fibre has basically the same properties as the blown product except its R-value is usually slightly higher, R-3 per inch (RSI 0.021/mm). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Fills irregular horizontal spaces<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on the materials R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation<br /><li>Should not be covered with heavier insulation or other materials which may compress it<br /><li>Can settle over time if not blown properly, (manufacturer's recommendations should be<br />followed)<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Mineral Wool (Slag and Rock Wool)</h4><br /><br /><p>Mineral Wool is manufactured from melted industrial slag, which is fiberized and treated with oil and binders to suppress dust and maintain shape. It is similar to glass fibre in texture and appearance. Rock Wool is manufactured in a similar manner except that natural rock is used instead of slag. </p><br /><br /><p>The properties listed below refer to both types of insulation. </p><br /><br /><p>The blown material has an R-value of 2.7 per inch (RSI 0.019), and as with all blown materials this will vary depending upon the installed density. These types of materials have a high fire resistance but can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation. </p><br /><br /><p>The poured material has the same characteristics as the blown material, but with a slightly higher R-value, R-3 per inch (RSI 0.021). Manufacturer's recommendations should be followed for installation techniques. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Good material for insulating around chimneys, since it doesn't support combustion<br /><li>Fills irregular horizontal spaces<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on the materials R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation<br /><li>Should not be covered with heavier insulation or other materials which may compress it<br /><li>Can settle over time if not blown properly, (manufacturer's recommendations should be<br />followed)<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Vermiculite</h4><br /><br /><p>Vermiculite is a mineral closely related to mica, which when heated, expands to form a light weight material with insulating properties. There are two types of vermiculite: untreated and treated. The treated material is coated with asphalt to make it water-repellent for use in high moisture areas. Untreated vermiculite absorbs water, and once wet, dries very slowly. </p><br /><br /><p>Untreated vermiculite has an R-value of 2.3 per inch (RSI 0.016/mm) compared to R-2.5 (RSI 0.017) for the treated material. Vermiculite is usually hand-installed, and is suitable for both horizontal and vertical applications. It is non-combustible, odourless and non-irritating, although due to its high density it is not usually the material of choice where a high R-value is desired. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Pours easily into irregular spaces<br /><li>Non-combustible<br /><li>Non-abrasive, odourless and non-irritating<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Dries very slowly after absorbing moisture<br /><li>Not usually used where high R-value desired<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Wood Shavings</h4><br /><br /><p>Wood shavings, although rarely used today, were once a very popular insulation product due to their wide availability and low cost. Shavings were often treated with lime or other chemicals, to increase resistance to water absorption, fire and fungal growth. This insulation product is still a common sight in older homes across North America. </p><br /><br /><p>Wood shavings have an average R-value of 2.44 per inch (RSI 0.0169/mm). They tend to absorb moisture and dry very slowly. Over time the material may settle and is hard to effectively treat against fire, vermin and fungal growth. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Readily available and inexpensive<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Low R-value<br /><li>Dries very slowly after absorbing moisture<br /><li>Hard to effectively treat against fire, vermin and fungal growth<br /><li>Can settle over time<br /></li></ul><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><br /><h3>ATTIC - VENTILATION</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>There are three traditional reasons for ventilation of an attic or roof space. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>1.</strong> The first is ventilation to control humidity and minimize condensation on the attic or roof framing, sheathing and insulation. </p><br /><br /><p>The concept is that air flow through the attic or roof cavity will remove any excess moisture build-up. In theory this sounds good, but in reality, the air moving through the attic or roof cavity, during the heating season, is cold and can hold very little water vapour. </p><br /><br /><p>As long as interior air leakage into the attic or roof cavity is small, standard ventilation should control moisture build-up. If a moisture problem is evident in the attic or roof space, it is usually more effective to seal any leaks in the air/vapour barrier than to increase ventilation in the attic. The best method for<br />reducing condensation or moisture problems in any roof or attic space is to prevent water vapour from entering in the first place. </p><br /><br /><p align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6oklokspHxj2g_WcmKrbALOTnhi-vBCwVqkCkSnkOEFUd4kTjhRQG2hY2RGEeI9wdIO2eOXZafyBF_v8G2BchCWBSrLckOGGnS2kNN94l2_oRrC9_ngZhMXYkszICDa67ZbFyKnRElJg/s1600-h/airleak.gif"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153202007855016210" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6oklokspHxj2g_WcmKrbALOTnhi-vBCwVqkCkSnkOEFUd4kTjhRQG2hY2RGEeI9wdIO2eOXZafyBF_v8G2BchCWBSrLckOGGnS2kNN94l2_oRrC9_ngZhMXYkszICDa67ZbFyKnRElJg/s200/airleak.gif" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Typical Attic Air Leakage Points</p><br /><br /><a name="airleak"></a><br /><br /><p>Listed as an example are the current ventilation requirements for the Canadian National Building Code. </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>1 (one) square foot of venting for each 300 square feet of ceiling area, for roofs over 1 in 6 slope.<br /><li>1 (one) square foot of venting for each 150 square feet of ceiling area for roofs under 1 in 6 slope.<br /><li>Of the total venting, 50% should be soffit venting and 50% roof, gable or ridge venting, equally distributed on opposite sides of the roof to ensure good cross-ventilation. Figures are based on free ventilation area, blockage created by screens or louvres must be accounted for.<br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p align="center"><strong><em>Check your local building code for ventilation requirements in your area.</em></strong></p><br /><br /><p>In Northern Canada, fine particles of wind blown snow can infiltrate into the attic and roof spaces creating moisture problems. Most types of roof and gable vents are quite susceptible to this problem. Since 1988 the Northwest Territories Housing Corporation (Canada) has been building sealed, unvented standard and cathedral roofs without any major moisture problems. This type of roof is now standard for all Public Housing units north of the tree line. Unvented or "hot roofs", are currently not permitted in the Canadian National Building Code except in the North West Territories. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>2.</strong> The second is that ventilation will improve the life expectancy of roofing materials by reducing roofing and roof sheathing temperatures in summer. </p><br /><br /><p>The concept here is that ventilation will reduce summer surface temperatures of roofing materials and extend the usable life span. It is true that higher operating surface temperatures can greatly reduce the service life of roofing materials. Unfortunately, traditional physics and current evidence shows that ventilation is not effective in lowering surface operating temperatures. Operating surface temperatures of roof membranes, shingles and sheathings are far more dependant on<br />colour, orientation, solar intensity and wind exposure than on attic or roof ventilation. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>3.</strong> The third is that ventilation will reduce cooling loads and increase occupant comfort levels during the cooling season. With a poorly insulated (less than R-10) attic or roof assembly, ventilation can reduce cooling loads by as much as 25%. Ventilation however, has little or no effect on the cooling loads of attic or roof assemblies with R-25 or greater insulation levels. </p><br /><br /><h3>Conclusions</h3><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li>The best way to reduce condensation or moisture problems in an attic or roof assembly is to eliminate interior air leakage through the ceiling with a properly installed air/vapour barrier and proper air sealing. Ventilation must still be provided, but at the minimum level allowed by local building codes.<br /><li>Ventilation does not extend the life of roofing membranes or shingles. Lighter coloured roof membranes and shingles have much longer service lives because they have a lower surface operating temperature.<br /><li>The most effective method for reducing cooling loads is not to increase ventilation. Light coloured roofing membranes or shingles combined with good insulation levels and a well sealed air/vapour barrier will reduce cooling loads more effectively.<br /></li></ol><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>ATTIC - TYPES OF ATTIC VENTS</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Roof or attic vents should be located to allow good cross ventilation from end to end and top to bottom if possible. Vents should be equipped with screens to keep out pests and bugs and louvres to keep out rain and snow. Some of the different types of roof vents are listed below. </p><br /><br /><dl><br /><br /><dt><strong>Soffit-Vents:</strong><br /><dd>A continuous screened vent usually installed on the underside of the eaves. Soffit venting is most effective when combined with ridge, gable end or passive roof vents.<br /><br /></dd></dl><dl><br /><br /><dt><strong>Gable End:</strong><br /><dd>These vents are usually installed at the peak of the gable ends on opposite sides of the roof. Works best when combined with soffit-venting.<br /><br /></dd></dl><dl><br /><br /><dt><strong>Ridge Vents:</strong><br /><dd>This is a continuous vent applied to the entire length of the roof ridge. Works best when combined with soffit-venting.<br /><br /></dd></dl><dl><br /><br /><dt><strong>Roof Vents:</strong><br /><dd>Passive roof vents come in a variety of shapes and sizes. These vents can be installed both high and low on the roof to provide top to bottom ventilation or with other types of roof vents for cross ventilation.<br /><br /></dd></dl><dl><br /><br /><dt><strong>Turbines:</strong><br /><dd>Turbine ventilators are louvred spinning balls attached to a solid base. As warm air rises through the vent it causes the turbine to spin which in turn draws more air out of the roof or attic cavity. This action also occurs in windy conditions both in summer when needed and in winter. When combined with continuous soffit venting these units work well but there is a potential for turbine ventilators to create negative pressures in attics with limited air supply. This can create a potential moisture problem (interior moist house air drawn into the attic or roof cavity by negative pressure) during the winter in heating climates.<br /><br /></dd></dl><dl><br /><br /><dt><strong>Power Vents:</strong><br /><dd>Usually controlled by a thermostat, these units use powered fans to exhaust air out of the attic or roof cavity to provide cooling. From the view point of energy efficiency operating costs or potential problems these types of vents are not recommended for residential use.<br /><br /></dd></dl><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>ATTIC DETAILS</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>This series of details shows various techniques for air sealing, insulating and ventilating a typical attic space. </p><br /><br /><ol><br /><br /><li><a href="">Sealing Attic Penetrations</a><br /><li><a href="">Sealing Attic Penetrations II</a><br /><li><a href="">Insulating The Attic Space</a><br /><li><a href="">Air Sealing A Recessed Light Fixture</a><br /><li><a href="">Sealing The Attic Hatch</a><br /><li><a href="">Installing Batt Insulation</a><br /><li><a href="">Types of Attic Ventilation</a><br /><li><a href="">Raised Heel Truss</a><br /><li><a href="">Cantilever Truss</a><br /><br /></li></ol><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>SEALING ATTIC PENETRATIONS</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7BhBuD9cGnJ1rbdFIB2Dob2dyZnirfBlIxcageZ80Dzx-z7dAnNw46HNWYjwcJp4eJRkyD_oUBgelvmrnHxH6IOeiwa4b0B1Xk6JHDR4a8J0jYgpP7hRL5ntGZFaCzJLlhitVG-94Q70/s1600-h/attic01.gif"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153197785902164082" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Attic Penetrations Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7BhBuD9cGnJ1rbdFIB2Dob2dyZnirfBlIxcageZ80Dzx-z7dAnNw46HNWYjwcJp4eJRkyD_oUBgelvmrnHxH6IOeiwa4b0B1Xk6JHDR4a8J0jYgpP7hRL5ntGZFaCzJLlhitVG-94Q70/s200/attic01.gif" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Metal plumbing stacks are difficult to seal well, due to the expansion and contraction that occurs as warm air flows through them. The most effective way to seal a stack with no expansion joint is shown in this detail. Heavy polyethylene is sealed to the stack using duct tape (or a pipe clamp) and to the ceiling finish with acoustical sealant and staples. </p><br /><br /><p>Polyethylene cannot be used to seal around chimneys. Instead, heat resistant sealant (muffler cement) is used to seal any gaps. For wide gaps, gypsum wallboard can be used as a backing for the sealant. Due to possible fire hazards, insulation must not come any closer than 2 inches (50mm) to the chimney. Batt insulation can simply be cut to the required length, however loose fill insulations should be held back with a metal or gypsum wallboard barrier (insulation stop). </p><br /><br /><p>Wiring penetrations through the ceiling air/vapour, can be sealed using caulking. Caulking can also be used to seal any gaps along the top plates of interior or exterior walls. Polyurethane foam should be used for gaps which exceed 1/2 inch (12mm) in width. </p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>SEALING ATTIC PENETRATIONS II</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiltakHLeMcaQ8XTGblBNv6RIs3xDpcv2xkvhHMiAXORMR1oxfC8qZ9-QaO5gFfixixbYk5GI_Gzlrqd4pvms9XUBPY-Fy32ZLzUobnnZvey2imzn_qTlW8zY5L61hQSLL7ZN3TpPkTV10/s1600-h/attic02.gif"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153197790197131394" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Attic Penetrations Diagram 2" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiltakHLeMcaQ8XTGblBNv6RIs3xDpcv2xkvhHMiAXORMR1oxfC8qZ9-QaO5gFfixixbYk5GI_Gzlrqd4pvms9XUBPY-Fy32ZLzUobnnZvey2imzn_qTlW8zY5L61hQSLL7ZN3TpPkTV10/s200/attic02.gif" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>This detail shows a plumbing stack with an expansion joint, the stack is sealed to the ceiling finish using a tight-fitting plywood plate and caulking. </p><br /><br /><p>Polyethylene cannot be used to seal around chimneys. Instead heat resistant sealant (muffler cement) is used to seal any gaps. For wide gaps, gypsum wallboard can be used as a backing for the sealant. Due to possible fire hazards, insulation must not come any closer than 2 inches (50mm) to the chimney. Batt insulation can simply be cut to the required length, however loose fill insulations should be held back with a metal or gypsum wallboard barrier (insulation stop) which must extend 3 inches (75mm) above the insulation, and not closer than 2 inches (50mm) to the chimney itself. </p><br /><br /><p>Electrical boxes which penetrate the ceiling air/vapour barrier should be sealed using heavy polyethylene which is caulked and stapled, or from the interior of the house using suitable foam gaskets. </p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>INSULATING THE ATTIC SPACE</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3UabROozfXoLSEEtOppb4arWniuXSw9p7wH8Va-2EqTD5Qra83KjPJKsc70sXg4J1mZyyHqjO_TlrVa6G9VZEXfzz6nqV9uUvjNHSsYbv6f_c_9GQ1E39wNshYuBgSvw81nxn4Y_AqSE/s1600-h/attic03.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153197790197131410" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Insulating The Attic Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3UabROozfXoLSEEtOppb4arWniuXSw9p7wH8Va-2EqTD5Qra83KjPJKsc70sXg4J1mZyyHqjO_TlrVa6G9VZEXfzz6nqV9uUvjNHSsYbv6f_c_9GQ1E39wNshYuBgSvw81nxn4Y_AqSE/s200/attic03.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Heavy polyethylene is placed over and between the ceiling joists (if no air/vapour barrier is present), being sure that it fits snugly into the spaces and that all joints are overlapped and caulked using acoustical sealant. </p><br /><br /><p>The batts are fitted tightly together between the joists, with care taken to extend the insulation as far as possible over the top of the exterior wall without cutting off the air flow from the soffit vents (insulation stops can be installed between the rafters to keep the vents open). Subsequent layers of batt insulation should be run in opposite directions, to help reduce heat loss through the joists and joist spaces. </p><br /><br /><p>If loose-fill insulation is used, it can be poured or blown into place, and a rake or screed board used to level it off. </p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>AIR SEALING A RECESSED LIGHT FIXTURE</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEeaqkTveM_pYCuO2ztxrnMAfNzY_zHeJhD0PYo8hyeeGUlgr2L-vBRPDU42miZB_cH-dKNFrk6DJ80UFlr_1VZpGIkBR5R_jm7XvM31oVxsGkiVuS4mRtabSH-wR4sA7ySNP0iLY_RLk/s1600-h/attic04.gif"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153197794492098722" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Recessed Light Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEeaqkTveM_pYCuO2ztxrnMAfNzY_zHeJhD0PYo8hyeeGUlgr2L-vBRPDU42miZB_cH-dKNFrk6DJ80UFlr_1VZpGIkBR5R_jm7XvM31oVxsGkiVuS4mRtabSH-wR4sA7ySNP0iLY_RLk/s200/attic04.gif" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Lights which are recessed into the attic cavity, should not be directly covered with insulation as they need an adequate air space around them in order to prevent heat build-up when the light is in use. A 1/2 inch (12mm) plywood or gypsum wallboard box can be constructed to surround the fixture and provide the air space it needs. The fixture should not be closer than 1 inch (25mm) to any side of the box and not closer than 6 inches (150mm) to the top. The box should then be covered with heavy polyethylene, which is caulked, using acoustical sealant, to the ceiling surface. </p><br /><br /><p>Note: The most efficient solution would be to replace any recessed fixtures with standard ceiling fixtures, and then to seal the old penetrations using polyethylene and caulking. </p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>SEALING THE ATTIC HATCH</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU8gotytGcKa02Eccsg2hGri6p1iZ01yRn0Yt_yH316iB2wst8ubwRqkgRjtan878JVNTzEmIBf-BqGaEApijt_ajeiEN67y6IZnuNvsk8UwWNQyqEus95WWwQvLq1wgqffvdkyN_6Q0Q/s1600-h/attic05.gif"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153197794492098738" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Attic Hatch Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU8gotytGcKa02Eccsg2hGri6p1iZ01yRn0Yt_yH316iB2wst8ubwRqkgRjtan878JVNTzEmIBf-BqGaEApijt_ajeiEN67y6IZnuNvsk8UwWNQyqEus95WWwQvLq1wgqffvdkyN_6Q0Q/s200/attic05.gif" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>The attic hatch should be treated exactly as any exterior door. Place weatherstripping along the casing or the edges of the access door. Caulk around the frame, and between the casing and the ceiling finish. A latching mechanism should then be added (hooks with eye bolts, etc.) to ensure that the hatch seals tightly against the weatherstripping. On the attic side, the hatch should be insulated, rigid insulation usually works well in this area. </p><br /><br /><p>Note: When an attic hatch is required in new construction, it should, whenever possible, be located outside the thermal envelope of the house, such as through a gable end. </p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>INSTALLING BATT INSULATION</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVGNCQ3AhDmSAQTTYSJCSh7f6YG9yuM1GZlPRrqQimhBalaT4dQBK4lFqRKQma8aSrUmwp5UDEvut_EXjZ2lgU6b99xNoJj39I_8CenvSeNTpKlSeuSc9ix1vM3BEwu5ie7yzJ08SJ1c4/s1600-h/attic06.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153198035010267330" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Batt Insulation Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVGNCQ3AhDmSAQTTYSJCSh7f6YG9yuM1GZlPRrqQimhBalaT4dQBK4lFqRKQma8aSrUmwp5UDEvut_EXjZ2lgU6b99xNoJj39I_8CenvSeNTpKlSeuSc9ix1vM3BEwu5ie7yzJ08SJ1c4/s200/attic06.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Batt insulation is relatively simple to install, and is effective if care is taken and a few simple rules are followed. </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Butt the ends of the batts together as snugly as possible.<br /><li>The first layer of insulation should fill the joist space completely, so that the second layer can run perpendicular to the first, preventing heat loss through the joists.<br /><li>Ensure that subsequent insulation layers sit tightly together, and that no air gaps exist between them.<br /><li>The insulation should be extended over the top plates of exterior walls, and insulation stops used to prevent it from blocking air flow from soffit vents.<br /><li>Irregular shaped spaces/gaps should be insulated with custom cut pieces or loose fill insulation.<br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>TYPES OF ATTIC VENTILATION</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu8AYs3v7v5w_QBQV5H-fdilMEsvMCXxjnM_OduHxd3a4mRMGvhkrR1jO8SpIH3iwkdcdchM1T5YevckNATXPVCo_ysuwRcXzubvFsQEugeF1GTUYhEtGSAJiDS6ZsV_2q7EXwxPWRz-8/s1600-h/attic07.gif"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153198039305234642" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Attic Ventilation Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu8AYs3v7v5w_QBQV5H-fdilMEsvMCXxjnM_OduHxd3a4mRMGvhkrR1jO8SpIH3iwkdcdchM1T5YevckNATXPVCo_ysuwRcXzubvFsQEugeF1GTUYhEtGSAJiDS6ZsV_2q7EXwxPWRz-8/s200/attic07.gif" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>This detail shows the most common types of attic ventilation. Vents should be located to ensure a good cross ventilation, from end to end, and from top to bottom of the attic cavity. Local building codes should be consulted for the ventilation standards for your area. </p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>RAISED HEEL TRUSS</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh89-MoWya4OFa9ynNHLv9uiFevudEkeMLWFiwF1CsOXyx5XupCGFPLBW48eKX9KobV1Q4V3a17tApW4R3Esgbn4SjBbC7N4zEqG47IjvPVApiccwhZK2Rrn-otucj9YTg_24tv1tESG-g/s1600-h/attic08.gif"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153198043600201954" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Raised Heel Truss Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh89-MoWya4OFa9ynNHLv9uiFevudEkeMLWFiwF1CsOXyx5XupCGFPLBW48eKX9KobV1Q4V3a17tApW4R3Esgbn4SjBbC7N4zEqG47IjvPVApiccwhZK2Rrn-otucj9YTg_24tv1tESG-g/s200/attic08.gif" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>The raised heel truss is designed so that a full depth of insulation can be added at the attic perimeter (exterior walls). Heat loss through the top plates of exterior walls can lead to serious problems in cold climate areas, (ie. ice damming), making the full depth insulation an important factor. These benefits can out-weigh the additional costs associated with this type of truss. </p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>CANTILEVER TRUSS</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG7Yj6ahvQgpW_Vx8sgVcyuuDGAz5eLK5K6JEwvcywtXcJGOhyphenhyphenQyMMI5Ep2ZkD2m6pMd9uiiFGRlIBO5yoWoUQt6kkhzOUh-4wjjZz1qSVT7ZlDQu2VGI2LTdI_tcwbvh9OG3-s6LceLI/s1600-h/attic09.gif"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153198056485103858" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Cantilever Truss Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG7Yj6ahvQgpW_Vx8sgVcyuuDGAz5eLK5K6JEwvcywtXcJGOhyphenhyphenQyMMI5Ep2ZkD2m6pMd9uiiFGRlIBO5yoWoUQt6kkhzOUh-4wjjZz1qSVT7ZlDQu2VGI2LTdI_tcwbvh9OG3-s6LceLI/s200/attic09.gif" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>The cantilever truss is designed so that a full depth of insulation can be added at the attic perimeter (exterior wall), however, depending on the roof slope, and the projected length of the cantilever this may not always be the case. </p><br /><br /></blockquote>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3789871883329366469.post-64589444827126692412008-01-08T10:21:00.000-08:002008-01-08T11:15:53.404-08:00Home Insulation<h3>INTRODUCTION TO INSULATION AND HEAT FLOW</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Heat naturally flows from warm areas to cooler areas, regardless of direction. In winter, heat flows from the inside of the house to the outside. This flow of heat can never be stopped entirely, but the rate at which it flows can be reduced by using materials which have a high resistance to heat flow. </p><br /><br /><p>Heat is transferred in three distinct ways, any or all of which may be occurring at any given time: </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><br /><li><strong>Conduction</strong> - Conduction is the transfer of heat through a solid object. When one part of an object is heated, the molecules within it begin to move faster and more vigorously, these molecules then hit other molecules within the object causing the heat to be transferred through the entire object.<br /><br /><br /><br /><li><strong>Convection</strong> - Convection is the transfer of heat by the movement of a fluid (water, air, etc.). In an uninsulated wall cavity, air removes heat from the warm interior wall, then circulates to the colder exterior wall where it loses the heat.<br /><br /><br /><br /><li><strong>Radiation</strong> - Any object will radiate heat to cooler objects around it by giving off 'heat waves'. This is a direct transfer of heat from one object to another, without heating the air in between. This is the same process in which the Earth receives heat from the Sun or a wood stove supplies heat to its surroundings.<br /><br /><br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /><a name="heatflow"></a><br /><br /><p>Obviously an important step in the construction of an energy efficient house is to control this heat loss, which can account for up to 70% of the total energy loss of a home. As was previously stated, heat will flow in any direction where a temperature difference occurs. Therefore all areas which separate the interior of a house from the exterior or heated spaces from unheated spaces need to have a high resistance to heat flow, in other words, they should be insulated. </p><br /><br /><h3>How Does Insulation Work?</h3><br /><br /><p>Insulation is any material which slows the rate of heat flow from a warm area to a cooler one. The more the rate is slowed, the better the insulative qualities of the material. Its ability to resist heat flow is measured as an R or RSI (metric) value, the higher the R-value, the more the material will resist the flow of heat. In order to be effective, insulation materials must be able to reduce the transfer of heat by conduction, convection and radiation, this is determined by both its physical properties and installation. </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><br /><li><strong>Conduction</strong> - Since conduction is the transfer of heat through solid objects, most insulations usually contain tiny 'pockets' of still air. The air pockets reduce the conductive heat loss by minimizing the amount of 'solid' material within a wall or ceiling cavity.<br /><br /><br /><br /><li><strong>Convection</strong> - In large air spaces, such as a wall cavity, large amounts of heat can be lost through convection (and radiation). As long as the insulation is carefully installed to completely fill the cavity, there should be no air spaces in which convective heat loss can occur.<br /><br /><br /><br /><li><strong>Radiation</strong> - Most insulations have a cellular structure which block the flow of heat by radiation. If the cavity is completely filled with insulation, radiant heat loss from the inside finish to the outside sheathing is virtually eliminated.<br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /><h3>Choosing An Insulation</h3><br /><br /><p>The R-value is not the only consideration when choosing insulation, other factors which deserve consideration are the materials fire, mold, insect, vermin and moisture resistant properties, as well as its cost and ease of application. There are many different types of insulation materials, each with properties which make it suitable for certain applications while being unsuitable for others. The <a href="http://www.blogger.com/in-summ.htm">insulation summary</a> on the next page lists the advantages and disadvantages of the insulation types most commonly used. </p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>INSULATION MATERIALS SUMMARY</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><h3>Batt Insulation</h3><a name="batt"></a><br /><br /><h4>Glass Fibre</h4><br /><br /><p>Glass Fibre Batts are manufactured from glass which is spun into long fibres, then woven and<br />coated with a binding agent. Batts are light weight, fit standard joist and stud spaces and if<br />installed carefully will not slump or settle. They do not, however, readily fit into irregular spaces<br />and can leave 'insulation voids' around obstructions (nails, electrical wires, trusses, etc.). During<br />installation glass fibre can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation and manufacturer's safety<br />recommendations should be followed. Average R-value is 3.2 per inch (RSI 0.022/mm). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Manufactured for standard joist and stud spacings<br /><li>Relatively easy to install<br /><li>Fire and mold resistant<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation<br /><li>Does not readily fit into irregular spaces<br /><li>Can leave 'insulation voids' around obstructions if care is not taken during installation<br /><li>Air movement around the insulation can significantly degrade R-value<br /><li>Should not be covered with heavier insulation or other materials which may compress it<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Mineral Wool (Slag and Rock Wool)</h4><br /><br /><p>Mineral Wool is manufactured from melted industrial slag, which is fiberized and treated with<br />oil and binders to suppress dust and maintain shape. It is similar to glass fibre in texture and<br />appearance. Rock Wool is manufactured in a similar manner except that natural rock is used instead of slag.<br />These materials have a high fire resistance but can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation. </p><br /><br /><p>The average R-value for both slag and rock wool is 3.3 per inch (RSI 0.023). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Manufactured for standard joist and stud spacings<br /><li>Relatively easy to install<br /><li>Good material for insulating around chimneys, since it doesn't support combustion<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation<br /><li>Should not be covered with heavier insulation or other materials which may compress it<br /><li>Does not readily fit into irregular spaces<br /><li>Can leave 'insulation voids' around obstructions if care is not taken during installation<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><h3>Loose Fill Insulation</h3><a name="loose"></a><br /><br /><h4>Cellulose Fibre</h4><br /><br /><p>Cellulose fibre insulation is made from finely shredded newsprint which is chemically treated<br />to resist fire and fungal growth. Due to the small size of the particles, cellulose can 'flow' around<br />obstructions (nails, electrical wires, trusses, etc.) to give a uniform fill. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Blown Cellulose</strong> has an average R-value of 3.6 per inch (RSI<br />0.025/mm) which is dependant on the chemical mix, paper type and it's blown density. If the insulation is not blown to manufacturer's recommended density it can settle over time, and the intended R-value will not be obtained. </p><br /><br /><p>Blown cellulose can be installed in vertical wall cavities using a variety of specially designed, reinforced interior sheeting products. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Poured Cellulose</strong> has an average R-value of 3.4 per inch (RSI<br />0.024/mm) and must be applied to the manufacturer's recommendations to achieve desired density and R-value. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Fills irregular horizontal spaces<br /><li>Blown-In Cellulose can be installed with rented equipment or hand poured<br /><li>Chemical additives provide fire, corrosion, vermin and fungal growth resistance<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on the materials R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Should not be covered with heavier insulation or other materials which may compress it<br /><li>Will settle over time, manufacturer's recommendations should be followed to achieve desired<br />R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Glass Fibre</h4><br /><br /><p><strong>Blown Glass Fibre</strong> is a similar material to glass fibre batts, except that the material is 'chopped<br />up'. It has an R-value of 2.9 per inch (RSI 0.02/mm), which is reduced if not blown to the proper density. The particles in glass fibre tend to be larger than those in cellulose, therefore it doesn't always flow as freely around obstructions and can leave insulation voids. As with the batts, during installation glass fibre can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation and manufacturer's safety recommendations should be followed. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Poured Glass Fibre</strong> has basically the same properties as the blown product except its R-value<br />is usually slightly higher, R-3 per inch (RSI 0.021/mm).</p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Fills irregular horizontal spaces<br /><li>Fire and mold resistant<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on the materials R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation<br /><li>Should not be covered with heavier insulation or other materials which may compress it<br /><li>Can settle over time if not blown properly, (manufacturer's recommendations should be<br />followed)<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Mineral Wool (Slag and Rock Wool)</h4><br /><br /><p>Mineral Wool is manufactured from melted industrial slag, which is fiberized and treated with<br />oil and binders to suppress dust and maintain shape. It is similar to glass fibre in texture and<br />appearance. Rock Wool is manufactured in a similar manner except that natural rock is used instead of slag. </p><br /><br /><p>The properties listed below refer to both types of insulation. </p><br /><br /><p>The blown material has an R-value of 2.7 per inch (RSI 0.019), and as with all blown materials<br />this will vary depending upon the installed density. These types of materials have a high fire resistance<br />but can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation. </p><br /><br /><p>The poured material has the same characteristics as the blown material, but with a slightly<br />higher R-value, R-3.0 per inch (RSI 0.021). Manufacturer's recommendations should be followed for<br />installation techniques. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Good material for insulating around chimneys, since it doesn't support combustion<br /><li>Fills irregular horizontal spaces<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on the materials R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation<br /><li>Should not be covered with heavier insulation or other materials which may compress it<br /><li>Can settle over time if not blown properly, (manufacturer's recommendations should be<br />followed)<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Vermiculite</h4><br /><br /><p>Vermiculite is a mineral closely related to mica, which when heated expands to form a light<br />weight material with insulating properties. There are two types of vermiculite: untreated and<br />treated. The treated material is coated with asphalt to make it water-repellent for use in high<br />moisture areas. Untreated vermiculite absorbs water, and once wet dries very slowly. </p><br /><br /><p>Untreated vermiculite has an R-value of 2.3 per inch (RSI 0.016/mm) compared to R-2.5 per inch<br />(RSI 0.017/mm) for the treated material. Vermiculite is usually hand-installed, and is suitable for both<br />horizontal and vertical applications. It is non-combustible, odourless and non-irritating, although<br />due to its high density it is not usually the material of choice where a high R-value is desired. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Pours easily into irregular spaces<br /><li>Non-combustible<br /><li>Non-abrasive, odourless and non-irritating<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Dries very slowly after absorbing moisture<br /><li>Not usually used where a high R-value is desired<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Wood Shavings</h4><br /><br /><p>Wood shavings, although rarely used today, were once a very popular insulation product<br />due to their wide availability and low cost. Shavings were often treated with lime or other chemicals, to increase<br />resistance to water absorption, fire and fungal growth. This insulation product is still a common<br />sight in older homes across North America. </p><br /><br /><p>Wood shavings have an average R-value of 2.44 per inch (RSI 0.0169/mm). They tend to absorb<br />moisture and dry very slowly. Over time the material may settle and is hard to effectively treat against fire, vermin and fungal growth. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Readily available and inexpensive<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Low R-value<br /><li>Dries very slowly after absorbing moisture<br /><li>Hard to effectively treat against fire, vermin and fungal growth<br /><li>Can settle over time<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3>Rigid Insulation</h3><a name="rigid"></a><br /><br /><h4>Glass Fibre - Above Grade</h4><br /><br /><p>The above-grade rigid glass fibre is designed to be used as an exterior sheathing and is faced on one side with an air/moisture barrier, to prevent water and wind intrusion from lowering its R-value. </p><br /><br /><p>The above grade glass fibre has an R-value of 4.4 per inch (RSI 0.031/mm). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Relatively non-combustible<br /><li>Allows a higher R-value to be achieved on exterior walls<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>No known disadvantages<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Glass Fibre - Below Grade</h4><br /><br /><p>The below-grade rigid glass fibre is unfaced and has a higher density than the above grade version. It is designed to act as a drainage layer between the foundation wall and the surrounding soil.</p><br /><br /><p>The below-grade glass fibre board has an R-value of 4.2 per inch (RSI 0.029/mm). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Relatively non-combustible<br /><li>Can provide drainage next to the foundation<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can not sit in water, should be connected to a good drainage system<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Expanded Polystyrene</h4><br /><br /><p>Expanded polystyrene is produced by expanding polystyrene beads which are then bonded together to form rigid boards. 'Bead Board' as it is often called is manufactured in two densities. The high density board is more moisture resistant and can be used on the exterior of a foundation providing the surrounding soil is dry and sandy. Polystyrene will 'break-down' if left exposed to sunlight for prolonged periods. It must also be protected from solvents and only compatible sealants should be used. If the insulation is to be used in the interior of a house, it needs to be covered with a fire-resistant material, such as drywall. </p><br /><br /><p>Low density expanded polystyrene has an R-value of 3.7 per inch (RSI 0.026/mm) while the high density has an R-value of 4.0 per inch (RSI 0.028/mm). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can be installed either on the interior or exterior where space is limited (cathedral ceiling, flat roof, exterior walls, etc.)<br /><li>Lightweight<br /><li>Less expensive than extruded polystyrene or most other rigid insulations<br /><li>Doesn't cause skin irritation<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Must be protected from sunlight, solvents and non-compatible sealants<br /><li>When used on the interior a fire-resistant covering is required<br /><li>Low-density board can only be used above grade.<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Extruded Polystyrene</h4><br /><br /><p>Extruded polystyrene is a closed cell foam plastic board, which is manufactured in two densities. Both the low and high density board are suitable for below grade applications, however the high density board should be used where the material will be exposed to relatively high pressures, such as below a concrete slab or in built-up roofing. Polystyrene will 'break-down' if left exposed to sunlight for prolonged periods and must also be protected from solvents. If the insulation is to be used in the interior of a house, it needs to be covered with a fire-resistant material, such as drywall. </p><br /><br /><p>The low density extruded polystyrene has an R-value of 4.7 per inch (RSI 0.033/mm) while the high density has an R-value of 5.0 per inch (RSI 0.035/mm). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can be installed either on the interior or exterior where space is limited (cathedral ceiling, flat roof, exterior walls, etc.)<br /><li>Lightweight<br /><li>High-density board can handle relatively high pressures, under concrete slabs, etc.<br /><li>Doesn't cause skin irritation<br /><li>When joints are properly sealed, extruded polystyrene can act as an air barrier<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Must be protected from sunlight and solvents<br /><li>When used on the interior a fire-resistant covering is required<br /><li>More expensive than expanded polystyrene<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Polyurethane and Polyisocyanurate</h4><br /><br /><p>Polyurethane and polyisocyanurate insulations are manufactured by chemical reactions between poly-alcohols and isocyanurates. They are a closed cell board, the cells contain refrigerant gases (fluorocarbons) instead of air. The boards are usually double-faced with foil, or sometimes come bonded with an interior or exterior finishing material. The boards must be protected from prolonged exposure to water and sunlight, and if used on the interior must be covered with a fire-resistant material, such as drywall. Due to the relatively high cost of these insulations, use is generally limited to areas which require a high R-value but where space is very limited. </p><br /><br /><p>The faced boards have a typical R-value of 5.8 per inch (RSI 0.040) to 7.2 per inch (RSI 0.050). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can be installed on the interior or exterior where space is very limited but a high R-value is needed<br /><li>When joints are properly sealed it can act as both an air and vapour barrier<br /><li>Very high R-value per inch<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Must be protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight and water<br /><li>When used on the interior a fire-resistant covering is required<br /><li>More expensive than most other types of insulation<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Phenolic Foam</h4><br /><br /><p>Phenolic foam is manufactured from phenol formaldehyde resin, and is available as either an open or closed cell product. The boards usually come with a foil facing on one or both sides. It is much less combustible than other rigid insulations. It should be protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight and water. It is suitable for wall sheathing, and for use on the interior, both above and below grade. Use is generally limited to areas which require a high R-value but where space is very limited. </p><br /><br /><p>Open cell insulations have a typical R-value of 4.2 per inch (RSI 0.029) while closed cell insulations have a typical R-value of 8.3 per inch (RSI 0.058). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can be installed where space is very limited but a high R-value is required<br /><li>Very high R-value per inch<br /><li>Less combustible than other types of rigid insulation<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Must be protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight and water<br /><li>Currently the most expensive rigid insulation product<br /><li>When used on the interior a fire-resistant covering is usually required<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h3>Spray Foam Insulations</h3><a name="spray"></a><br /><br /><h4>Polyurethane Foam</h4><br /><br /><p>Polyurethane is a closed cell foam which is usually pale yellow in colour, and can be used for a variety of spray applications. The material is mixed on site with special equipment for large applications. For small applications, single component foam is available in spray cans, for sealing around windows, doors, etc. The foam will act as an air barrier, but not a vapour barrier and should be protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight. When the foam is used in the interior of a house it must be covered with a fire-resistant material, such as drywall. </p><br /><br /><p>Polyurethane foam has an R-value of 6.0 per inch (RSI 0.042/mm) which takes into account the loss of refrigerant gases over time. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Acts as an air barrier<br /><li>Ideal for use with irregular shaped surfaces and narrow openings, eg: shim spaces around doors and windows<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>When used on the interior a fire-resistant covering is usually required<br /><li>Large applications require specially trained contractors<br /><li>Must be protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><h4>Isocyanurate Plastic Foam</h4><br /><br /><p>Isocyanurate foam is a two component material, and is made from a combination of isocyanurate, resins and catalysts which create an open-celled semi-flexible plastic foam insulation. It is best suited for use in exterior stud wall cavities, perimeter joist spaces and in small areas such as the shim spaces around doors and windows. Special applicators are used on site to mix the chemicals in the proper proportions, and trained contractors should be used to ensure correct installation. The material can be used as an air barrier, but when installed on the interior of the house it should be covered with a fire-resistant material, such as drywall. </p><br /><br /><p>Isocyanurate plastic foam has an R-value of 4.3 per inch (RSI 0.030/mm). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Good for irregular shapes and spaces<br /><li>Acts as an air barrier<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong> </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>When used on the interior a fire-resistant covering is required<br /><li>Requires specially trained contractors<br /><li>There are some limitations on the thickness of the material which can be applied<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3>Sprayed-In-Place Insulations</h3><a name="place"></a><br /><br /><p>Sprayed-in-place insulations are loose fill products which are blown in to wall cavities. During the blow-in stage the insulation is mixed with an adhesive, usually water-based, which binds the insulation together to form a seamless batt. This type of insulation, when properly installed resists settling and shifting and allows the cavity to be completely filled, leaving no air gaps, thereby greatly reducing air leakage. The three most common types of insulation installed in this way are cellulose, glass fibre blowing wool and mineral or rockwool. </p><br /><br /><h4>Cellulose</h4><br /><br /><p>Spray cellulose is the same material as loose fill insulation, except that it is applied using special applicators which mix the material with an adhesive, allowing it to adhere to the surface it is applied to. </p><br /><br /><p>Spray cellulose has an R-value of 3.5 per inch (RSI 0.024/mm). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Non-settling<br /><li>Resistant to air flow<br /><li>Can offer complete filling of wall cavities<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Requires trained contractors for installation<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><h4>Glass Fibre</h4><br /><br /><p>Blown Glass Fibre is the same material as glass fibre batts, except that the material is 'chopped<br />up'. It has an R-value of 2.9 per inch (RSI 0.02/mm), when blown to the proper density. </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Non-settling<br /><li>Can offer complete filling of wall cavities<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on the materials R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation<br /><li>Requires trained contractors for installation<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><h4>Mineral Wool (Slag and Rock Wool)</h4><br /><br /><p>Sprayed-In-Place mineral wool is the same material used in loose fill insulation, except that it is 'chopped up' and mixed with an adhesive. </p><br /><br /><p>Both slag and rock wool have an R-value of 3 per inch (RSI 0.021). </p><br /><br /><p><strong>Advantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Non-settling<br /><li>Can offer complete filling of wall cavities<br /><li>Good material for insulating around chimneys, since it doesn't support combustion<br /><li>Small amounts of moisture have little effect on the materials R-value<br /></li></ul><br /><br /><p><strong>Disadvantages</strong></p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Can cause eye, skin and respiratory irritation during installation<br /><li>Requires trained contractors for installation<br /></li></ul><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>RECOMMENDED INSULATION LEVELS</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>When deciding on insulation levels, the house should be viewed as a whole and a balanced<br />approach should be used. It makes very little sense to add a high level of insulation in the attic<br />when the exterior walls have low insulation values, or the basement is uninsulated. Since heat<br />loss occurs through all areas of a house, each part of the building envelope which separates the<br />heated interior from the outside needs to be insulated. In new construction this is a fairly simple<br />process. In an existing home it is more difficult, but usually not impossible. For example, small<br />holes can be drilled into exterior or interior walls, and new insulation blown in, or rigid<br />insulation can be applied to the exterior of the house under a new exterior finish. </p><br /><br /><p>The list below gives recommended levels of insulation for the main areas of the home.<br />Values are shown in both imperial 'R' and metric ('RSI') units. </p><br /><br /><h3>Minimum Recommended Insulation Levels For Cold Climate Housing</h3><br /><br /><dl><br /><br /><dt><strong>Basement Floors</strong><br /><dd>R-10 (RSI-1.8)<br /><dt><strong>Basement Walls</strong><br /><dd>R-12 (RSI-2.1)<br /><dt><strong>Above Grade Walls</strong><br /><dd>R-20 (RSI-3.5)<br /><dt><strong>Ceiling</strong><br /><dd>R-40 (RSI-7.0)<br /><dt><strong>Floors over unheated spaces</strong><br /><dd>R-20 (RSI-3.5)<br /><dt><strong>Exposed Cantilevers</strong><br /><dd>R-28 (RSI-4.9)<br /><br /></dd></dl><br /><br /><br /><h3>Recommended Insulation Levels For Energy Efficient Homes </h3><br /><br /><dl><br /><br /><dt><strong>Basement Floors</strong><br /><dd>R-10 (RSI-1.8)<br /><dt><strong>Basement Walls</strong><br /><dd>R-20 (RSI-3.5)<br /><dt><strong>Above Grade Walls</strong><br /><dd>R-40 (RSI-7.0)<br /><dt><strong>Ceiling</strong><br /><dd>R-60 (RSI-10.6)<br /><dt><strong>Floors over unheated spaces</strong><br /><dd>R-40 (RSI-7.0)<br /><dt><strong>Exposed Cantilevers</strong><br /><dd>R-40 (RSI-7.0)<br /><br /></dd></dl><br /><br /><p><em>Note: R-1 = 0.1761 RSI</em></p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3>INSULATION VALUES</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>The following charts provide the thermal resistance (insulation value) of various materials used in house construction.</p><br /><br /><h3>INSULATION MATERIALS</h3><br /><center><table width="85%" border="1"><br /><br /><tbody><tr><br /><td align="middle"><h4>Building Material </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value/inch (RSI/mm) </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value (RSI) for<br />Thickness Listed </h4></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td colspan="3"><strong>Batt Insulation</strong></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Mineral fibre, batt</td><br /><td align="middle">3.3 (0.023)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Glass fibre, batt</td><br /><td align="middle">3.2 (0.022)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td colspan="3"><strong>Loose Fill Insulations</strong></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Cellulose fibre, blown<br />(settled thickness)</td><br /><td align="middle">3.6 (0.025)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Mineral fibre, loose fill</td><br /><td align="middle">3.0 (0.021)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Glass fibre, loose fill (poured)</td><br /><td align="middle">2.9 (0.020)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Glass fibre, loose fill (blown)</td><br /><td align="middle">3.0 (0.021)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Expanded mica (vermiculite)</td><br /><td align="middle">2.3 (0.016)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td colspan="3"><strong>Spray Foam Insulations</strong></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Polyurethane (foamed in place)</td><br /><td align="middle">6.0 (0.042)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Isocyanurate, sprayed</td><br /><td align="middle">5.0 (0.034)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td colspan="3"><strong>Sprayed-In-Place Insulations</strong></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Cellulose fibre, sprayed<br />(settled thickness)</td><br /><td align="middle">3.5 (0.024)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Glass fibre, sprayed</td><br /><td align="middle">2.9 (0.020)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Mineral fibre, sprayed</td><br /><td align="middle">3.0 (0.021)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td colspan="3"><strong>Rigid Insulations</strong></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Polyurethane boardstock</td><br /><td align="middle">6.06 (0.0420)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Extruded polystyrene boardstock</td><br /><td align="middle">5.0 (0.0347)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Semi-rigid glass fibre sheathing</td><br /><td align="middle">4.4 (0.0305)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Expanded polystyrene boardstock</td><br /><td align="middle">3.71 (0.0257) - 4.3 (0.0298)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Glass fibre roof board</td><br /><td align="middle">3.99 (0.0277)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Fibreboard</td><br /><td align="middle">2.80 (0.0194)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Mineral aggregate board</td><br /><td align="middle">2.62 (0.0182)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td colspan="3"><strong>Other Materials</strong></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Cork</td><br /><td align="middle">3.71 (0.0257)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Wood fibre</td><br /><td align="middle">3.33 (0.0231)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Wood shavings</td><br /><td align="middle">2.44 (0.0169)</td><br /><br /></tr></tbody></table></center><br /><br /><h3>STRUCTURAL MATERIALS</h3><br /><br /><center><table width="85%" border="1"><br /><br /><tbody><tr><br /><td align="middle"><h4>Building Material </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value/inch (RSI/mm) </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value (RSI) for<br />Thickness Listed </h4></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Cedar logs and lumber</td><br /><td align="middle">1.33 (0.0092)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Softwood lumber (except cedar)</td><br /><td align="middle">1.25 (0.0087)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Concrete<br />(30-150 lb per cubic foot)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.06 (0.0069) - 1.0 (0.00045)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Concrete block (3 oval core)<br />sand and gravel aggregate<br />4-12 inches (100-300 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.71 (0.12) - 1.28 (0.22)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Concrete block (3 oval core)<br />cinder aggregate<br />4-12 inches (100-300 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.71 (0.12) - 1.28 (0.22)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Concrete block (3 oval core)<br />lightweight aggregate<br />4-12 inches (100-300 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">1.50 (0.26) - 2.27 (0.40)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Common brick<br />Clay or shale<br />4 inches (100 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.4 (0.07)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Common brick<br />Concrete mix<br />4 inches (100 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.3 (0.05)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Stone (lime or sand)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.087 (0.00060)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Steel</td><br /><td align="middle">0.003 (0.000022)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Aluminum</td><br /><td align="middle">0.0007 (0.0000049)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Glass (no air films)<br />1/8 - 1/4 inch (3-6 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.06 (0.01)</td><br /><br /></tr></tbody></table></center><br /><br /><h3>AIR</h3><br /><br /><center><table width="85%" border="1"><br /><br /><tbody><tr><br /><td align="middle"><h4>Building Material </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value/inch (RSI/mm) </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value (RSI) for<br />Thickness Listed </h4></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td colspan="3"><strong>Enclosed Air Space (non-reflective)</strong></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Horizontal space - heat flow up</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.85 (0.150)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Horizontal space - heat flow down</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">1.02 (0.180)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Vertical space - heat flow horizontal</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.97 (0.171)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Air spaces less than 1/2 inch (12 mm)<br />minimum dimension<br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td colspan="3"><strong>Enclosed Air Space (reflective)</strong></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Horizontal space - faced one side<br />heat flow up</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">1.84 (0.324)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Horizontal space - faced two sides<br />heat flow up</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">1.89 (0.322)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Horizontal space - faced one side<br />heat flow down</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">5.56 (0.980)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Horizontal space - faced two sides<br />heat flow down</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">5.87 (1.034)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Vertical space - faced one side<br />heat flow horizontal</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">2.64 (0.465)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Vertical space - faced two sides<br />heat flow horizontal</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">2.73 (0.480)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Air spaces less than 1/2 inch (12 mm)<br />minimum dimension</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td colspan="3"><strong>Air surface films</strong></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Outside air film (moving air)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.17 (0.03)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Inside air film (still air)<br />Horizontal, heat flow down</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.92 (0.162)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Inside air film (still air)<br />Vertical, heat flow horizontal</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.68 (0.12)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Inside air film (still air)<br />Horizontal, heat flow up</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.61 (0.105)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Inside air film (still air)<br />Sloping 45 degrees, heat flow up</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.61 (0.105)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td colspan="3"><strong>Other</strong></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Attic air film</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.5 (0.08)</td><br /><br /></tr></tbody></table></center><br /><br /><h3>ROOFING MATERIALS</h3><br /><br /><center><table width="85%" border="1"><br /><br /><tbody><tr><br /><td align="middle"><h4>Building Material </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value/inch (RSI/mm) </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value (RSI) for<br />Average Thickness</h4></td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Asphalt roll roofing</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.15 (0.026)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Asphalt shingles</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.44 (0.078)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Wood shingles (cedar shakes)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.94 (0.165)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Built-up membrane (hot mopped)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.33 (0.058)</td><br /><br /><tr><br /><td>Crushed Stone (not dried)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.09 (0.0006)<br /><td></td><br /><br /></tr></tbody></table></center><br /><br /><br /><h3>SHEATHING MATERIALS</h3><br /><br /><center><table width="85%" border="1"><br /><tbody><tr><br /><td align="middle"><h4>Building Material </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value/inch (RSI/mm) </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value (RSI) for<br />Thickness Listed </h4></td><br /><tr><br /><td>Softwood plywood</td><br /><td align="middle">1.25 (0.0087)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Mat-formed particleboard</td><br /><td align="middle">1.25 (0.0087)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Insulating fibreboard sheathing</td><br /><td align="middle">2.38 (0.0165)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Gypsum sheathing</td><br /><td align="middle">0.89 (0.0062)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Sheathing paper</td><br /><td align="middle">0.062 (0.0004)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Asphalt-coated kraft paper<br />vapour barrier</td><br /><td align="middle">negligible</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Polyethylene vapour barrier</td><br /><td align="middle">negligible</td><br /></tr></tbody></table></center><br /><br /><h3>CLADDING MATERIALS</h3><br /><br /><center><table width="85%" border="1"><br /><tbody><tr><br /><td align="middle"><h4>Building Material </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value/inch (RSI/mm) </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value (RSI) for<br />Thickness Listed </h4></td><br /><tr><br /><td>Fibreboard siding<br />Medium-density hardboard</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.578 (0.10)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Fibreboard siding 3/8 inch (9.5 mm)<br />High-density hardboard</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.5 (0.08)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Softwood siding (lapped)<br />Drop, 1x8 inch (18x184 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.79 (0.139)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Softwood siding (lapped)<br />Bevel, 1/2x8 inch (12x184 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.81 (0.143)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Softwood siding (lapped)<br />Bevel, 1x10 inch (19x235 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">1.05 (0.185)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Softwood siding (lapped)<br />Plywood, 1/8 inch (9 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.58 (0.103)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Wood shingles</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">1.0 (0.17)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Brick (clay or shale)<br />4 inches (100 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.42 (0.074)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Brick (concrete and sand [lime])<br />4 inches (100 mm)</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.3 (0.053)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Stucco 1 inch (25 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.20 (0.0014)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.20 (0.0356)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Metal siding<br />Horizontal clapboard profile</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.7 (0.123)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Metal siding<br />Horizontal clapboard profile<br />with backing</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">1.40 (0.246)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Metal siding<br />Vertical V-groove profile</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">0.70 (0.123)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Metal siding<br />Vertical board and batten profile</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">negligible</td><br /></tr></tbody></table></center><br /><br /><h3>INTERIOR FINISH</h3><br /><br /><center><table width="85%" border="1"><br /><tbody><tr><br /><td align="middle"><h4>Building Material </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value/inch (RSI/mm) </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value (RSI) for<br />Thickness Listed </h4></td><br /><tr><br /><td>Gypsum board, gypsum lath<br />1/2 inch (12.7 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.89 (0.0062)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.445 (0.0787)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Gypsum plaster 1/2 inch (12.7 mm)<br />Sand aggregate</td><br /><td align="middle">0.20 (0.0014)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.1 (0.01778)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Gypsum plaster 1/2 inch (12.7 mm)<br />Lightweight aggregate</td><br /><td align="middle">0.63 (0.0044)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.315 (0.05588)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Plywood 5/16 inch (7.5 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">1.25 (0.0087)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.391 (0.0653)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Hardboard (standard)<br />1/4 inch (6 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.72 (0.0050)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.18 (0.03)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Insulating fibreboard<br />1 inch (25 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">2.38 (0.0165)</td><br /><td align="middle">2.38 (0.4191)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Drywall, gypsum board<br />1/2 inch (12.7 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.88 (0.0061)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.44 (0.0775)</td><br /></tr></tbody></table></center><br /><br /><h3>FLOORING</h3><br /><br /><center><table width="85%" border="1"><br /><tbody><tr><br /><td align="middle"><h4>Building Material </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value/inch (RSI/mm) </h4></td><br /><td align="middle"><h4>R-value (RSI) for<br />Thickness Listed </h4></td><br /><tr><br /><td>Maple or Oak (hardwood)<br />3/4 inch (19 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.91 (0.0063)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.7 (0.12)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Pine or Fir (softwood)<br />3/4 inch (19 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">1.28 (0.0089)</td><br /><td align="middle">1.0 (0.17)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Plywood 5/8 inch (16 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">1.25 (0.0087)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.781 (0.1392)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Mat-formed particleboard<br />5/8 inch (16 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">1.2 (0.0087)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.781 (0.1392)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Wood fibre tiles<br />1/2 inch (12.7 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">2.38 (0.0165)</td><br /><td align="middle">1.19 (0.209)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Linoleum or tile (resilient)<br />1/8 inch (3 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.08 (0.014)</td><br /><td align="middle"></td><br /><tr><br /><td>Terrazzo 1 inch (25 mm)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.08 (0.00055)</td><br /><td align="middle">0.08 (0.014)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Carpet with fibrous underlay</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">2.08 (0.366)</td><br /><tr><br /><td>Carpet with rubber underlay</td><br /><td></td><br /><td align="middle">1.28 (0.226)</td><br /></tr></tbody></table></center><br /><br /><h3>Insulation</h3><br /><br /><h3>Insulating Energy Efficient Houses</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><p>Two common framing methods and key structural points are detailed for insulating energy efficient wall systems for new housing. Exterior finishes as well as foundation and roof framing is varied to show different finishing and applications. Exterior weather barrier details are not shown but its installation is very important. Some details are also provided for insulating cantilevered floors and attic spaces.</p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li><a href="">Frame Wall with Exterior Insulation</a> <ul><br /><li><a href="">Floor Joist Detail</a><br /><li><a href="">Roof Construction Detail</a><br /><li><a href="">Exterior Corner Detail</a><br /><li><a href="">Window Details</a></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><li><a href="">Frame Wall with Interior Horizontal Strapping</a> <ul><br /><li><a href="">Floor Joist Detail</a><br /><li><a href="">Roof Construction Detail</a><br /><li><a href="">Exterior Corner Detail</a><br /><li><a href="">Window Detail</a></li></ul><br /><br /><br /><li><a href="">Cantilever Floor Detail</a><br /><br /><li><a href="">Insulating the Attic Space</a><br /><li><a href="">Installing Batt Insulation</a><br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><br /><br /><h2 align="center">Frame Wall with Exterior Insulation</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1L3CFg-3Wp5GBI0Hpw5ggwueEkI6N8xIHvFwoKvLCvGARX7iuYZxjlnumqEi3Lb0rcD2kop9AV1nXDxccv0O3RzeAhagzLJc5RB9da4BP17Du4n2artn61-KoD6plwSx0iLj03x1MeAA/s1600-h/wall-2.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153173991783344162" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Frame Wall Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1L3CFg-3Wp5GBI0Hpw5ggwueEkI6N8xIHvFwoKvLCvGARX7iuYZxjlnumqEi3Lb0rcD2kop9AV1nXDxccv0O3RzeAhagzLJc5RB9da4BP17Du4n2artn61-KoD6plwSx0iLj03x1MeAA/s200/wall-2.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>A simple 2 x 6 inch (38 x 140mm) single stud wall, 24 inch (600mm) on centre, uses rigid or semi-rigid insulating sheathing, applied to the outside to achieve an energy efficient wall system. This construction method can achieve R28 (RSI 4.9) or higher using standard framing practices. Exterior board insulations reduce the thermal bridging heat loss through framing components while reducing convection heat loss from outside air penetration.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><br /><h3>Floor Joist Detail</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivGt-z-8cFBTnLgx3o0_plx-u1tx8zoKc5eTEAU_oPqxD8O52nCk6hcHtq77zezUnkqjEKfr1JANoJpAOG5UlTBT7q2-br-p4nYw3u0aa1gnkfwch_Eud20SKdSgR4imP7ef8AtUdWpU8/s1600-h/con01.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153173270228838306" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Floor Joist Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivGt-z-8cFBTnLgx3o0_plx-u1tx8zoKc5eTEAU_oPqxD8O52nCk6hcHtq77zezUnkqjEKfr1JANoJpAOG5UlTBT7q2-br-p4nYw3u0aa1gnkfwch_Eud20SKdSgR4imP7ef8AtUdWpU8/s200/con01.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>The floor joist and headers are set in to allow for extra board insulation. This is required to maintain two-thirds of the insulation outside the air/vapour barrier. The 2 x 4 inch (38 x 89mm) bottom plate allows the board insulation to extend above and seal the header.</p><br /><br /><p>A foam gasket will provide the seal between the mud sill and the concrete, while providing protection for the polyethylene air/vapour barrier.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Roof Construction Detail</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGFngx73M7v8B8GwfstFguy7MqTsk5LiUiIVWEb8yV0Rr_HRBp86dLDGEfifG-bYp_EbGV2YQFnrUGaqpUFj2-6juxpBNd7iLl0m_4yzWiGW8AI0zJygMFXSv0xccMe0S2MRicrVg2hQc/s1600-h/con02.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153173270228838322" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Roof Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGFngx73M7v8B8GwfstFguy7MqTsk5LiUiIVWEb8yV0Rr_HRBp86dLDGEfifG-bYp_EbGV2YQFnrUGaqpUFj2-6juxpBNd7iLl0m_4yzWiGW8AI0zJygMFXSv0xccMe0S2MRicrVg2hQc/s200/con02.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Air movement from the soffit into the highly insulated attic space is maintained using insulation stops.<br />Horizontal strapping at the top (centre and bottom) of the wall provides a means of securing the exterior sheathing and can provide the firm backing required for a stucco type finish.</p><br /><br /><p>The ceiling air/vapour barrier is caulked and stapled to the wall vapour barrier against the solid backing. If possible join them so that the ceiling air/vapour barrier is outside the wall air/vapour barrier.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Exterior Corner Detail</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw7rZlW2snQviiojz5JO03zQRY-cQgmn2ukZTHZWMKnSF-by6sUSSsCbbm_aoLQM9_joimBendLOun1JzvZRLfMH3BwSxEZWUDxwuWtQKgxo_XPoszIcXAM7ilB_zKg1QmuO3w5V76vP0/s1600-h/con03.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153173274523805634" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Exterior Corner Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw7rZlW2snQviiojz5JO03zQRY-cQgmn2ukZTHZWMKnSF-by6sUSSsCbbm_aoLQM9_joimBendLOun1JzvZRLfMH3BwSxEZWUDxwuWtQKgxo_XPoszIcXAM7ilB_zKg1QmuO3w5V76vP0/s200/con03.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>This method provides solid backing for the drywall at exterior corners.</p><br /><br /><p>Air/vapour barrier joints should be sealed with acoustical sealant and stapled into solid backing (studs). Allow a little slack but do not bunch up or join the air/vapour barriers in the corners as this creates difficulties when drywalling.</p><br /><br /><p>Blocking is also required in the exterior corners to permit siding or other exterior finishes to be properly attached.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Window Details</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2T043ZXHgo6IKHOzY46Y6TUk3gf0aZ6hdUDTnfDmJewJ9DrkO1i-aRLm_Zbzk0aH-M0bWzxQugI1MpEMOCF7wRsXoAfHoOrqLMxbNYYpCUPmmkTxtZ-KD6GqKVQzCneRPKJBlwmaV1dY/s1600-h/con04.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153173278818772946" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Window Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2T043ZXHgo6IKHOzY46Y6TUk3gf0aZ6hdUDTnfDmJewJ9DrkO1i-aRLm_Zbzk0aH-M0bWzxQugI1MpEMOCF7wRsXoAfHoOrqLMxbNYYpCUPmmkTxtZ-KD6GqKVQzCneRPKJBlwmaV1dY/s200/con04.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>A 12 to 18 inches (300 to 450mm) strip of <a href="http://www.blogger.com/win-wrap.htm">6 mil polyethylene</a> is caulked and stapled around the window frame prior to installation. The corners need to be overlapped so they can be folded back after installation. The strip of polyethylene is than caulked and stapled to the wall air/vapour barrier.</p><br /><br /><p>Horizontal strapping around the outside edge of the window frame provides secure fastening for the plywood sheathing and exterior finish. Remember to insulate the box lintel above the window before installing the window unit.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><h2 align="center">Frame Wall with Interior Horizontal Strapping</h2><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGm05aMo8Vja9MhsnB3TU0R6ql5wLcj4TCebHb7laUKnHnn8xbjEE617AuyC-vKSyTbgx3G-s8HMzWHqsNJKL_5Eouaq_iFDd2SWD21Ayj0gaK6YK8ogbRuHpkuLrGqwEtLJG1iYyt0hE/s1600-h/wall-4.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153173996078311474" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Frame Wall Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGm05aMo8Vja9MhsnB3TU0R6ql5wLcj4TCebHb7laUKnHnn8xbjEE617AuyC-vKSyTbgx3G-s8HMzWHqsNJKL_5Eouaq_iFDd2SWD21Ayj0gaK6YK8ogbRuHpkuLrGqwEtLJG1iYyt0hE/s200/wall-4.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Standard 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 inch (38 x 89mm or 38 x 140mm) framing is used for the main walls. The wall is then insulated and a continuous air/vapour barrier is applied. Interior 2 x 2 or 2 x 3 inch (38 x 38 or 38 x 64mm) strapping is then applied horizontally on 24 inch (600mm) centres. The strapping separates and helps to protect the air/vapour barrier from being damaged due to plumbing, electrical or drywall installation. Electrical and other services are installed on the inside of the air/vapour barrier.</p><br /><br /><p>As shown single stud walls can also be built with insulated sheathing on the exterior. Make sure two-thirds of the insulation value is on the outside of the air/vapour barrier.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Floor Joist Detail</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQeWr_3NvarrGEZ2iYtHIsWVORC3NFtBmn0sSQDGOb7SbaTS6y1uDL5wRy7iUFIwGHbNGHL4BdiemEaFrWCsiCl8em71aU80W5xyuiY1TtfivCSqjOwosNXkdC-nl_yVzJH8F15b1H1dQ/s1600-h/con05.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153173278818772962" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Floor Joist Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQeWr_3NvarrGEZ2iYtHIsWVORC3NFtBmn0sSQDGOb7SbaTS6y1uDL5wRy7iUFIwGHbNGHL4BdiemEaFrWCsiCl8em71aU80W5xyuiY1TtfivCSqjOwosNXkdC-nl_yVzJH8F15b1H1dQ/s200/con05.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Wrap the air vapour barrier from inside the foundation and drape around the outside. After the floor joists and sheathing are installed the polyethylene can be wrapped around the floor joists as shown. Once the exterior walls are completed the polyethylene is then caulked and stapled to the basement and first floor polyethylene air/vapour barriers. This detail shows the air/vapour barrier secured and protected between the top plates of a preserved wood foundation.</p><br /><br /><p>The inset header and floor joists allows a reasonable level of insulation using a board type insulation on the outside. This allows for one-third of the value of the insulation to be placed on the inside the header.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Roof Construction Detail</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-fE1oWVgdgBRdFHmcth3FbF92BPBQwjpHCTlMu47ex3c5gR-rs1bTABQxXc0m-ly7WVdHsdV6ciqsAH2Cq4pMzNqUgbETq5ZHvANljGBurMDzyXGOs8l1j0Z1j90Sq97pW9XhpDLGWqs/s1600-h/con06.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153173987488376818" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Roof Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-fE1oWVgdgBRdFHmcth3FbF92BPBQwjpHCTlMu47ex3c5gR-rs1bTABQxXc0m-ly7WVdHsdV6ciqsAH2Cq4pMzNqUgbETq5ZHvANljGBurMDzyXGOs8l1j0Z1j90Sq97pW9XhpDLGWqs/s200/con06.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>High heel trusses are used to obtain a high level of insulation in the attic directly over the exterior walls while still allowing for adequate ventilation flows.</p><br /><br /><p>Wall and ceiling air/vapour barriers are caulked and stapled into the top plates of the wall and then secured by the interior strapping.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Exterior Corner Detail</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU93Lxedn7CprT8TsGdVmqKJ2e4AsC8fGkJ-cdJoZMiaLcTGDuZnCp5xKMB65eVglHdqsDAb3oCnHvE_U5x6b14kg5YmeK0uGHy_Y-2foxk4veVDEBmXBinmX4xemShD7G_biphoQifSs/s1600-h/con07.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153173987488376834" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Exterior Corner Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU93Lxedn7CprT8TsGdVmqKJ2e4AsC8fGkJ-cdJoZMiaLcTGDuZnCp5xKMB65eVglHdqsDAb3oCnHvE_U5x6b14kg5YmeK0uGHy_Y-2foxk4veVDEBmXBinmX4xemShD7G_biphoQifSs/s200/con07.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>Studs are used in the interior corners of inside walls to provide solid backing for drywall or wallboard.</p><br /><br /><p>The air/vapour barrier joints should be caulked and stapled to solid backing (studs). The polyethylene should not be joined or bunched into corners as it causes difficulties with drywalling.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Window Detail </h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6FarN_HpJLHuaOP2VzFfyaUgOfeooqIVNnOeuZva5XU9gTG0uTsMZBwjOfig0YRb9b3AX3TbmX4F1hj10aPrtQt8-tlw39kZfT7Q08Um9DmAhcDQHh17cDIVpaewNu2Kc6UtAq-a882U/s1600-h/con08.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153173991783344146" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Window Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6FarN_HpJLHuaOP2VzFfyaUgOfeooqIVNnOeuZva5XU9gTG0uTsMZBwjOfig0YRb9b3AX3TbmX4F1hj10aPrtQt8-tlw39kZfT7Q08Um9DmAhcDQHh17cDIVpaewNu2Kc6UtAq-a882U/s200/con08.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>A 12 to 18 inches (300 to 450mm) strip of <a href="http://www.blogger.com/win-wrap.htm">6 mil polyethylene</a> is caulked and stapled around the window frame prior to installation. The corners need to be overlapped so they can be folded back after installation. The strip of polyethylene is then caulked and stapled to the wall air/vapour barrier between the horizontal strapping and the drywall or wallboard.</p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><br /><br /><h3>Cantilever Floor Detail</h3><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ND1rg63fxAKaxkVcxMW8WW-7LcK1KTRhm9D38EArxVx1TgB10homutrAJ1QSS5B7sGC8uERGeUVHgGGYNT6eA8AmgcVTU_VE_TuZpgNR5eIdVRubJE8uRoH9j-Fag25aEqg_3l_AkjE/s1600-h/floor-4.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153177857253910594" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Cantilever Floor Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ND1rg63fxAKaxkVcxMW8WW-7LcK1KTRhm9D38EArxVx1TgB10homutrAJ1QSS5B7sGC8uERGeUVHgGGYNT6eA8AmgcVTU_VE_TuZpgNR5eIdVRubJE8uRoH9j-Fag25aEqg_3l_AkjE/s200/floor-4.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><p>All seams in the cantilever subfloor must be sealed to act as an air barrier. Insulation must fill the entire cavity to the inside face of the wall. Rigid polystyrene or wood blocking installed between the floor joists should be sealed with caulking to the joists and subfloor surfaces. Additional rigid insulation may be added to the underside prior to installing the exterior sheathing and weather barrier. </p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><h3>Insulating The Attic Space</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-s_eiDwCypxZ0qE_HgrWpZ7FFsfbnYEXAMaOKZVSGca1fYkxz6jDFZdxIda6zefVjxb3ZYQojVzV1N6qgAjSDMEWlZSDtdMDp-lf3wyN1MpUmCpAIjxhhFwAeiBzmkNs_a9y1fQ6BVHo/s1600-h/attic03.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153178428484560978" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Insulating The Attic Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-s_eiDwCypxZ0qE_HgrWpZ7FFsfbnYEXAMaOKZVSGca1fYkxz6jDFZdxIda6zefVjxb3ZYQojVzV1N6qgAjSDMEWlZSDtdMDp-lf3wyN1MpUmCpAIjxhhFwAeiBzmkNs_a9y1fQ6BVHo/s200/attic03.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Heavy polyethylene is placed over and between the ceiling joists (if no air/vapour barrier is present), being sure that it fits snugly into the spaces and that all joints are overlapped and caulked using acoustical sealant. </p><br /><br /><p>The batts are fitted tightly together between the joists, with care taken to extend the insulation as far as possible over the top of the exterior wall without cutting off the air flow from the soffit vents (insulation stops can be installed between the rafters to keep the vents open). Subsequent layers of batt insulation should be run in opposite directions, to help reduce heat loss through the joists and joist spaces. </p><br /><br /><p>If loose-fill insulation is used, it can be poured or blown into place, and a rake or screed board used to level it off. </p><br /><br /></blockquote><br /><br /><br /><h3>Installing Batt Insulation</h3><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxvQ1aIgNCnySJhLPyVDZkaz_tacmPRbzT7Snqa-7F3Q4hk_TSTGV71Dk-zFCUzQ3tIfd_WqWwoRGbvJasazLrBBe72fYlANfz27sCBc-rulMxCGt6q4yCjcmA_0vWOlPjpTDkH2hJ3U/s1600-h/attic06.bmp"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5153178428484560994" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="Batt Insulation Diagram" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxvQ1aIgNCnySJhLPyVDZkaz_tacmPRbzT7Snqa-7F3Q4hk_TSTGV71Dk-zFCUzQ3tIfd_WqWwoRGbvJasazLrBBe72fYlANfz27sCBc-rulMxCGt6q4yCjcmA_0vWOlPjpTDkH2hJ3U/s200/attic06.bmp" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><blockquote><br /><br /><p>Batt insulation is relatively simple to install, and is effective if care is taken and a few simple rules are followed. </p><br /><br /><ul><br /><li>Butt the ends of the batts together as snugly as possible.<br /><li>The first layer of insulation should fill the joist space completely, so that the second layer can run perpendicular to the first, preventing heat loss through the joists.<br /><li>Ensure that subsequent insulation layers sit tightly together, and that no air gaps exist between them.<br /><li>The insulation should be extended over the top plates of exterior walls, and insulation stops used to prevent it from blocking air flow from soffit vents.<br /><li>Irregular shaped spaces/gaps should be insulated with custom cut pieces or loose fill insulation.<br /><br /></li></ul><br /><br /></blockquote></blockquote>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0